Legion

It is difficult unless you take off the outer cowl panel so you can weld the flange area on the cowl to the top of the inside cowl panel (above fresh air vents). I replaced the entire cowl, but replaced 90% of the front end so those pieces were off any way. I'm not sure if I have any pictures on my build thread (it's been a while since I've posted, need to get some progress photos up). I can look through my pics and see if I have any that may help if your interested.

Not yet. It's off, along with the quarters panels. After removing the quarters, I found some areas on the rear door posts that needed to be repaired. I've been working on that when I have time. I've been working on a backyard project all summer (paver patio, hot tub install, pergola, etc.) that's cut into my time on the car...it's just about done...if the wife would quit adding tasks to the project:nono:. A clear example of scope creep. Once the door post is repaired, we're taking the car to my brothers to media blast the car before the panels go back on. I'll post pics when I get my camera back, my grandaughter thought my Cannon DSLR needed an orange juice bath last week... There's a couple of threads on the forum that explain how to post pictures. If you can't figure it out, PM me and I help you out.

Not yet. It's off, along with the quarters panels. After removing the quarters, I found some areas on the rear door posts that needed to be repaired. I've been working on that when I have time. I've been working on a backyard project all summer (paver patio, hot tub install, pergola, etc.) that's cut into my time on the car...it's just about done...if the wife would quit adding tasks to the project:nono:. A clear example of scope creep. Once the door post is repaired, we're taking the car to my brothers to media blast the car before the panels go back on. I'll post pics when I get my camera back, my grandaughter thought my Cannon DSLR needed an orange juice bath last week... There's a couple of threads on the forum that explain how to post pictures. If you can't figure it out, PM me and I help you out.

Starting to Morph into an Mitsubishi Eclipse with the hatch of a 370Z...

I get it on my iPad now, no changes needed for me.

I get it on my iPad now, no changes needed for me.

Man...how'd she get out of my basement?

Man...how'd she get out of my basement?

Goodguys Rod & Custom in Columbus (about and 1 to 1.25 hours from Dayton) is in July. Over 7,000 Rods, Customs, Classics, Muscle Cars, Street Machines and Trucks thru ’72. It's worth visting.

Not sure if it will help, but here's a pic of the ones I fabbed up. I opted to go without the fresh air vents. The panel on the right in the first picture was my first attempt with the bead roller, the one on the left was the 2nd pass and the one I used. I created posterboard templates of the recessed areas and transferred them to 18g sheet metal, used a bead roller to create the recessed areas and then cutout the holes with an airsaw. As Fastway stated, you could post a wanted add and see if someone will cut them out of a parts car...I couldn't find any at the time and decided to fab them myself. I've been in contact with Dynacorn on these replacement panels for about 3 years. The first year was 'Nope, we ain't making them' to 'It's a future release'. They already manufacture the components because you can purchase the entire side of the car (pillars, inside panels, door post, etc) assembled for about $1,300. Not sure why they won't offer the individual components.

Agreed...

I used the same method when I replaced my rear frame rails. I only replaced the back 1/2 of each frame rail but replaced the transition pan/brace. I had some slight sag when I removed the transition pan...in hinds sit I would have welded a temporary brace between the old frame rails, replaced the transition pan and then replaced the back 1/2 frame rails. I was a little concerned about ratcheting the frame rails together, but I test fitted the tail light panel, trunk drop offs and rear trunk brace and everything lined up rather well.

I made my own inside cowl panels you're referring to. I did two versions, one with the fresh air vent cut out and one without. I opted to go with the panel without the vent cutout as the hinge access holes on the first version didn't turn out to great. I ended up using a bead roller to get the shapes of the cutouts and add some strength to the panel. I believe you can see the progress scattered throughout post 27-40 on my build thread. Not sure if it will help, but thought I'd pass it along.

I was at Goodguys last year in Columbus and stopped by the Borgeson booth and spoke with one of the engineers/reps at the booth. I explained my setup (390 with headers). He told me that the unit they made (this was last year, could have changed) will not work with a big block. I've persused their website and see everything for 6 cyl up to a 351...but no references to a BB. You might want to give them a call.

Man, that color pops!

Very nice!

I'll be reskinning my roof in the coming weeks. I've read a few articles and most people state the fit is pretty decent, with some saying they drop right into place. I would plan on a little cutting and grinding though. Someone mentioned it earlier in another thread I believe, but they did a roof skin replacement on a 68 FB on Musclecar (you can purchase the episode on Amazon or iTunes for $1.99). It doesn't appear to be that difficult...with the exception of drilling out sh&@ loads of spot welds. I think I'm going with the same technique they used on the show...a few welds in the corners and panel adhesive. I'll try and find the link, but someone on another forum completed their roof skin in this manner and was pleased with the outcome. My roof skin comes off this weekend. I'll be removing the quarters along with the roof skin so I can media blast the inner structures and roof bracking this spring. I'll be welding in some additional support to keep the inner quarter bracing from shifting all over the place. I'll take some photos if it will be helpful and let you know how the welding/adhesive combo work.

...I take it you're in the witness protection program:w00t:

yellow tint is the accent that ties it all together...:thumbup1:

A friend of mine is a painter and they wet the floor in their booth since they don't have a down draft setup. I take it you plan on sealing the pastic to the tarp, so wetting down the inside would give you some added insurance.

Here's a pic of one built using 2" pvc and plastic. He said he had less than $300 bucks in it, including the lights. I've also read that you want to place the fans and filters pushing air into the 'booth' and an evacuation hole on the other end, creating positive pressure in the booth. Supposedly it's better for the homemade paint booths to keep bugs and airborne particles out...versus pulling air into the booth through small gaps or holes. It also keeps the overspray from running across the box fan motor. I don't think they cause sparks like the old DC brush motors did, but better safe than sorry. I personally like this one....

Niiiiiiiiiiiceee:thumbup: It's always good to see all that time, hard work, cursing, blood, sweat and tears culminate into a completed project. These types of pics make me want to put down my coffee cup and head to the garage...unfortunately I have to go make the donuts...

Niiiiiiiiiiiceee:thumbup: It's always good to see all that time, hard work, cursing, blood, sweat and tears culminate into a completed project. These types of pics make me want to put down my coffee cup and head to the garage...unfortunately I have to go make the donuts...