RogerC

Getting there

Dayton cops blocked them from getting on the interstate saturday. One of the organizers claimed on camera with a reporter they weren't going to go on the interstate, total BS. I live about 5 miles south of downtown in the suburbs. Protest going on right now at Lincoln Park about a mile away, bunch of white 20 somethings.

Woohoo! Missed you all!

As mentioned above, depends on what you'll do with the car. Are you going to drive it regularly or enter it in concours events? Do you have a Marti Report? Is it something special? Or do you want to correct all those things just to be factory correct for your own reasons? I have a friend that builds mopars for the last reason but he does drive his roadrunner to shows regularly. Most of us on here aren't so concerned with factory correct but we're fine to help no matter if you are as others on here are. We all just enjoy these cars in our own way.

Thanks guys I didn't plan to modify the light housings but when I bought the lights it occurred to me that all that space in the housing wouldn't be used and I remember knocking the light socket occasionally. So I took a little diversion from working on engine work. Moving the socket hole to the lower left puts it down and out of the way and without modifying the harness.

Received my LED taillights this week. Sandblasted the bottom flanges and found a bunch of pinholes in one. Started to weld them closed and shortly after decided it was a lost cause. Also decided to modify the housings by hacking off the back and moving the socket to the left side. Don't need that space anyhow with the LEDs in the lens. Plus gain back some trunk space. I need to do a little more cleanup, POR15, then paint. I'll do the other one after I finish cleaning this one. I have new gaskets and hardware also. I started working on the door caps for standard door panels. Removed the interior window weatherstrip, straightened the flange afterwards. Ordered new weatherstrip and lock knob grommets. Have to finish cleaning then paint them. I hadn't taken any pics of them.

Or KBS Rust Seal. I like KBS products more but use both.

Got my replacement grille.

Local newspaper website https://www.daytondailynews.com/news/local/legendary-tipp-city-designer-iconic-ford-mustang-dies/0OuXoHTQ2nYZvRJnQ1qYzI/

Ordered a Drake billet grille from CJPP. It came today. :( Their packaging sucks!

The color of the 67 is growing on me but your 65 is just beautiful.

I wasn't trying to be a dick. I got the impression from your post you didn't have a clue and was suggesting nicely you become familiar with some of the basics. You want cleveland specific, check out http://351c.net/board/ and https://pantera.infopop.cc/ Both are excellent resources and some of the experts are on both.

You should probably look into some sort of mechanics course before you tackle anything significant. Realizing your local community college won't have much of a hands on course in the near future, maybe an online course would be of benefit. I'm saying this only to help cause if you couldn't identify any of these items you probably shouldn't do the work yourself until you get some basic car knowledge under your belt.

Looking at the diagram, the frame rail looks level across the top and tapers slightly on the bottom aft of the bumper mounting till it gets to the steering box mount area where it drops significantly. That slight drop is probably the 1/4 inch difference. Haven't looked at mine lately. I'm sure MTF will have an answer though.

Mach 1 Driver, Just wanted to point out that NC on a schematic typically means "Normally Closed" along with NO = Normally Open. Probably should have picked another term, could confuse others in the future.

Thanks The spacers are drill guides. I attached them with JB Weld. I didn't want to screw them up trying to weld them as they were kinda pricey so I figured they would be fine once the bracket was bolted to the head (7/16-14 bolts). Don't think they're going anywhere. I borrowed the Idea from And this

Finished my coil mount plate Modified my throttle cable bracket for new aftermarket cable.

I'm pretty sure Randall's Racks used 80s GM J car (cavalier, J2000) components. I have a magazine article saved somewhere but I don't recall where.

Mike, never heard of the MasterSeries products before. From their site it sounds similar to POR15 & KBS. I use mostly KBS and Eastwood. I still have some POR15 but I find KBS better and I usually receive my order within 2 days. I want to second Barnett, spray bombs don't cover as well as gun sprayed paint and usually don't provide enough protection. Anytime I've used spray bombs and didn't apply many coats, the finish and protection was short lived. Just not economically feasible.

Making a mount for my coil to attach to the front of the left head. I have to chase one of the weld nuts, got some weld on one of the screws when welding the weld nuts on. Ground the end of the screw off but it still messed up the threads a little. I plan on using SS button head screws instead of the black oxide socket head screws. Also adding 1/2 inch spacers to space the bracket away from the head a little.

I'm not sure the CVF setup will work with my 3G alt as is, could take some modification. We should probably take this off Rich's Build thread.

This is the one I'm looking at. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Ford-351C-Serpentine-Pulley-Conversion-Kit-Alternator-Only-Cleveland-Kit/122465366680?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 Just got a raise and a bonus so I got the money.

I've been looking at CVF for a while for my 351C, been on my ebay watch list for a year or so.

Yup, and I had a 429SCJ & 4 speed for it. It's one of my biggest regrets.

Worked on mounting brackets for the front brake cooling scoops.