Zipppo

Are the disc brake pads for a 1969 the same as a 1970 or are they different? Thanks!

DO you by chance have the contact info on those sites or better yet a web address? Thank you.

Modified now have the pedal set up Thanks

I was able to secure a correct 1970 manual transmission pedal setup. It was rebuilt with roller bearings. Very slick. So I read you converted to a TKO 5 speed. The more I think about it this might be a better way to go or maybe better yet a T5 swap as it will most likely be more cost effective. Any info as to where how much etc to acquire this stuff. I am in Souther California so more local the better as shipping adds to the cost but am open to shipping for the right parts and complete. Thanks

I guess I needed to be more clear. What I mean is I will be swapping out the entire cradle with both the clutch and brake pedals as a unit removed from a manual transmission car. A total swap. I have heard the 1969 and 1970's are different is that the case? I do know power brake and manual brake are different. I will not be modifying the auto set up I have. I will remove that as a complete unit and store it away with all of the rest of the auto trans parts. Thanks.

I am looking at converting my 70 sportsroof with 351C and FMX to a 4 speed. The question is the pedals? I have a recollection of the 1970 and 69 model year pedals and cradle being different and not interchangeable. Also manual brakes -vs- power brake pedal portion is different. If one uses say 69 pedals and cradle will changing the Z bar to a 70 style make this work? I do not think so but it has been many years since I have done one of these and the memory is foggy on this. I just want to make sure I but the right parts and do not end up with stuff that I can not use then adding expense and frustration to the equation does not help. Thanks in advance.

Still looking Thanks!

I bought some new repop white ones for my 70. The black ones I have sold. Thanks for the info on the subtle differences in the 69 to 70 model years.

So I was able to swing by after work to my garage that I keep my cars in. I started the 70 Mustang and used a voltmeter. I tested the system by negative to negative side of battery cable and positive side to positive battery cable with engine at idle. Voltmeter read 14.50 to 14.51. I moved to the battery posts and same readings. So after speaking with a friend that is good with electrical he said start with the voltage regualtor fiest. Most likely that will do the trick. He also said check the headlight switch which i will do tomorrow on my way home from work. If questionable I will change that as well. Then the running light bulbs head lights. I also will check the small fuse in the fuse block to see if that popped. if it did I will change that aand hopefully that will restore the dash lights. If all of that goes well. I will check the fuel gauge as well. I hope I get lucky with this and it resolves. What a pain this electrical stuff is.

No longer needed found one. A friend had a 70 coupe he had parted with a year ago and was cleaning his storage shed and had the jack, handle on hold dowm Cost Free cant beat that. Thanks everyone here.

Okay I will go the route you recommend. thnk you. Now say the alternator reads good would it be prudent after checking grounds and cleaning cables to replace the voltage regulator as a precaution? They are pretty inexpensive. Lastly how about the dash lights and the blinker lights in the cluster could it be as simple as a blown fuse or could say overcharging alternator pop all the bulbs and or circut board?

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No the tank is full of fuel. All gauges except fuel work. I checked the ground at the tank. Probably the sender . Odd how it happened at the same time. I spoke with a friend of mine that is more electrically inclined then I am. He said start the car and then disconnect the negative side to battery if it dies most likely alternator and or. He said then reconnect negative cable and restart. Pull the connector to voltage regulator and take a paperclip run it from 1st to 3rd slot and the alternator should change pitch if it does then he said it is the voltage regulator if not then alternator. He also said to check grounds fuses etc... So I plan next week tues on day off to check it out. If all else fails I guess change both alt and regulator and replace all old fuses. Pull dash and look at circut board if wasted replace it and regulator behind dash along with headlight switch and clean all grounds. look and see if and damage to wires from headlight sockets back. Chnage headlight bulbs and see what happens. If that does not solve it then take it to an electrical specialty auto garage and get gouged. Ah old cars love them and hate them.

Lots of good info here. Yes the car was running and then the lights turned on and poof just that quick everything went. So Possible alternator, voltage regulator, fuses or fuses and or headlight switch and check grounds. Anything elese? I hope the printed circit borad did not fry. The speedo, temp and oil pressure gauge work just no gas gauge.

Both headlight bulbs actually burned out at the same time and none of the running lights work either. The dash lights quit working as well as the blinker arrow in the dash cluster. The brake lights, interior lights horn and radio still work.

I will try the headlight switch first and see. Pretty basic and if it looks toasted then maybe that is it. I also will pull the dash and look at the circut board as well. Fuel gauge well maybe coincintal the sender went out.

I turned on my headlights last night in my 1970 sportsroof and both healights burnt out, dash lights quit, blinkers in dash cluster do not light up yet the blink and fuel gauge reads empty. I was told that it was the headlight switch shorted out and needs to be replaced. Does that make sense almost sounds to simple or should I be looking deeper? Thanks in advance

I am looking fo a complete change over set up for my 1970 sportsroof from FMX behind my M Code 351 Cleveland with power disc brakes. I need it all from proper pedals in the crade with rods linkage, flywheel, bell housing, clutch, trans, shifter etc. All of it. I will also consider a 4 speed setup. Thanks in advance.

My 1969 black deluxe door panels (reporductions are brand new) I am open to a staight across swap for 1970 white. Thanks

Last question of the day! Sportdeck rear seat with TW or White Clarion interior in1970 Sportsroof. I have a non fold down or sportdeck 1970 I just bought. I have a complete sportdeck seat from a 1969 I know I can swap the upper seat potion to retain the 1970 seat. What color should the rear fiberglass panels be white or combination white and black. if both can you provide which are to be white and which to be black. i think the hockey stick as i call them upper shpuld be white and maybe the part that the latch s are covered by or all white? Thank you again!

Last question of the day! Sportdeck rear seat with TW or White Clarion interior in1970 Sportsroof. I have a non fold down or sportdeck 1970 I just bought. I have a complete sportdeck seat from a 1969 I know I can swap the upper seat potion to retain the 1970 seat. What color should the rear fiberglass panels be white or combination white and black. if both can you provide which are to be white and which to be black. i think the hockey stick as i call them upper shpuld be white and maybe the part that the latch s are covered by or all white? Thank you again!

Ok got it. Thank you!

Okay one more question? I have been offered a pair of deluxe door panels from a 1969 Mach 1 for my 1970 Sportsroof. I technically the cups are different but will they fit the 70 or are they too different? Thanks in advance!

Thank you! So It is the body color! Yup non Mach 1 car.

I have a question with regards to the trim ring that goes around the hood on a non Mach 1 car. Should it be body color or ????? Thanks in advance! Any pictures would be greatly appreciated