therebel
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Posts posted by therebel
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I have the trim pieces that go around the rear window. Is that what you need. I have a lot of other trim pieces too but they don't look like the picture.
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I'll go dig through the parts pile but it will probably be this weekend before I get a chance. Is this on the inside or the outside of the car?
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I bought a parts car that had a vinyl top. Can you post a pic of the parts you are needing? Most of the trim was in the trunk so I'm not sure what the parts you need look like.
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Possible trade. I'd like 4.10s but I think I would have to go to a 5 speed then and I'm up in the air if I want to go that route. I only put a couple hundred miles on my gears before I parked the car to start a restoration.
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I have a 355 with a powertrax lock rite locker
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Did you get one? Let me know. I think I have one if you still need it.
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I have two sets if the other posters don't find theirs to be working.
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I run a red top in my old tractor and pickup. I heard somewhere that they hold up to vibration better than a regular battery. My tractor sits for months so they at leat mine are holding their charge. For my DDs I like NAPA, Die Hard and then Wal-Mart batteries. Of course there are a different batteries for different purposes. For a DD any battery should be fine but for competition you'll want to look for something smaller and more durable than a regular battery or red top optima.
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I'm in the process of drilling out the spot welds on my parts car to remove the rear quarters and trunk. So far the welds have been in the same place on both my cars. The weld and sealant manual was a good reference but not everything was in the same spots showed in the manual. I'd go with every 1" like posted above.
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I found a parts car with good quarters. I drilled all the spot welds and took the complete quarter out of the donor and my car. It was a lot of work but I feel I can get it back to together better that cutting a straight line for a skin. Plus there is some awesome information on this site.
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I assumed it was an aftermarket tach and not an OEM. However, I didn't know that about the OEM either so I learned something today. I wonder if the same issue could occur with an aftermarket tach. So far I haven't had an issue but I'd hate to burn up my MSD box.
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+1Whatever you do, don't plug the tach into the MSD tach output without either converting the tach or installing an adapter.
Interesting, why not?
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I've had good luck with Holley double pumpers from mild to wild engines.
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My 6al had a place to plug the tach wire in. I didn't have to use an adapter.
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They also sell aftermarket back up sensors the are activated off you back up lights and have their own buzzer. You'll have to come up with a way to mount the sensors though.
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Disc brakes
AC
Power steering
Electronic fuel injection
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The way Sportsroof69 describes it is exactly the way to do it. You should never have to adjust hydraulics on a running motor.Why? I've seen professional racers do it that way and I had a service book that explains using the process as well. I don't remember the exact reasoning but I think it said something about not all lifters being equal so sometimes a little fine tuning was required.
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Have you considered a Powertrax lock right? That's what I run and have been happy with it. I bought a new one on ebay for a steal and have be pleased. I was a little worried because Richmond's sight says it aggressive and noisy but I really don't notice it when cornering but the locks up pretty good in a straight line.
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For routine maintenance adjustment on a running motor; Pull the valve cover, start the engine. Back the nut off until you here a slight ticking noise and then turn the nut in just till the noise stops. Or turn the the nut in on any of the rockers that are already ticking before backing the nut off. DO NOT turn the nut in anymore than just enough to stop the ticking noise.
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What's you plans for the car? DD, canyon carver, Street Strip?
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I do have them but I'm not mad at them anymore so I'm probably keeping them.
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Do your self a favor and power the headlights off a relay. Your old wiring will thank you and it is much safer. You can buy the relays, wire, and terminals from NAPA for under $25. Also, if you want some really bright high beams, run a Wagner 4049 bulb. They are a tight fit but its the same sealed beam used in KC day lighters and they really light up the road.
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How's continuity between the gauge wire and the printed circuit board?
coupe parts car
in Cars for Sale / Wanted
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Also the AC compressor and bracket along with the whole power steering setup go with the car. The rear has 2.79 gears and it was a 302 car.