Patriotgamez

Has anyone had issues with the factory pivot point on a small block when lowering the motor 1/2"? Lowering the engine will change the angle of the Z-bar...when rotated could hit headers or steering components. The only options that I can think of is to modify the arms of the Z-bar, or maybe try to use a big block pivot? I have good clearance now and use the muscle Z-bar with heim joint/spherical rod ends

Cowl hood? or something custom??? Sweet motor!

The FPA headers are custom made for a specific application unless you picked them up from somebody else. If/when you call Stan at FPA and tell him what you have and what you are trying to clear, he will adjust to make them fit. If your unsure about them clearing...get them uncoated. I bought a set and very happy, they are pricey! but fitment issues are mitigated from a custom bend.

Is it just the third member your looking for, or the entire axle? What is your budget?

Scott Drake sells a shorter turn signal lever if you keep bumping your original with the smaller diameter wheel

I just slowly tapped mine off with a hardwood chunk of lathe, the proper way would probably be to use a release agent on the urethane/adhesive and work it off with a firm flat strip of poly/plastic or something that won't dent/scratch/mar the glass or stainless Unless you're talking about the fuzzies? In which case just pop the staples with some sidecutters

I know you have a well thought out plan, I was more or less thinking out loud. Awesome Fab work!

I know you spent a lot of time lowering your seat pans...do you think your head (with a helmet) is going to clear your overhead X brace?

I've had 3 labs and can't imagine a better breed...loves kids, loves water and the outdoors and very smart/discipline. Hopefully you will continue Bosco's legacy with a new best friend.

This boot might fit your shifter better... http://www.cjponyparts.com/shifter-boot-4-speed-hurst-1970/p/MSB3/

Code EP1012 will get you 5% off on this or any purchase at cj pony parts

Erson makes a nice roller rocker

Gonna order it, Thanks!

If you can make it all the way through this video...check out the 68' he is restoring.

Bump this Hard for me to believe that everyone running a toploader is using the stock mount. Little help here...

I had to weld a washer to make my hole true again...and also replace the clutch pedal support shaft. Both were worn, which made for a very sloppy pedal

Is anyone running an aftermarket tranny mount on their toploader? I am getting conflicting info...the Protane website say that the http://www.prothanesuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=61605 Will work for any V8 combo, but other vendors state that this mount will work for every era correct tranny but the toploader. The OEM mount will not handle my torque...if this one won't work can someone suggest another proven solution that works with a 4 speed toploader? Thanks

http://www.theonion.com You want satire? This is America's finest news source

http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=1140

Curious question... Doing a patch in both rear wheel houses and there appears to be a chunk of brass where the inner and outer wheel houses meet? It was like this on both sides. Anyone know why the factory did this, or am I "special"

Make your own, I bought this thinking it would fit perfect...and spent just as much time jacking with it to make it fit right as if I would have made from scrap angle iron

http://autorebateco.com/eatonperformancepayout/EATON_PerformancePayout_Rebate%20Form_2014.pdf The more you spend the more you get back, the last time they ran a deal like this I got a Visa gift card as the rebate.

You could use a pinion angle shim to bring it back to spec...if your ok with having a truck axle in your Stang.

With the back of the leaf dropped from the shackle put an impact on the front shoulder bolt and go in reverse continuously while rocking the back of the leaf spring side to side. If the sleeve/bolt in the front has tons of corrosion it wil work out if you keep the impact on and the back of the leaf spring rocking side to side. Mine came out in a matter of minutes using this technique, if you pin the back of the leaf spring to its full right and left limits occasionally the front shoulder bolt should catch and work out...assuming there is any thread left.

The rubber in the stick shift boots have a similar gnarly smell