Patriotgamez

RU using the O2 sensors just to tune? I assume you have nothing to input the O2 sensor to...besides a gauge?

Did you bench bleed the MC?

yeah, if you decide to use them just trim the leading edge and seam seal.

Retrofit mine... mainly because the PO used progressively bigger lag bolts every time the exhaust hanger was dropped. The ones I took out were about 1/2"

Kudos to whomever balanced your rotating assy...if it wasn't right it would be even more noticeable without the damper on the clutch disc.

No Damper in the McCloud assy? Is there more vibration...felt or heard?

If you still have the carpet...or if you plan on using the carpet you took out, lay it in and get your switch located.

looks like somebody took an air chisel to the shock towers to get at the A arm zerk fitting

Check out this ratcheting shifter... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Wi3vwWyGXY

If you're only dropping 1" you should be good with your stock UCA and ball joint, but if you're cutting springs And/or running big front tires you may want to rethink it.

Negative wedge kit or modified UCAs (because of the shelby drop). If your budget allows, go with roller spring perches...or at the very least bushings that don't squeak.

if your small block is making big block power, absolutely! and/or if you are already making repairs in that area it is good insurance. An otherwise stock 302 with good shock towers...not really necessary. go with a one piece export brace if your looking to stabilize your shock towers.

Fun fact: 559,451 Mustangs produced for the 1965 model year...compared to 299,824 in 1969 http://classicponycars.com/history.html

My original cowl was in good shape so I didn't split it open. I did however put new seam seal on the heater box inlet (inside the cowl) and sprayed Eastwood rust encapsulator (in aerosol can) with the flexible extension used to coat the inside of frame rails. This got into all the nooks and crannies that the cowl possesses. The end of the flexible extension has great coverage and sprays 180* like a puff of smoke.

clamp the outside of the torque box to the rocker tab and pinch weld underneath, square the face of TB with the inner frame rail (if the TB is too wide to cram into the space "roll' the edge slightly with a BFH. look underneath and make sure bottom of TB flange isn't hanging past the frame rail. Tack in place and verify top fits before frying everything permanently. Use lots of clamps!

no intake and dizzy off...exposed to the elements? This is full of water/ rust, and if it is a cold climate ice. You know what ice does to a block. If it was numbers matching for your car sure buy it/fix it. There is a good reason the owner hasn't broken this thing down, because he/she knows it is toast. If they take it apart and sale is contingent on condition...maybe.

Ewww... those lifters may be in there real good. Does the motor turn? If not it is a gamble on any engine.

Effortlessly? I think Siri or spell check gotcha

http://www.sancospecialties.com/mustang.HTM I got my (reinforcement) stuff from this guy, he has an ebay account. There are also forum members here that make/sell them, scroll through the parts for sale threads or do a search

http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/album.php?albumid=289&pictureid=2071 I'll hook you up with a link until you can navigate. Totally fixable in my opinion. Look at installing a "dog bone" between your frame rail and shock tower like the Boss cars. This will compliment your existing shock tower reinforcement(s)

Depending on how far you need to go down... -modify base or get a drop base (big block shaker base?) -lower profile intake -mill existing intake -remove spacer (obvious but still) I know Buckeye had the same issue on his build, if you have a couple free hours...scroll through his thread

definitely not a concours restoration...but I personally wouldn't consider this car butchered. Change the paint and wheels and appearance is close to "stock." Most deep pocket buyer's don't like cars messed with too much, i doubt the seller will see the asking price with a vehicle modified as such, but you never know.

Welcome to the forum! I'm pretty sure the top half of the front torque boxes goes on top of the frame rail like it came from the factory, I can't speak for the one piece designs as I heard they are nothing but trouble with fitment. snap a pic of your shock tower and post it so we can see what kind of shape it is in, my guess is it could be repaired...if the flange you are referring to i(that is hitting/close to the header) is the one that runs vertically with the shock tower: heat it, bang it flush and weld'er up if you want the extra strength. here is a couple pics of my TB to give you a visual

An interesting read on the history of the Ford FE series engine http://www.curbsideclassic.com/automotive-histories/automotive-history-the-ford-fe-series-v8/

From VMF, a 70' with tach...orientation of belt/park lights should be the same