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Brian Conway

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Everything posted by Brian Conway

  1. Usually paste is for gas's, propane, natural etc. Tape is for fluids usually water. Brian
  2. Thanks Fellas. Looks like Bruce is going to solve my Problem. Brian
  3. Search; 1970 Front Drum Brake Hubs. Brian
  4. Thanks for looking. No R. or L. it is a universal one size etc... Brian
  5. 69 Deluxe door light backing plate. The plastic plate that holds the bulb, has the dual plug, and is screwed to the pot metal with two Phillips screws. BrianJConwayB@aol.com
  6. A little closer shot. The red oxide bracket is where the metal brake line, coming down the trans. tunnel, ends up. The metal brake line enters the bracket from the top side and attaches to the rubber hose/distribution block and onto the drums. Brian
  7. My 428 w/ram air doesn't torque 3" when I get on it. My point is it should not move that much. Are your motor mounts bolted securely ? Brian
  8. Easiest first check would be... Take a shock tower bracket off and check the shock. Brian
  9. These pictures are from my 69 but the same thing. Push the fiber glass panel back so ALL the screw holes line up. Yes, it is a section of wind lace that covers the steel and the panel edges. Brian
  10. From the '69 Ford Mustang Illustrated facts book' Regular Production Options; Vinyl-Covered Roof (Hardtop & Grande)..................84.25 Brian
  11. quote=craigm; Detroit quality of the times! Could be measurement methods, are u guys measuring straight line or along the frame rail? Also, what is the width of the snubber flange? I think 40 plus years of hard/high torque launches may have altered some of the alignments. Straight line measurements and 2" wide. Brian
  12. No. the Right/passenger side is the 29 & 3/8's and the LEFT/drivers side is 29 & 1/8. Perhaps someone else could get another set of measurements ? Brian
  13. measurement from the centerline of the UPPER rear leaf spring mount hole to the back of the snubber flange I get 29 & 3/8". Brian
  14. Thanks for the tip. Can't seem to locate those hoses on evilbay. Brian
  15. Couple of interior shots. 69 sport deck/fold down seat. Brian
  16. My set up is stock. 428 & 4 speed. Very hard to get 3/8" of up or down movement in the arm. Suggestions; your throw out arm connection to the bell housing needs a clutch release lever bracket. The throw out bearing should be firmly attached to the throw out arm. Did you install a new pilot bearing ? Brian
  17. I agree about the ' place in hell ' those guys don't seem to realize or care about how much stuff they are cramming into one corner. Brake lines, clutch springs and pivots, plugs, wires and of course that one valve cover bolt. There I feel better know. Brian
  18. Pretty hard to tell where you are there Mike.
  19. I am guessing the ' small bearings ' you are talking about are in the differential end and have nothing to do with this part of the assembly. The picture is of the same axle, previous picture, a stock 9"/31 spline axle shaft. Notice the 3 circular holes in the axle end. What is on the end of your axle shaft ? Brian
  20. The 'AXLE SHAFT SEAL ' is the most likely leaking the differential gear oil and will need to be replaced. The picture shows an axle shaft/bearing assembly from a stock 9"' rear end. Left to right; Brake drum, axle shaft end w/5 lugs, retainer plate, wheel bearing, wheel bearing retainer and the sweep. The AXLE SHAFT SEAL is next in line. It goes on the end of the axle shaft housing and butts up against the wheel bearing retainer. If your axle has the ' sweep ' Napa Part # 14968. Without the sweep the Napa part # is 13700. Brian
  21. That heat shield was put there for a reason, as Mike explained, and throwing it away makes no sense. Maybe you could get a better reason other than ' don't use them on rebuilds '. After all it sounds as though you are using your OE Manifold ? Brian
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