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Everything posted by Brian Conway
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Thank you for sharing that thought. Something to be always aware of. Great tip on that alternator bulb. Brian
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Thinking that a bit more light might help out with my instrument cluster visibility. The stock dash bulb is a # 194 14V and 2 candle power. I think that info is correct. A # 168 bulb is 14V and 3 candle power. One candle power may just be enough. I am thinking just some bulbs will be replaced. The dash/gauge/speedometer illumination bulbs. My real concern is will the bulb change have any adverse effects? Added heat , an imbalance or a possible current draw? Probably not so smart questions but gotta ask. Other solutions are not the topic at the moment. Thanks, Brian
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If using a non-stock 1 1/8" sway bar are the stock sway bar brackets re-useable? What size bushing would best fit using these parts?
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" if it ain't broke...don't fix it. This is a project (wiring) that could keep your car in the garage for some time. Drive the car for a bit . You will find more rewarding projects to take your time and money. Brian
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On my car. Brian
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Difference between Tail Light panels, 69 &70
Brian Conway replied to Hux's topic in 1969-70 Technical Forum
FWIW; my 69 quarter extensions are fiberglass and are C9ZB-11-C and 10 C. The 69-taillight panel is definitely curved top to bottom. Fitment on exterior tops and sides is quite good. With the trunk lid open gaps are obvious on both sides and in different locations. I think the outward appearance was/is more important than the symmetry. Brian -
Mentorships and where to find them?
Brian Conway replied to KMD88's topic in 1969-70 Technical Forum
The motor, carb and intake info might help? Idle mixture screws are a great start. Easy to do and undo. We all like to work on acceleration. Professional tuning is usually best left alone. That said with the help of a tach (so you will have a base rpm) you could adjust the idle rpm's using the idle adjustment screw. Brian -
OK then you say you haves changed everything at least once. Leaves only the plug wires? Check for continuity?
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Thanks for posting 'the fix'.
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Relaced everything twice except the intake manifold? Could the problem be with the Edelbrock? Re-check the firing order and plug wires? Check by Pulling plug wires? I realize if you can't get it to idle this can be difficult. As a last resort ask a friend to double check your trouble shooting efforts. Brian
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What I see in the picture (mid-left) is a drain/vent and not a troublesome 'crack'.
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Doesn't make the manifold bad. Does make the 'lower oil baffle' bad. The purpose for the baffle is two-fold. Provide an insulated area below the carb. pad from hot air and hot oil splash. Brian
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Hard to tell size? Could be balancing plugs used in the pressure plate? Brian
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Door Frame windlace that covers the fiberglass panels
Brian Conway replied to TexasEd's topic in 1969-70 Technical Forum
Any help? Brian -
Just to verify; 40 .25" is the measurement I have. I have Drake export brace installed. The engine crossmembers measures 29.5" center to center. Brian
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Correct tailpipe tips for Mach 4V
Brian Conway replied to Mach1 Driver's topic in 1969-70 Technical Forum
FWIW; these appear to be chromed? Brian -
This one? Yes takes just a bit of finesse. Brian
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Measuring Temperatures - Possible dumb question
Brian Conway replied to copb8's topic in 1969-70 Technical Forum
At the radiator with a thermometer. Brian -
Soldering iron and silver solder?
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OK. Not familiar with that set up. Brian
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If you're looking they can been seen. I painted mine black. Good time to install the splash shield. Brian
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OK got some new info and the results are ... it's the dash gauge and Rocketman is the recommended vendor for recalibration. I did put the Spectra FG 86B in the car Oct. 10, 2019 at 20,280 miles. Kept a record of gas fill ups, ohm readings and mileage. End result was with the gas gauge needle dead on E I got a 65 ohm reading. I still had about 5 gallons of gas in the tank. Bill Basore at Desert Classic Parts refurbished my C9WE-9275-A Sender. I installed it yesterday, at 22,325 miles, with much the same results. With an empty tank and the needle below E I got a 66 ohm reading. With 3 gallons in the tank I got a 53 ohm reading and with 20 gallons, at $6.70 a gallon, I got a 10 ohm reading. I called Basore, relayed my findings and he confirmed the dash gauge was the problem. Basore took a bit more time to explain the why and how but that's the short story. When I pulled the Spectra unit the float had an eyedropper of gas in it. Other than that the Spectra sender did a good job. Because I am not taking my dash apart to get the gauge out, right away, I will live with Empty means 3 gallons of gas in the tank. Close enough. Brian
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Ideas for adding tach to non-tach car?
Brian Conway replied to potato's topic in 1969-70 Technical Forum
I run the stock tach and I will suggest you get one big enough to see. My stock set up is so far inset in the dash cluster it takes a while to focus. I don't like taking my eyes off the road for that long. Numbers are not big enough and the lighting is poor. I have mine taped/marked with the important numbers. A large one on the column with shift points/lights would be the ticket. Brian -
Mentorships and where to find them?
Brian Conway replied to KMD88's topic in 1969-70 Technical Forum
So what's under the hood? How close to stock is the drive train? Brian