wantahertzdonut

SFC's are sold.

Links are fixed, apparently you can't post the links you get from your CL admin page. Not sure on who made the SFC's. I bought them from a friend a few years ago, I can ask him if he knows. To my knowledge they aren't stamped with anything but I'll take a look when I get home tonight.

Selling the remainder of my Mustang stuff before I move. I have a brand new 1970 standard grille and weld-in subframe connectors. Parts are located in Cleveland, OH. Asking $80 for the SFC's and $100 for the grille, but I'm open to offers. Ads are updated. Also added a link to my 351W roller block that I forgot to include in the original post. Grille Subframe Connectors 351W Block

I don't know much about them other than there's always a bunch at the weekly cruise-in. That and if you punch it, they're quick to swap ends if you're not ready for the rather blistering acceleration. If I built one of these, I'd look more at the FF Daytona Coupe. I've never seen one on the road or online. That may be for good reason, but I think they're pretty neat looking and might be a little more "practical". But I'd really rather have a FF GTM, but I'm getting way off subject.

I relisted earlier this week, auction ends Tuesday night (10/4) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200657619768&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

I cleaned up the description a bit. I will relist Tuesday if the auction doesn't yield a sale, but I will end early for anyone who shows up and chooses to buy outside of Ebay.

No problem with that here. Car has been relisted. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200646655804 I'd really like to get this out of my garage.

No problem with that here. Car has been relisted. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200646655804 I'd really like to get this out of my garage.

I relisted the car on Ebay. Here's the link. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649&item=200642018182&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMESELX%3AIT

I relisted the car on Ebay. Here's the link. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649&item=200642018182&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMESELX%3AIT

2003 Lexus IS300 Sportcross (it's a wagon, it's extremely rare) 2003 Suzuki SV650 (summer DD) 2000 Suzuki SV650 (trackday bike) 1996 Subaru Legacy (beater)

2003 Lexus IS300 Sportcross (it's a wagon, it's extremely rare) 2003 Suzuki SV650 (summer DD) 2000 Suzuki SV650 (trackday bike) 1996 Subaru Legacy (beater)

That looks a lot like the Global West coilover setup. (also not cheap)

Get a Tremec 5 or 6 speed unless you want an automatic.

I also went from an FMX to Tremec TKO600 and wouldn't have it any other way. I was building my car for autocross so there's no room for an auto there. It also make for more fun driving on winding roads, which is about all I do with my car. I am also the type of person who would have every car with a stick if I were able to. I also ride a motorcycle in stop-and-go traffic to and from work every day. Shifting is second nature to me.

Lots of photos here Car is located in Cleveland, OH 1970 Ford Mustang Mach 1. Original RUST FREE sheet metal car from California. Never has seen snow, salt, and has been kept dry in the 6 years I've owned it. I built this car to be a great driving road car that loves to corner. It retains its original 351 Windsor engine and has about 9000 miles on a rebuild. The transmission is a 5-speed Tremec TKO600 manual that was brand new at time-of-install. I have the rest of the original drivetrain boxed up. The original FMX automatic transmission had about 7000 miles on a rebuild before I swapped it out. I used all new components and a cable actuated clutch. The only used part is an aluminum drive shaft from an Ford Police Interceptor. I replaced the radiator with a large aluminum unit rated for up to 500 horsepower. The suspension has been completely upgraded with brand new name-brand components. The front end features Global West tubular upper and lower control arms, Opentracker roller spring perches, Rosehill Performance solid adjustable strut rods, KYB GR2 shocks, Mustangs Plus 620lb lowering springs, and TRW tie-rod ends and sway bar links. The rear suspension has 5-leaf reverse-eye springs and Global West spring shackles with serviceable bushings. The car is equipped with power steering and has a Flaming River steering gearbox, Opentracker roller idler arm, and Global West solid tie rod adjustment sleeves. These are all a tremendous improvement over the original design. The body is original sheet metal and is RUST FREE. The hood and front valance have been repainted recently and show very well. The rest of the car has been resprayed in the past and shows signs of wear, and I've touched up any large chips to the best of my ability. It shines up very well. I would call it a 5-footer. The interior was new as of 2005. There is a fold-down rear seat that came from the factory. The sail panels have not been replaced and are worn. I added a 13" Grant steering wheel. I have the original rim-blow wheel in a box. The only thing on this car that doesn't work is the horn. I have not been able to trace the problem. I replaced the steering column harness but to no avail. I don't know if there is a broken wire somewhere or if the problem lies in my steering wheel adapter. The car has power drum brakes and I will include a kit to mount the front 13" brake rotors from a 2003/4 Mustang Cobra. I will also include brand new rotors, calipers, and mounting brackets. Installing this setup will require 17" or larger wheels. Other extras include a new-in-box grille and extra misc. trim pieces. I also have a Marti report and a reproduction door tag. I'm asking $23,000 or best offer. I'm eager to get this out of my garage for other things.

I had the same problem. Here's mine with 620 springs with 1" drop And after I cut 3/4 coil out What I want to know is how you guys get the rear so low with mid-eyes. I have reverse eyes and it still sits up higher. Mine are 5-leaf springs, what does everyone else have?

I think he's talking about only having a pipe exiting in front of the rear wheel, not running the length of the rocker panel then dumping like a Shelby Cobra. Dave- You may want to consider running an X pipe then going out of the car that way. I don't have any tech on it, but I think having a crossover of some sort helps if you're running straight pipes. Plus exiting at an angle looks better than just going straight out the side in my opinion.

No worries!

My steering box should be ok since it's a new Flaming River unit, but I did read their section about control valves (where I think the problem lies) and the mention needing the proper tension on the centering spring which I will need to check into. I don't think mine is rusted since it's only a couple years but there's always the chance it wasn't rebuilt correctly. The bummer is the make no mention of the tension setting of this spring. Does anyone know what it's supposed to be? I should check it, but it seemed to be in good shape when I had it apart when I did my trans swap last summer. In the event that it's bad, who sells good replacement units?

I would like a crossflow radiator since I plan on building a high HP stroker down the road (if I keep the car). I would like the outlets to be on opposite sides since that's what the car is using now. I'm a little annoyed with Summit's catalog since I searched for a 1970 radiator and didn't notice the configuration. If I keep this radiator, can I simply get 1969 hoses and use it or is there more to it than that?

What exactly are you trying to remove? You will need a tie rod puller to remove any of the tie rod ends, and you'll also need it to remove the pitman arm and idler arm from the drag link.

Funny. I replaced everything in my front end and my steering is still sloppy and loose at the center. The car will wander and needs to be corrected when I come out of a turn. It's driving me crazy because I hate driving like that. I know there is some sort of adjustment in the power steering control valve under that steel cover on the outer end of the unit. Can anyone tell me how to set it? It's annoying me enough to put the car up for sale.

I've been going nuts trying to get an aluminum crossflow radiator that will go right in my car. Currently it's a bolt in, and I mistakenly ordered the Be-Cool unit Maxum96 had thinking it would be a direct fit piece. Of course it's not so I returned it to Summit. Then I ordered the same unit BuckeyeDemon ordered, and it's not even a crossflow unit as advertised! Seeing the ports are on the same side will require different hoses as well. Is there an advantage to having the ports on the same side? Does anyone out there make a crossflow aluminum radiator that I can bolt in, or do I need to buy the saddle mounts as well?

I didn't know this was available in the US yet, awesome!