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Patriotgamez

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Posts posted by Patriotgamez

  5. Posted · Report reply

    this was a definite concern based on what i had read from a few people before buying. however, i don't notice any vibration from the change (only one week between driving the car with the different clutch setups). i don't know if it's because the engine is isolated enough from the body or if any additional vibration is simply masked by everything else (i'm running ron morris mounts that are pretty stiff).

     

    i could hear a rattle sound around 1500 rpm range when really lugging it down in 5th. i was actively trying to listen for it though. i doubt it's something i'll even think about if not purposely trying to create it. maybe more miles will lead to some sort of vibration or noise.

     

    Kudos to whomever balanced your rotating assy...if it wasn't right it would be even more noticeable without the damper on the clutch disc.

  10. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks for the replies.

     

    'Be sure to buy the correct size drill bit for doing the Arning Drop..buy a good bit so you will get clean precise holes...me and a friend went in together and spent like 40 bucks on a bit to do both our cars.'

     

    I got the drill bit along with the template from Daze.

     

    'Negative wedge kit or modified UCAs (because of the shelby drop). If your budget allows, go with roller spring perches...or at the very least bushings that don't squeak.'

     

    I have tried to figure this out. There is a thread on this board about the UCA drop with a Borgeson box (I am doing a stock replacement) that indaicated that the stock set up alone does not provide enough caster and a lot of mention of adjustable strut rods was made so as to be able to get the proper adjustment. I came away thinking that it was because of the combination of the two. So with the drop alone do I need the wedge kit or adjustable strut rods? I know that with earlier years the UCA is moved rearward a bit but with with the 69 this is not done.

     

    If you're only dropping 1" you should be good with your stock UCA and ball joint, but if you're cutting springs And/or running big front tires you may want to rethink it.

  14. Posted · Report reply

    My original cowl was in good shape so I didn't split it open. I did however put new seam seal on the heater box inlet (inside the cowl) and sprayed Eastwood rust encapsulator (in aerosol can) with the flexible extension used to coat the inside of frame rails. This got into all the nooks and crannies that the cowl possesses. The end of the flexible extension has great coverage and sprays 180* like a puff of smoke.

  15. Posted · Edited by Patriotgamez · Report reply

    clamp the outside of the torque box to the rocker tab and pinch weld underneath, square the face of TB with the inner frame rail (if the TB is too wide to cram into the space "roll' the edge slightly with a BFH. look underneath and make sure bottom of TB flange isn't hanging past the frame rail. Tack in place and verify top fits before frying everything permanently. Use lots of clamps!

  16. Posted · Report reply

    no intake and dizzy off...exposed to the elements? This is full of water/ rust, and if it is a cold climate ice. You know what ice does to a block.

     

    If it was numbers matching for your car sure buy it/fix it.

     

    There is a good reason the owner hasn't broken this thing down, because he/she knows it is toast. If they take it apart and sale is contingent on condition...maybe.

  22. Posted · Report reply

    definitely not a concours restoration...but I personally wouldn't consider this car butchered. Change the paint and wheels and appearance is close to "stock."

     

    Most deep pocket buyer's don't like cars messed with too much, i doubt the seller will see the asking price with a vehicle modified as such, but you never know.

  23. Posted · Report reply

    Welcome to the forum!

     

    I'm pretty sure the top half of the front torque boxes goes on top of the frame rail like it came from the factory, I can't speak for the one piece designs as I heard they are nothing but trouble with fitment.

     

    snap a pic of your shock tower and post it so we can see what kind of shape it is in, my guess is it could be repaired...if the flange you are referring to i(that is hitting/close to the header) is the one that runs vertically with the shock tower: heat it, bang it flush and weld'er up if you want the extra strength.

     

    here is a couple pics of my TB to give you a visual

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