Brian Conway

Thanks for clearing that up.  https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/69-mustang-clock-knob-removal.587881/  Brian 

Thanks for clearing that up.  https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/69-mustang-clock-knob-removal.587881/  Brian 

Now that's serious.  Is that the 2nd gear scratch/wiggle out there in the distance ?

Probably not someone you'll want to buy a car from.  Just my opinion.  Brian

Might give this guy a call ?  
 

Sorry no buying experience or recommendations.  Still running with the originals.  Please excuse the slight discoloration at the rear wheel.  I'm sure you understand.  Brian

Suggestions ?   Shelby/Arning drop and tire/wheel size are two variables that affect length.  A field measurement from your car would give you a better approximation ?  Upper control arm mounting saddle and the distance to the frame rail mounting area would give you a better idea of over all length.  Brian

Sure, straight out of the 69 Shop Manual.  The one with the added tang, at the lower end, is for the LEFT/DRIVERS  side.  It is needed to avoid crushing the fuel line.  Brian

Yes I use them.  I agree they are a bit of a pain to get positioned.  I do feel using them is saving wear and tear on my suspension parts.  So worth the extra effort.  Brian

Sure, straight out of the 69 Shop Manual.  The one with the added tang, at the lower end, is for the LEFT/DRIVERS  side.  It is needed to avoid crushing the fuel line.  Brian

+1 Brake line is not installed correctly.

+1 Brake line is not installed correctly.

+1 Brake line is not installed correctly.

Stock 69 4 speed shifter ?

Might want to check to see it the cable is all the way in or partially out ? Pictured is the set up for a speedo reducer (drag pack).  The white end of the speedo cable goes into the dash speedometer. Same for all cars.  With enough practice it can actually be accessed from under the dash.  Give it a firm/gentle push and it just might snap into place.  Lucky you ?  Brian

you have chosen wisely.

San Diego craigslist.  NOT MINE.  https://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/pts/d/san-diego-mustang-mach-1-black-seat/6928438997.html

The picture in the 69 owners manual takes away a lot of the mystery. Brian

I run the stock power disc brakes on my 428 car.  Perfectly happy with the performance.  Street or straight line track never a problem.  Only locked the brakes up once and it was the rears.  The skid/slide was slow easy and predictable.  Keeping the cars systems stock/original seems to be the way to go ?  Parts, repairs and instructions are much easier to obtain and work with.  Brian

Could you rotate the engine before you installed the heads ?  Just trying to narrow down the possibilities.  Brian

Make sure to line up the timing marks.

FWIW  The rears on my 69 car are 2.5" clear (fender edge to tire) at the front and 3" clear at the rear.    So not centered on the stock configuration.  Brian

Paint it black.

If the Master Cylinder piston leaked into the Booster then you may have a puddle of brake fluid in the booster?  With the MC removed I would use paper or cloth towels and  dab or wick the leaked brake fluid out of the bladder/diaphragm area.  Nothing further  needs to be done.  If you are not confidant/experienced enough to remove and replace the booster then go no further.  Clean the area, booster and firewall, with cleaner and towels and turn your attention to the MC.  Brian

I have used both of these with no problem.  I run a stock RUG-AE2 4 speed and the stock OE 4 speed shifter.  Brian