Lil John SVT

I have pics but can't post them from my phone.

I started doing a little work on my car. I started removing the vinyl top. At the top corner of the rear glass on the drivers side I have a rust hole. About 1 1/2 x6 inches long. It's to the point where it goes thru the body lines of the roof around the edge. I want to cut the rust out and replace it with a patch, preferably a piece off of another coupe. Trying to bend and get the radius and bends right would be very hard. Any body knows where I can get a piece to patch the rusted out spot? I found one car but they wouldn't sell me the piece, even though the car is rotted to nothing. Thanks.

Got you. I think I'm gonna chockostang and get a rebuilt box and control valve and go from there. Thanks for all the advice.

Well now in confused. I was going to get a rebuilt steering box. Now I don't know. The car won't be a daily driver, maybe once or twice a month. But I don't want to fight keeping the car on my side of the road.

I'm just trying to get the car where I can drive it. Right now I have almost a half a turn on the steering wheel of play in the steering. I've tried to tighten the box up but it made no change. It's impossible to keep it on the road. And the more it sits the more I lose intrest in it. The reason I wanted to go with a rack and pinion is because of I get the steering box rebuilt and then there's another issue then that'll add up to the same or more than a r&p set up. And I don't know from personal experience, but I heard even with all new steering components on our cars there's still play and wandering in the steering. Just trying to do it once and be done with it.

I've been researching for some time and trying to get some advice. My 69 coupe has power steering from the factory. But there's so much at in the steering til it can't be driven safely. There's ton of play. I tried to tighten the box and it's not helping at all. I checked underneath and it all seems tight when turned. I don't feel like dealing with trying to get the factory steering back to normal. I rather go with a rack and pinion and be done with it. Should I go with a power rack and pinion or go with a manual? Where's a best place to order one? I know you get what you pay for, but I also know some pieces are overpriced by name. Not looking for the cheapest way out but not trying to build a show car either. Thanks.

I figured I was to far invested in it already. I don't feel like parting it out. To much hassle. It's taking up to much room and just sitting there. Gonna weigh my options on it. But I think I might scrap it.

I'm debating on selling my 1969 coupe. Trying to see if I can get my money back or how much loss I'll take. Too much loss and I'll park it behind the shop until I have time or just keep it. Here's the rundown, Interior, all original, but will need restored. Dash pad, seat covers, carpet, package tray. Headliner is in good shape. Dash lights don't work. But running lights, headlights, and brake lights work. Exterior, needs panel replacement. Needs floor board replacement. Hood has front lip damage, but can be repaired. Doors have rust on lower corners. Fenders have rust on the bottoms. Passenger fender has dents in it but is repairable. Both quarters need work. I don't think full replacement though. The taillight sheetmetal needs replacing, has damage from previous wreck. Vinyl top needs replacing. All glass is good. Door and quarter glass needs to be glued back in. Tires, they are dry rotted. Still can get around but I wouldn't trust them. Chrome mag wheels but they are rusty. Drivetrain, runs perfect and transmission works great. Has a 351w with a C4. Originally came with a 250 I6. Power steering needs rebuilding. A lot of play in it. Brakes work, non power. Was original a/c car. All the a/c stuff is there. But during the engine swap they put a newer compressor on the motor. Don't know if it works or not. I installed a brand new gas tank and sending unit. This goes with the car, all are brand new, new lower door hinge, chin spoiler, floorboards to replace the rusted portions, new wheel brake cylinders, battery tray and hold down, hood lip chrome replacement, rear valance, new fan shroud, and a few other minor odd and ends. I have around $5,000 invested right now. So I was thinking of just trying to get my money back. Does this price seem to high? The car is in great shape. Not a total rust bucket by far.

Which r&p is a good replacement for our 69's? I'm leaning towards this instead of throwing money into the stock steering and not have the sloppiness disappear.

My steering has tons of slack. Haven't had tine to track down what's wore on it. But I do know that if my steering is centered, it's hard to turn the wheel. I have p/s also. After you get past the binding part of the center it turns easy. I'm thinking the p/o tried to take some of the slack out of the steering thru the box and messed something up.

Yeah ill take some pics. According to my code on the engine block, my car was originally a I6, my motor was out of a 1979 Lincoln. It's confusing to try to figure out what they done.

I have a serpentine belt set up on my car. Previous owner did it. I like the looks. But it has some issues. The alternator is very close to the battery. The upper radiator hose has to bend like crazy to clear the tensioner. And it rubs the tensioner. I have a 351w in my car. So I don't know what year belt set up they used.

My car had been wrecked before. It was hit in the rear drivers side. The taillight panel is bent, so it'll have to be replaced. The rear of the quarter panel was reworked and bondo'd. I'm going to replace the taillight panel because its not right. They bent it back into place but its all bent out of shape. My question is this, I want to replace the damaged area of the quarter panel. From the wheel well forward is perfect metal. It's only the back half that's damaged. Is it a good idea to cut and replace the panel midway of the wheel well? I was thinking of cutting on the highest part of wheel well arch, then cut to the body line and then to the back. Any suggestions.

I took my steering box cover off and packed it with grease. Took forever to get the top back back on. Now when the steering is in the center it's very hard to turn, then when you get it off center it's easy. Makes you jerk the wheel trying to hold it straight. I have no clue why it's like that. I tried adjusting the screw on top of the box and it has no effect. And there's no play in the box. The play must be in the various components. It has a new power controller, or whatever it's called. The part with all the hoses going to it. If I have to sink a lot of money in it to get it safe to drive, not in both lanes, I might invest in a rack and pinion. And I don't have any signals or dash lights, so that's another issue I'm gonna have to deal with.

Well after reworking the brakes and other issues I took the car out for a drive today. It was a handful to say the least. They have play in the steering, about 3-4 inches both ways. This makes it impossible to keep on your side of the road. The car is all over the road. So I'm going to see what's wore in the steering linkage or look into a rack and pinion. I know a rack and pinion is outrageous, but after today I won't drive the car much. Brakes, they work ok. The front drivers side locks up and let's go when stopping. I'm thinking it needs adjusting. But the motor and trans worked perfectly. I know it's gonna take a while to work out the kinks but it was a good drive non the less. Now I have to dig into the wiring and figure out some issues. We found the last owners of the car, they said its been parked in their garage since 1998 and has not moved. I'm happy. Just ready to take it for a cruise.

Well I put a battery in my car. Got headlights and tail lights. No dash lights, no signals. I can see a light around the key switch when the light switch is pulled out to the park light position. When I pull it out to the headlight position it goes out. Where to start looking for issues? The fuses are all good. I don't see any cut wires. Everything seems good.

Yeah after thinking about it I bought 4 new ones.

Well I tried to flush my brake system. I have no brake pedal plus the fluid smells horrible. Well I soaked all the bleed screws in penetrant and tried to break each one. 3 of them won't move, they want to break off. The 4th one turns very little then locks up. Any thing I'm missing here? I guess I'll have to change all the cylinders if I can't get them to open.

Might have one. I just bought a 69 coupe and they had 3 radios in the trunk. Not really sure what they are. I haven't been home since I got the car. Ill let you know as soon as I get home. Cover shipping and its yours.

Yeah I agree. The ornament looks weird. Maybe if was a imitation scoop or something. But to me they look backwards on the car. Both my quarter panels are good. So I'm not chopping them off just to remove the pieces. I'm probably gonna cut them out and weld in a patch panel.

That's a nice looking car. I have a coupe but I like those body styles. I seen in your signature you have a 2003 Lightning. Same here!! #3450 white, fully built, Whipple, and every possible bolt on.

I've been thinking of doing away with the side ornaments when I do my body work. I like the scoops that go there. But I wonder how they look with nothing there. What you think? I've looked for pics without them and there aren't many. And I've seen some with the scoops in there place, but I'm not sure what year or model they came off of. Just looking for ideas basically.

I'm looking for the a/c heater face plate. Not sure if the faceplate seperates or its made together. I have the controller, I just need the face plate.

Well I got to looking more into the car. Found the radio bezel that was removed from the car. I noticed that the a/c and heater control face panel is missing. Knobs are still there and it still functions. I looked around and I can't find a face plate anywhere. I looked on eBay and they only list the completed assembly. Is this the only way to get one?

Is it for a auto or manual?