RogerC

69 Boss & 70 non-ram air Mach 70 Mach & Boss Can't seem to locate my LeMans stripe info.

What style of stripe are you planning? Single? 70 Boss style? Lemans dual style? The above factory styles have different width dimensions as it progresses front to rear over the car. I have some stripe info but I can't access it till tonight.

That is an old story and there is a danger there because the fuel tank is the trunk floor. There are 3 ways to address it, a direct fit Fuel Safe fuel cell, tank armor (a steel plate fastened to the trunk floor over top of the tank) and a steel plate behind the rear seat replacing the fiberboard. Any one is suffecient or a combination of the 3.

Nice project. Glad to see another coupe project. What are your plans for engine & trans? Rear suspension?

There's also one at the top rear accessed with the door open.

Sounds pretty good. Don't know about performance in the quarter but it should move. Mine has 290 int/ex with 509 lift int/ex with offy 360 intake, 750 vac secondaries, no port work & 12:1 comp. Will be rebuilding before it goes on the road again.

That was my plan several years ago but since I'm doing more extensive modifications now, I have the 2 inner qtr trim panels just laying around.

Mine built 12/9/68, Happy 40th everyone!

I would check all connections against a wiring diagram. Verify the wire colors at each connection. I know its time consuming but until then you don't know for sure its correct. There's a ground connection on the left side top of the lower dash. Sharp car BTW

I would say take measurements off your car before starting or off another car if that area is damaged. Going stiker to striker may not be accurate, they may have been moved at some point and aren't in the same spot from one side to the other. Also, there is a lot of tolerance in these cars. Pick some key points at the doorway on both sides, say top and bottom at both the A-pillars & B-pillars and check dimensions diagonally each side and side to side. That will ensure things are square. The actual numbers may vary from car to car but should be close. If the area is not damaged and your measurements show everything to be pretty much square, I would weld in temporary bracing to make sure nothing moves during the quarter replacement.

where's the "puke" smiley?

I like that it has rounder contours/curves vs the low curvature of more recent versions. Things blend smoother. I like it much better than the later sn95 versions.

You glue it on with weatherstrip adhesive. Don't know about the odd flat seal.

They are 1/4" studs with sheetmetal type thread into the extension just like the rear qtr extensions. Epoxying 1/4" all thread in the holes should work ok. Easy to get to with an extension once the plastic splash shield is removed. The inboard one at the hood opening is accessed through an opening in the fender with the hood open. There's also fender bolts that hold it to the radiator support.

I wouldn't let that stop you. Its only a few screws. It shouldn't take more than about 15 min to get to the bulbs, 5 if you're exprienced.

You may be thinking of Lords Fusor. Sika & Lords both make excellent industrial/automotive adhesive sealers. We use both at work for gluing on & sealing a fiberglass plug over armor and setting the armored glass in armored vehicles. I'm still not sold on using them in structural applications.

Try here: http://www.network54.com/Forum/119419/ Its a 351C forum, they'll be able to help you out.

Tom, Get yourself a wiring diagram, it lists them with a nice picture. I've found it very valuable. Enough so I copied the pages so I don't ruin the book. Sorry, they're not scanned.

I'm currently looking at starting a small business. There is a local organization here called SCORE that is comprised of local business executives who help entrepreneurs with setting up a business. They put on small seminars through the local library branches on developing a business plan, marketing, finances, etc. I'm actually signed up for one next week. It's a confusing and intimidating process. I've attended a basic business seminar already. They also help you with SBA services. Good luck in your venture.

bnickel and I have a similar idea, to replace the 2 upper arms with a single link or torgue arm making a 3 link system. I also want to add a watts link.

rjardy, So as not to confuse you, TCP G-bar = Chris Alston's Chassisworks 4 bar. I keep forgetting they're the same and others know it as G-bar.

I think so. I'm planning on going 3-link myself but haven't decided on the setup yet. I'm leaning towards Lateral Dynamics or Art Morrisson. FYI, Both the guy from LD (can't recall his name) and Chris Morrisson frequent pro-touring.com so if you have any questions, they're available and they've posted some good info regarding their respective products. Also, others on the board have designed their own setups on other car brands. There's a lot of info available for designing your own. I was also thinking about a 3-link based on the Chris Alston Chassisworks 4 bar system using a fabricated 3rd link instead of the 2 top bars.

You're right, the ashtray area was wider and contained the ashtray and lighter. The ashtray itself looks to be the same size to me though. Maybe a photo from the up between the seats would help along with a part number from your ashtray if there's one stamped on it. I have a console laying around and can check mine.

It's kinda hard to tell but it looks to me like the factory ford ashtray only relocated because of the shelby gauge package. If that's the case then any ashtray from a console equipped 69 or 70 should work.

Someone on pro-touring.com got me a contact and i shot them an email.