RogerC

Paid for the next tier which has unmetered bandwidth (another $10 a month for a total of $30).  One issue down.  Still need to upgrade the forum software to keep the spam out.  That will be fun for another day/2days back and forth with their support.

I am about to switch the hosting over to amazon web services in the next few days for some bandwidth breathing room.   Then I'll have to work with the forum software customer service to make the upgrades compatible with a new version of PHP so we can finally secure the website away from the bots that have been eating the bandwidth.  The current hosting company has been less than useful unfortunately.

Can the forums, individually or enmasse, be locked, locking all threads and preventing creation of any new threads. I would be ok having everything locked till the issues can be addressed. It might also stop the russian bots completely. I would think the site wouldn't get shutdown but everything would still be viewable. Would that work?

Thanks, the FRPP Hoodpins are around $45.00 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m-16700-a so its a great buy compared to the overseas made pins that scott drake sells. 
I was also thinking flush hood pins with the locks: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/qul-ql-38-lpbp or push-in type https://www.summitracing.com/parts/qul-ql-38-lpbp since Im more in the resto mod category, however, the FRPP seems to be the best one with out cutting too much into the hood. 

Oh. Good news!

Glad to hear that your job is going back to normal for now. 

Well, the deal fell through and I'm still employed as before, for the time being anyhow. Still, I'm holding off on spending any money on the car for now or till I get a warm fuzzy feeling on the security of my job.

Original and old repros are about 9/16", newer repros are about 7/16". Your Repops from 2020 should be 7/16". Photo below is newer Repops vs original.
 
All the manufacturer's of the felt kit I talked to in 2018 (as far as I remember including Steele) had the same smaller diameter. I believe there is only one supplier for the extrusion and all the manufacturers including Steele use the same extrusion. 
Let us know the dimension if/when you buy it from Steele.

Hi Roger, sorry to hear about that.  My guess is that the new owner isn't able to comply with some government requirements, and the current owner is wanting to switch you all over to subcontractors to avoid getting caught up with some contractual barriers that will prevent the sale.  
If they lay you off, they will have to offer you COBRA.   In that case being a 1099 may not be a bad deal. This happened  recently to my wife,  so been through that, and in the end, she became an independent contractor, and it worked out quite well.  
Good Luck!
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Damn. Sorry to hear that, and hope things work out for you. 

I was about to take my block to the machine shop this week but got a swift kick in the nuts at work. Seems the company owner thinks its a good idea to sell my division right before Christmas. This week is chaos as we were told to sign on to the new company as contracted (1099) workers or be unemployed. However they've backtracked on that since most of the factory workers walked rather than sign on as contracted workers and they need the workers to fulfill existing orders, has to do with our CAGE code specified as the manufacturer on .gov contracts. Welders can pick up a job with benefits almost anywhere, why would they do 1099 contract work? Anyhow my livelihood is in limbo for the moment till they figure out the terms of the sale.

Thank you Gents.
A bit about myself.  I am from Detroit originally and have been a Mustang nut since the age of 9...I'm 55 :).  I had a 68 coupe many years ago but sold it.  Now that my boys have graduated college and off the payroll so to speak, I felt it was time to acquire my dream car, a '69 Mach 1 428 R 4 spd.  Well that's not totally true, my true dream car is a '69 Boss 429 but that is not in the cards at the moment.  I now live about 35 miles outside NYC.  I have attached a few pics on my baby.
 
TY for the welcome.
Michael  

#6 SS pan head sheet metal screws, 1-1/2" long, from Ace Hardware.  Used #6 SS washers. Worked well, looks good.

Finally, success.
The Scott Drake doorhandles were supplied with the correct actuators.
I swapped them to my black doorhandles.
Picture below, of the correct, actuators, and the doorhandles.
 

I had both the main dash and the driver side panels finished and painted in  body color. I just put it together.
I have the VHX silver face gauges, with blue backlight. It should be a great look when installed.
 

The issue that is causing the fitment problem it’s not the door handle necessarily, it’s the actuator mechanism.
My original door handle, has a single mounting hole in the center of the doorhandle near the push knob.
So those actuators only have one mounting hole, you can see that in the pictures.
The aftermarket doorhandles have an offset mounting hole, and the actuators have two mounting holes.  The two hole actuator is actually wider than the original, it’s very difficult to fit through the hole in the door.
This actuator is in the picture next to my original, it doesn’t fit properly, I cannot get enough clearance to properly install the door handle.
The last picture is what I believe to be the correct actuator, comes in this case with the Scott Drake, 1969, 1970 doorhandles. It’s much smaller, and has a rounded shape, which allows you to easily insert the door handle and get the proper clearance.  It also has two holes.
 
I ordered a set of these, I’ll let you know how it works out.

 

Thanks for welcoming me RPM. Here’s a few pics.  The interior needs some work as well as the convertible top. I have all winter to tinker with it

I use KBS products.
https://www.kbs-coatings.com/

Works for me...I guess I'm special!

Heads


Picked up an Offenhauser dual plane. I had some recommended machining done, had it cleaned. Painted the heads and intake with Eastwood's ceramic engine paint. I may use this instead of the single plane intake.

Tacked the RH quarter on, has a subtle 2" bumpout.

Finished the wiring in the trunk for the tail lights, backup lights, license plate light, electric fuel pump fuel sender, & installed the tank.

Bots are hitting the site and causing the issues.  I am working with tech support still to try and fix it.  I thought it was already resolved.  There is another issue with upgrading the forum software I need to take care of but it currently crashes the entire forum so I am unwilling to do so until I have ample time to devote to it.  I am hoping to have the bot issue resolved by the end of the week.
Just a little update for you guys.  Bandwidth upgrade would only be a bandaid and not a full solution, so do not feel obligated to donate any more money.  And thanks for your donations so far that should cover the monthly losses for the remainder of the year.

The outer wheelhouse is set 2" outboard. I left a flange of the original quarter to attach the new one to, also bent that flange out at the top to meet the new one better. I pie cut and bent the new quarter in to have a little bulge to it instead of it flattening out. You'll notice the fore & aft upper corners were drawn in as a result. I'll continue working it and if it don't turn out right I'll have to cut it off and start over. When its right I'll do the left.

Heads


Picked up an Offenhauser dual plane. I had some recommended machining done, had it cleaned. Painted the heads and intake with Eastwood's ceramic engine paint. I may use this instead of the single plane intake.

Tacked the RH quarter on, has a subtle 2" bumpout.

Can you post a shot of the engine from the front? That looks like a 351C valve cover in the 1st pic. If it is a 351C and you put a thermostat in it for a 351W, that's your problem.