RogerC

Get mustangsteve's rebuild kit. I've done mine but they're not on the car yet.
https://mustangsteve.com/product/do-it-yourself-rebuild-kit-69-70/

Get mustangsteve's rebuild kit. I've done mine but they're not on the car yet.
https://mustangsteve.com/product/do-it-yourself-rebuild-kit-69-70/

Dynacorn fender ,the bushings and pin can be replaced unless it has worn into the hinge 

Good afternoon everyone, I’m new here land I like some help on 1970 fastback project
i have purchase the car from a museum in Dubai and the car has “0” rust..it was kept inside and they. Did not refurbish anything 
I just finishing installing a Heidst IRS and I like to run a 300/40/18 wheel …..I heard about the pie cut…anyone here has some pictures on how is done?..

Update
Just noticed it's still listed on Ebay but price is now 90K.
This paragraph from the "dealer" just kills me
Condition: Used Seller Notes: “We represent this vehicle to the best of our ability; however, we strongly encourage all interested parties to come and see the vehicle in person or have a third party inspection. All purchases will be charged a $250 PRE-DELIVERY SERVICE CHARGE*. Additional charges such as sales tax, tag fees, registration fees, government fees, shipping charges, or finance charges may be charged depending on the state you are registering the vehicle and/or having it transported. (*This charge represents costs and profit to the dealer for items such as inspecting, cleaning, and adjusting vehicles, and preparing documents related to the sale.)”    

I don't have any pics to post but I had to create some spacing on the backside of the bulb housings to replace what I cut off and so the bulbs sit right. I made spacers from PVC pipe, attached them to the bulb housings with JB Weld, primed with SEP then sprayed the area with spray-on rubber. They're solidly attached and not going anywhere. The headlight bowls were primed with SEP after completely coated with POR15 then top coated with KBS satin chassis black and the rims were sprayed with the spray-on rubber.

I don't have any pics to post but I had to create some spacing on the backside of the bulb housings to replace what I cut off and so the bulbs sit right. I made spacers from PVC pipe, attached them to the bulb housings with JB Weld, primed with SEP then sprayed the area with spray-on rubber. They're solidly attached and not going anywhere. The headlight bowls were primed with SEP after completely coated with POR15 then top coated with KBS satin chassis black and the rims were sprayed with the spray-on rubber.

Progress is always good no matter how slowly it goes.  It's definitely more progress than I've got done. 

A friend at work bead blasted my headlight buckets for me, he's currently doing my headlight extensions. I found I needed to increase the hole on the backside by almost 3/8 inch to clear the back of the bulb housing.

I also had to trim 3 tabs off the bulb housings, they were larger and didn't match the buckets. Touched up the backside of the bulb housings where I cut off the tabs with POR15 (the backside is metal).

Coated the inside surface of the headlight buckets with POR15. Have to coat the backside then paint. Thinking of coating the rim of each bucket with a couple coats of spray rubber. I'm thinking it might prevent any rubbing of the headlight housing when mounted.

Got my laser engraved blue halo LED push button switches from a supplier in Australia.
Two of the switches are for my VHX Dash, they are momentary push buttons that allow you to change the settings in the speedometer and text display.
Two for the power door locks, One for the interior lights, One for my fog/halo DRL, One for the emergency override - on for my engine cooling fans, and one for the emergency override – on for my trans cooler fans
My power window switches will go where the cigarette lighter is on the console box, working on that next
 
 
 
 for my interior lights

Getting close with my console build.  These are 19mm pushbutton switches with blue halo led backlight.   Plus, cupholder, of course…
 

Working on my console.  Finalized my switch layout, Made my final templates, this is my production version.   I want to order my switches this weekend, should have the council put together in a couple weeks with all the wiring.
Installed my VHS clock on the passenger side dash assembly.

What got me curious is asking 115K for an R code mach 1 and the car is missing some things that might make it worth the price if the car was complete and original. As it is it's just a 69 with a 428 (maybe) and a hodge podge of parts. It might be a legit R code but I think someone threw it together to sell as a rare-ish 69. Hell, for the asking price they could have at least picked-up the right door panels, console top, instrument panel, brake pedal pad, replaced the left kick/vent panel and picked up a shaker assembly. I do have some doubt of it being a real R code, no pic of door plate & no Marti report. There's a distinct lack of supporting information. However, it could have been a basket case project missing a lot of parts and pieced together like I said before.

I would think it should have the deluxe interior (door panels). The rim blow steering wheel is trashed. A lot of overspray, on the white letter tires and is that overspray on the end of the dash pad or just a reflection? Looks like a massive oil leak at the front of engine. Most Mach 1's I've seen have the chrome trim along the rockers. Don't know if that was an option. Good luck getting 115K.

Door panels and console, radio, carb & air cleaner, backup light lenses.

Spoiler is not oriented even close to being correct.  Wires showing under the bottom dash. 

You'd think for $115k it would have at least the one thing that makes it an R code, the shaker scoop. And those door trim panels ain't for a Mach 1.

Finished gas pedal

Your custom clock pod turned out really nice !!
Doug

No, it won't shorten the life, since there is little heat at the semiconductior junction- nothing like an incandescent bulb. Pulsing LEDs is the best way to get them to dim the most.
Yes you are correct that LEDs have a minimum forward voltage to allow current to flow across the junction. Its usually around 1.2v for red, and 3.6v for blue. FYI, We didn't have white until they figured out how to do blue.

I'm not sure this will help, but may give you some ideas:
 

I don't have any pics from doing the left side but when I get around to doing the right side I'll take a few.

Hi all
I'm going to be documenting the entire rebuild. This is my time doing this so be gentle. Haha.
 

Having second thoughts about fog light location. Too low? Maybe rectangular lights in lower opening?

Update:
Working on the R quarter skin, attached with screws at the moment. Need to do some more trimming and fitting. No pics.
Also working on the rh dash panel. Was trying to figure where I wanted to put my clock.

I figured to add a small pod on the right side but it escalated to a symmetrical pod spanning the rh panel.


Primered
Clock to go on right side angled face, visible to driver. Might add a usb charge port on left angled face and a courtesy light on the bottom. Also adding 71 dash emblem on flat and offset to the right. Will probably rivet the pod to the panel when done.


Cut the backside open.

Wet sanded and primered again.

Needs further sanding & primer.