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stangman69

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Everything posted by stangman69

  1. Pair posted up on FB Marketplace in Wilkesboro NC…
  2. NC is starting to revolt. An attorney I know is working with reopennc to well, reopen NC. Of course the local media is hosing it and seriously skewing the reporting. A local church is planning to hold services this Sunday and has sent a letter to the County Commissioners and Governor's office indicating their intent and requesting freedom from arrest and prosecution. I agree with the prior comments and think this has been overblown and it hasn't been by accident. /nate
  3. @Rich Ackermann - would I not be able to retain the factory proportioning valve and add an adjustable block to the rear line? That's what I've done and while I don't have any road time yet, I'm at a perfect time to fix my mistake if what I've done won't work... Thanks, Nate
  4. @Vicfreg - I'm running the same brake calipers you are although my rotors aren't drilled / slotted. How do you think the pedal would / will feel w/o power boost? I'm running a Baer-branded master that @Shaun hooked me up with that looks exactly like the one you've got shown there with the lines on the PS. I saw where you'd swapped to an Explorer MC with the Ranger reservoir to switch the lines to the DS, I'd like to do the same. @Machspeed - @Vicfreg is meh on responding to PMs and that's if you can get into his inbox. I've got his cell and email if you want me to dox him here. hahahah...j/k Vic, jk. Nate
  5. FS Heater only heater box in good original usable condition. Comes w a new (installed but never run) blower motor. Was painted Rustoleum gloss black years ago. You'll need a few case clips, it’s missing a couple. I’ve got a new heater core and possibly some other misc heater related stuff laying around I think...still digging parts out. Make an offer. You pay shipping from 27597. PayPal. Nate
  6. Finished patching the old wiring harness hole and ground it smooth. I’ll touch it with a little putty and it should be good to go. It’s not @latoracing level work but for a novice, I’m pleased. Pretty much done patching random holes in the engine bay and ready for putty and final sanding. Had 3 of my kids running the wire wheel and sand paper and Brillo pads in the interior and once I go over that lightly again, I’ll be ready to wipe that down and paint. I’m paying them $1/hr and offered a bonus for quality of work and efficiency. Best shop rate I’ve been able to find. Ordered my MustangSteve door hinge rebuild kit and brake/clutch pedal bearing kit. Figured while I had the welder warmed up I’d do those too. Waiting for those to arrive. Once I’ve painted the engine bay, inner fenders and interior I’ll get back to putting parts on. nate
  7. Did you use a good quality charging wire and solid crimps and quality heat shrink? Just curious and wondering...with you I'm sure...why that point failed. nate
  8. Just so I understand your routing, since I'm about to embark on this same project myself and have also poured over @Vicfreg and @Mike65 build threads in re tucking the wiring harnesses and AAW... You have a wire running from alternator charge post in to a distribution block in the car somewhere and then from there back through a 175 fuse to the battery itself? Assuming yes, wouldn't it be prudent to fuse the alternator charge line itself to further isolate that particular component in the event of a problem? In addition, of course to fusing any line coming off the battery? Starter would be isolated via the solenoid and not fused (although I've heard of folks fusing the battery to starter line with a large amp fuse with success). Nate
  9. Has anyone built their own dash pad or modified a stocker? I don't like how tall the factory one is and I'd like to slim it up a bit. I've got my broken up old one and have been thinking about trying to fabricate something out of foam and then have it recovered in either leather or vinyl. Thoughts? What should I use to get my shape built up - Great Stuff foam? nate
  10. @lanky - if you need anything, let me know. It was a three hand job to mount the firewall bracket and somewhat annoying to not be able to find a perfectly flat spot but as they allude to in the instructions, there may be a slight over hang. I chose NOT to grind my bracket for clearance. Focus on a straight smooth push action from the edge of the clutch pedal through the mechanism into the bracket - no side load. You'll get what I mean when you start in on the job. Nate
  11. Follow up question - Do I need to use a return spring on the pedal? It seems to have a decent return wo one but wondering if I should slap a spring on there. Thanks!
  12. @RPM - I've got 9 kids...I need a rear seat. ;)
  13. As long as it's not a Mopar, I say build it and drive it. I've got a '54 Chevy 2 door that was my Grandad's waiting for my attention if I ever finish the Mustang. I'm drooling over the Art Morrison GT chassis for that puppy. I told my wife I'd probably have to sell the Mustang to finance building the Chevy and she said I couldn't. LSx motor, 6L80E, etc... My car and what I have in mind...
  14. @RPM - gnarly looking rear seat bar. Me likey.
  15. Vic - https://www.fillernecksupply.com/ sells several different options. I'm trying to figure out whether I like the smooth aircraft style or a Le Mans style better. Leaning toward Le Mans. I'm trying to find something that is 6 or 8 bolts and NOT 12 bolt (too busy IMHO) and fits within the 4.5" flat circle on the stock '69 tail panel. I also want something that flips open sideways and not vertically down or at least gives me the option to try it either way - sideways open or flip down open. Scott Drake makes a pretty good looking Le Mans style flip open that I think would fit and would let me clock it sideways. FillerNeckSupply also sells an inline antisplash back valve (Perko brand...) that fits inside a 2" fuel line. I'm thinking of adapting that to my fuel neck / fuel fill cap mod. /nate PS: Sorry for the hijack. :)
  16. Thanks @69Stanger408 and @Vicfreg and @GSEninja. 'preciate it gents.
  17. Nice looking garage! I very nearly bought a Bendpak 4 post lift last week off craigslist but I realized the garage takeover my wife and I have planned would mean it gets moved out into the weather so I'm holding off. We've planned a 3 car garage build with an apartment over the top in the near future...waiting on architect.
  18. Fortunately for me, my work hasn't been affected by the COVID19 mess. That being said, I've been making progress on stuff around the house with the quarantine. In the past 5 or 6 weeks: Mustang related: I've pulled the lower dash assembly back out and installed the MDL hydraulic clutch pedal kit, decided where the the VintageAir heater box will go, started patching unused holes in the firewall and engine bay as well as a couple other minor sheetmetal tweaks, pulled the front fenders off in prep for re-painting inner fenders, begun prepping interior for full Eastwood Rust Encapsulator paint in light grey, mocked up the engine (Foxbody accessory brackets, etc.), ordered ARP bolts and Global West Shock Tower / Bump stop mounts *BTW GW is closed b/c of this stupid virus. Dang it...), researched the heck out of how I'm going to run the body wiring and I'm sure I'm forgetting something. I scooped up a posi and gears from a forum member and I'm getting close to pulling the trigger on axles, a few more parts for the 8" build and FlexForm leafs. Non Mustang related: Me and the wife and kids planted 10 blackberries, 20 blue berries, 4 cherry trees, 2 pecan trees, 1 nectarine tree and a bunch of ornamental things. We also started in on installing a fenced area for the ducks and chickens. Been a very productive couple weeks. I'm about tired of this quarantine business though and I'm past the point of being worried about this virus. We've got to get back to running an economy or we're going to quarantine ourselves into a depression... Nate
  19. Would you mind reposting those trunk battery wiring and mounting pictures from last year? I’m in the process of laying my trunk mount out and I’d love to see some examples. Thanks, nate
  20. I debated the Ron Francis harness(es) but opted for the AAW option. I got a great deal on a NIB kit off ebay - it was almost half off. I couldn't pass it up. I'm doing some sheetmetal work and paint in my interior and trunk and engine bay before I wire mine. I plan to put the battery and solenoid in the trunk immediately behind the rear seat. I've followed @Vicfreg and @Mike65 as they've also used the AAW harness and have done several similar mods as I'm trying to do. Nate
  21. BTW - the pictures show up when I log in from my mobile device. Weird. That said, nice work! I too like that gas cap. /nate
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