wantahertzdonut

It looks like it's missing something from the front end in that side shot. Then again I don't like the new Mustang anyway, mostly because of the back.

I got my control valve from Autozone, was about $150 if I remember correctly. I like my roller idler arm. I have power steering so I don't notice any easier movement, but I do enjoy the fact that I eliminated another point of slop in the steering system.

I have the GW Del-A-Lum bushings and shackle kit in my car, and it definitely makes the car feel more solid. I also have 5-leaf springs, so the ride is stiff but not harsh. A word on the GW bushings, installing them is a pain. You'll probably need to press them in. Also, if you get new springs, order them without bushings if you're able to. Most of all, be absolutely certain of the clocking of the grease fittings, especially the ones that go in the frame rail. If they're off, you'll never get them to move into a better position and you'll never reach the fitting with your grease gun.

Chances are it's an American driving the car. I think they have the freedom to put whatever sticker they want on their car. :smile:

At least you got on the CC dispute now. When I got screwed over by JMC Motorsports it was too late to dispute the charge. From my understanding, when you dispute a charge the CC company will get their money from the seller and get it back to you after they put significant pressure on the seller to come to an agreement.

2003 Lexus IS300 Sportcross, one of less than 1800 SportX's Long story behind getting this car, but it took me over 2 years to find one that wasn't outrageously overpriced, riced, or wrecked. 1996 Subaru Legacy Became the beater since it was free from my parents. I got it literally the day I left to pick up the SportX. If only it were offered to me a month sooner, I'd have a lot more money in my bank account! 2005 Suzuki SV650 From April-October I ride this to work provided it's above 40F outside. It saves a lot on gas and makes my short, but infuriating commute tolerable. 2000 Suzuki SV650 A beater for track use only. I bought it as a basketcase and gave it a going over, built the fork, added a stage 1 jet kit, exhaust, K&N filter, new tires, 520 chain converstion, and removed all the lights and any extra junk I didn't need.

Mine lifted nearly 3" when I installed them. I've since cut 3/4 coil out, and will need to cut more but I'm waiting till I put my new wheels on so I don't go too low and rub the body. I also dropped my UCA's 1 3/4".

I'd sell you mine but I'm afraid my price goes above your budget!

I think they only do the thorough inspection on a car with a salvage title. Maybe since the "car" has been "off the road" for some time he may have to get that inspection done as well, but it's doubtful. As for VIN swapping, I'd rather see a rebody than a heavily rotted out shell get stitched back together. Think about what would be safer to drive in?

As it says, I'm looking for a set of shorty headers for a 1970 with a 351W. My long tubes are making life tough for my cable clutch conversion. Let me know what you have and a price.

Well, if it's still around you can buy it then! I would be surprised if I got any serious offers right now.

Well, if it's still around you can buy it then! I would be surprised if I got any serious offers right now.

Some photos

Some photos

I have my 1970 Mach 1 up for sale as I'm leaning toward getting something newer, or something with an open roof. Plus I'd like to do some mods that I'd prefer not to do to an original Mach. My car: 1970, 351W (bored to 355) with Edelbrock 4bbl carb/intake. Engine rebuilt with about 6000 miles, forged internals, 10:1 compression. I figure it's good for about 275hp, it doesn't have a super wild cam. FMX auto, new interior 4 years ago. Has a Grant steering wheel but came with an rim-blow wheel that goes with the car. That needs to be rebuilt. Red/black with black interior. Fold down rear seat. Everything inside is new except the sail panels and the carpet on the back of the rear seat. Paint is driver quality, has some chips, but the hood was repainted beautifully 4 years ago with stripes under the clear coat. I replaced the 3.00 open with a 3.25 open and upgraded to 31 spline Superior axles. I have a 3.50 posi that needs rebuilt that goes with the car. I started building the car for autocross and replaced the front and rear suspension. The front has Global West tubular upper and lower control arms, 1.75" UCA drop, Mustangs Plus 620lb springs (1" drop), Opentracker roller spring perches, Rosehill Performance solid adjustable strut rods, TRW sway bar end links, and new inner/outer tie rod ends with Global West solid adjustable tie rod sleeves. I have a Flaming River gearbox with about 1000 miles on it and an Opentracker roller idler arm. Car has power steering. The rear has Mustangs Plus 5-leaf reverse eye springs that I fitted with Global West Del-A-Lum bushings. The car came equipped with a rear sway bar which is removed because the GW bushings make it unnecessary. I replaced the weatherstripping 2 years ago. I also put new taillight bezels (the good ones made from original Ford tooling), and a new honeycomb panel. I have new boomerang mouldings that I haven't put on yet, but come with the car. This car came from CA and has no rust. It's been painted a few times and that's it. About the worst thing is the front valance is a bit beat up and I had planned on making an airdam for it but I'm losing interest in doing that. This is not an A/C car. It also has a casette player that someone mounted sometime back. Car has power steering and power brakes, but they're drums. I will include Mustang Steve Cobra caliper mounting brackets, rotors, and calipers. I'm selling outright for $22,000 or best offer. I'd like to trade for a completed 69/70 vert plus cash. I much prefer one with a stick. Engine is irrelavent, but the car has to be solid and rust free. I'm at the point where I'm not too interested in restoring a car. I'm also interested in trading for an 03-04 Cobra vert. I'd trade straight across for a low mileage example. I'll post pictures when I get home this evening. If you're interested, you can call me at 440 309 6401. My name is Jim. I'm outside of Cleveland, OH. My phone is off from 8-4:30 eastern, M-F. If I don't answer, leave a message with a phone number I can reach you at. Please please please don't send me text messages, I'll just get angry.

I have my 1970 Mach 1 up for sale as I'm leaning toward getting something newer, or something with an open roof. Plus I'd like to do some mods that I'd prefer not to do to an original Mach. My car: 1970, 351W (bored to 355) with Edelbrock 4bbl carb/intake. Engine rebuilt with about 6000 miles, forged internals, 10:1 compression. I figure it's good for about 275hp, it doesn't have a super wild cam. FMX auto, new interior 4 years ago. Has a Grant steering wheel but came with an rim-blow wheel that goes with the car. That needs to be rebuilt. Red/black with black interior. Fold down rear seat. Everything inside is new except the sail panels and the carpet on the back of the rear seat. Paint is driver quality, has some chips, but the hood was repainted beautifully 4 years ago with stripes under the clear coat. I replaced the 3.00 open with a 3.25 open and upgraded to 31 spline Superior axles. I have a 3.50 posi that needs rebuilt that goes with the car. I started building the car for autocross and replaced the front and rear suspension. The front has Global West tubular upper and lower control arms, 1.75" UCA drop, Mustangs Plus 620lb springs (1" drop), Opentracker roller spring perches, Rosehill Performance solid adjustable strut rods, TRW sway bar end links, and new inner/outer tie rod ends with Global West solid adjustable tie rod sleeves. I have a Flaming River gearbox with about 1000 miles on it and an Opentracker roller idler arm. Car has power steering. The rear has Mustangs Plus 5-leaf reverse eye springs that I fitted with Global West Del-A-Lum bushings. The car came equipped with a rear sway bar which is removed because the GW bushings make it unnecessary. I replaced the weatherstripping 2 years ago. I also put new taillight bezels (the good ones made from original Ford tooling), and a new honeycomb panel. I have new boomerang mouldings that I haven't put on yet, but come with the car. This car came from CA and has no rust. It's been painted a few times and that's it. About the worst thing is the front valance is a bit beat up and I had planned on making an airdam for it but I'm losing interest in doing that. This is not an A/C car. It also has a casette player that someone mounted sometime back. Car has power steering and power brakes, but they're drums. I will include Mustang Steve Cobra caliper mounting brackets, rotors, and calipers. I'm selling outright for $22,000 or best offer. I'd like to trade for a completed 69/70 vert plus cash. I much prefer one with a stick. Engine is irrelavent, but the car has to be solid and rust free. I'm at the point where I'm not too interested in restoring a car. I'm also interested in trading for an 03-04 Cobra vert. I'd trade straight across for a low mileage example. I'll post pictures when I get home this evening. If you're interested, you can call me at 440 309 6401. My name is Jim. I'm outside of Cleveland, OH. My phone is off from 8-4:30 eastern, M-F. If I don't answer, leave a message with a phone number I can reach you at. Please please please don't send me text messages, I'll just get angry.

Lol, well after seeing a friend installing a 4.6 in a 69, I can tell you it's no easy task! I have long tube headers right now and just some generic mufflers, true dual exhaust all the way out. Engine is a 355W, nothing too radical. I figured I'd need to get an X-pipe anyway, and I'll check into the Spin Tech and Dr. Gas mufflers Brian mentioned.

My car sounds rather wimpy and needs an upgrade. I start it and it reminds me of a Model T. That won't do. I know what I want, but I don't know how to get it. I'd love for it to sound something like the GTx1 in this video. I also want to make it side exit exhaust. But I don't know what sounds come from what mufflers and need some pointers. Basically I want loud and smooth, not the typical blattyness you get from a big block and I'd like to avoid the watery sound that every V8 mustang sounds like. So does anyone have any recomendations what what I should be looking for, and better yet know where I can hear a sound clip of it? Or for that matter, is there a website that has sound clips on different cars? I've been around youtube but I don't even know what to look for.

They don't give up because there are still people buying into these scams every day. Just watch craigslist, and all throughout the day I see things like "2005 BMW 3 series, $6500". Either they're phishing for emails or actually getting people to wire them money. In any case there are still plenty of dumbasses out there throwing their hard-earned money away.

I bought a car with zero rust on it, but I paid over $15k for it. I've seen people pay $8k for a basketcase. I guess it depends on what you're willing to get and how far out of your realm you're willing to go. With that said, "rust free" means different things to different people. To me it means solid, complete, untouched, original sheetmetal that needs NO metalwork. To others, "just a little rust" is different than rotted out. To me they're the same. A car that required patching is NOT rust free. So yes, one can go out west, travel thousands of miles to look at cars, only to find the jackass selling the car thinks that because the major rot has been covered up with 5 gallons of bondo, it's "rust free". Not many people are willing to take that risk, or have the time, or the resources. Some just don't want to bother. THAT'S why people don't scour the West for cars so much.

I'd like to see this $7k rust free fastback. Sure the economy is bad, but nobody is letting cars go for that little.

http://www.lazlographics.com/GT500KR.html 1)Click link 2)Read story 3)Cry

Right on, thanks for digging that up! It's even funnier than I remember. So if it's not supercharged, what's that whine? The a/c? lol

Does anyone have a copy or link to that weirdo drifting around a building in an unfinished supercharged 69/70 fastback, then at the end he starts hitting himself over the head with a shovel? It came up as part of a discussion a while back and I can't find it to save my life. Anyone have a lead, or better yet a copy they could email me?

I replaced the front and rear suspension and steering this past winter. I went with all aftermarket stuff. Front: Global West Tubular UCA's $580 GW Tubular LCA's $380 Dazecars Roller Spring perches $180 Rosehill Performance Adjustable Strut Rods $200 KYB GR2 Shocks $44 TRW Poly Sway Bar Bushings $20 Mustangs Plus 620lb 1" lowering springs $90 Global West Solid Tie Rod Sleeves $45 Rear: Mustangs Plus 5-Leaf Reverse Eye Springs $220 KYB GR2 Shocks ~$40 Global West Rear Shackle Kit $200 Steering: Flaming River Steering Gearbox $400 Opentracker Roller Idler Arm $90 Inner/Outer Tie Rods $I can't remember, but they were under $100 for everything Power Steering Switch $125 from a friend, they're about $150 from Autozone I'm pretty happy with everything. My power steering valve needs to be adjusted but everything is damn solid. It was a lot of money and probably overkill but the difference in driving is well worth it. I am still considering upgrading to R&P if I decide to keep the car, and may even go with a 3-link in the back.