foothilltom

I re-read your original post and I still suspect fuel delivery. If your car was running great prior to storage, I would stick with things that could be related to degrading fuel quality and avoid the big stuff for fear of introducing new variables. That gas sat in your carb bowls for 5 months. It could have lacquered up the tiny passages. Your fuel filter could be clogged. Your fuel pump impeller might be struggling to keep up. Now that you've torn into your carb, it's possible you've introduced other issues with the floats, but this is what I would recommend: * Pull your plugs and inspect them for tell-tale signs of lean/rich operation. This is useful information for moving forward. * Consider replacing your fuel filter. It's a cheap piece of insurance. * Treat your fuel system with SeaFoam (or equivalent product in your country). I believe it calls for putting some in your fuel tank, some in your crank case, and some down your carb with the engine running. This stuff is pretty amazing and will clean everything in the fuel system. For $15 US, you might solve your problem. If not, at least you can enjoy the huge white cloud you'll produce :) You really should set your timing precisely. Do you have a timing light? Going by ear is OK for some, but I wouldn't trust my ear. Make sure you disconnect the vac advance. I'd then check your vac advance unit. Do you have a vacuum pump? The unit should hold a vacuum. If it doesn't that could totally explain your poor accelleration behavior. After that, it starts getting into areas that I don't understand well. I am a big fan of simple/cheap diagnostics and component replacement before going too crazy. Good luck, man.

This was just my experience and has no good explanation, but... My gas gauge on my 20-years-in-storage-coupe read about 1/8th tank no matter what. I had replaced the sending unit (and the whole fuel system since it was so gummed up) and figured that would do it. Was distressed to see the same reading with all new stuff. Wound up grounding the sending unit to the the frame just to make sure the needle would move...it did...it went all the way to full then settled back to the proper reading (of half tank or whatever I had in there). Now the gauge reads correctly. The moral of my story: the needle needed to be coaxed off the bottom somehow. This doesn't explain any other behavior you mention but perhaps they are related. Like I said, no real good explanation. Tom

Be sure you have removed your vacuum advance from the distributor when checking/setting the timing. Also, make sure your timing light is adjusted to 0 if it has such an adjustment. As far as your floats are concerned, I generally just use the sight screw to eyeball the fuel level (does a 2100 have a sight screw?). It should just trickle out at proper height. Finally, can you confirm what timing it is running at right now?

[ATTACH]6500[/ATTACH] This is a pic of the vertical trim and weatherstrip on a 69 coupe. It attaches to the rear of the door glass. The replaceable weatherstrip overlaps the quarter glass when the door closes. I'm fairly certain this arrangement is reversed on 70's, but I don't have one to prove that. Does this answer your questions, Vox?

I may not have been clear before, but I was not able to find the stainless steel trim piece anywhere either. I was able to find the rubber weather-stripping part from Virginia Mustang (vamustang.com), but i'm guessing you're looking for the stainless steel piece. I wound up buying a parts car and stole these parts from it. It sounds like there's more than one of you looking for these parts. I'll keep my eyes peeled around here. Tom

I see. I think it's probably just a function of bad geometry between the tank and the sending unit that results in the pick-up tube riding higher off the bottom than it should. The only real solution would be to bend the tubing slightly to allow the pick-up to be lower in the tank, but I don't recall how long that tube is...may not afford you much room for adjustment. 3Gal represents 15% of your tank capacity, so that seems like a bummer.

When I replaced mine, it slid on very snugly and that's it. If it's a loose fit, you can glue it, but you shouldn't have to.

Ah! I know what you're talking about now. That bad boy attaches to the door glass and the rubber part lays "overlaps" the quarter glass when the door is closed. As I recall, the stainless part is a bastard to find...the weatherstrip insert I've seen in the catalogs. If memory serves, they're called a vertical window channel or something? Tom

Hey Hoover, I shall defer to bnickel as the resident GT guy, but my son's car fits your description of options though it is not a GT. I think many coupes came with the hood scoop w/integrated signals, deluxe interior (adj mirrors, etc.), and so forth, but the only way to be real sure is to get a Marti report. They're pretty cheap and fun to know the real origin of your car. Your door tag would tell you also if that was an original 302 or somebody swapped out another motor. As you suggested, 302s were not a GT equipment motor.

I would advise you start with the simplest stuff first. After 6 months, fuel can go bad (at least the current crap we call gasoline in the USA) and could lead to clogged fuel line, clogged fuel filter, clogged carb passages, fouling of plugs and generally poor performance. Do you use a fuel stabilizer during storage? Was the fuel system empty during storage? Was it new gas for the spring drive? If you can rule out fuel-quality issues, then I'd just do the basic timing/dwell checks first. Improper timing fits your problem description. Also, check the vacuum advance...maybe it's not holding vacuum and that would also lead to poor acceleration response. It is odd that it ran great one week earlier, but I'd go from simple to complex in my tests. Good luck. Tom

Hmmm...something doesn't sound right. The pick up tube pretty much sits on the bottom of the tank, so I'd expect less than a gallon is needed to start her up. Perhaps the filter/basket/gizmo surrounding the pickup tube is clogged on the bottom? Oh, and are you saying it won't pump fuel with less than 3 gal or are you saying your gauge doesn't read less than 3 gal?

Vox, it would be real helpful to include a picture of the area in question (even if something is missing). The fellas will have no trouble identifying the part. But for what it's worth, they call the smaller window the "quarter window" (passenger or driver). The chrome drip rail runs along the top and there's a short, flat, wider piece of chrome that sits along the ridge of the window. This is held in by a one (or two) sheet metal screws. I'm pretty sure that's what you're missing. Is this it: [ATTACH]6499[/ATTACH] If so, they sell them for about $70 per pair.

Sounds to me like your float isn't adjusted properly and you're just overflowing. Are you using the new float that came with your rebuild kit? I've heard stories that the floats often come with pinholes and they won't float. Nice, eh? Anyway, I'd pull the bowl and make sure your float isn't filled with gas. Also check if the float level is set and that it actually shuts off fuel flow when it reaches the right height in the bowl. You can experiment by moving the float up with your fingers and blowing through the fuel inlet. If it's shutting off correctly you won't be able to blow through it. Adjust the needle and/or bend the float as necessary. Oh, and how sure are you that you installed all your gaskets correctly? Tom

For $795 you could rent a "professional" to hold her cup and yours for a couple days at least. That is what we're talking about, right? :)

If it's an Autolite 2100, you need to look at the numbers stamped on the venturi and cross-ref using the ID=CFM values below: .98=190 1.01=240 1.02=245 1.08=287 1.14=300 1.21=351 1.23=356 1.33=424 The 2100 is an awesomely reliable carb, but woefully small if you're looking for any performance.

Howdy. The mirrors should just screw in from the outside. I'm surprised there is only one, but all of my Stangs have had the sport mirrors which have 2 screws. There should be no reason to pull the door panel for the non-sport mirror.

Hey Marc, if you're up for it, I'm happy to chat with you. I'm in Auburn as you may recall. I'll PM you with my cell phone number. I did just about all of the tests you're describing with my gauge cluster on my kitchen counter. Tom

Hey Mike, I saw your post after embarking on the grease-explosion approach. I am happy to report that it worked like a charm! I now have the bushing (clearly a bushing and not a bearing) on my workbench. Whoo! The only question I have to RacerX (or anybody that has tried this) is: Do I have to clean out all the grease in that cavity? I wiped out as much as I could, but there's quite a bit lurking in there. Will it get on my clutch disk and mess it up? Always wondering. Tom

Thanks, RacerX. If you're still out there, any recommendations for what you pound in? Dowel? Oooh, how about the plastic alignment tool gizmo that came with my kit?

Gentlemens, I be needing some guidance on removing the Pilot Bushing on my 351W. I bought a Clutch kit from Summit which was supposed to include a new pilot bushing, but instead has 4 (count 'em, 4) bushing/bearings. This has me slightly confused, but I'm guessing they fit a number of applications. Anywho, I'm stuck removing my existing bushing that sits in my flywheel. There's a small "lip" inside it and I've tried pulling on it with a bent wire gizmo I fashioned, but it hasn't budged at all. It's hard to get any real leverage on that. I'm wondering if there's some specialized tool or if it's necessary to remove the flywheel (and pound it out from the backside). I've Googled and found mostly Chevy sites talking about jamming the hole with grease and then pounding in some kind of tight-fitting rod (like a dowel or something) and using hydraulic pressure to do the work. This sounds interesting but before I create the equivalent of a grease-bomb in my garage, I thought I would ask the Mustang experts. In summary: * Recommendations to remove the bushing * Why 4 spare bushing/bearings in the clutch kit * Is it a Pilot Bearing or a Pilot Bushing Thanks and happy Friday. Tom

Roger that. I hope it turns out to be a diamond in the rough. Keep us posted!

Follow that lead, you never know! If it's a GT coupe and isn't a big pile of rust, $3K is a sweet deal. Why not take a look at it now, post some pics and we'll help you solve the mystery! You don't want that to get away if it's the real deal. Good luck.

A Marti report is conclusive in that it would reveal the "GT Equipment Group" option, but without that in hand, the telltale signs that I know of are: * GT emblem on flip-top gas cap (not screw on) * Non-functional hood scoop with integrated turn signals * Pin style hood locks * "GT stripes" along bottom of doors between front and rear wheels * Beefier suspension, springs, shocks, and front sway bar * Dual exhaust with cutouts in rear valance, rolled-edge chrome dual tips * H, M, S, Q, and R codes only * Some stuff I'm forgetting This stuff can be added easy enough to any coupe but taken together, it makes a good case. Again, the Marti report is the key.

Ok, I am going to take the big plunge and try this myself! Just got off the phone with Mark from ToploaderHeaven and ordered a rebuild kit, wide-ratio 2nd gear and low/2nd synchro assembly. I might live to regret this, but what the heck! Mark stayed on the phone with me while I removed the access plate, counted teeth on gears, looked at numbers stamped on the housing, etc. and remotely diagnosed worn down teeth on 2nd gear based on my descriptions. He's a really nice and patient guy. I figure I'm going to learn a ton and assuming I don't screw it all up and have that DIY satisfaction every time my Stang stays in 2nd gear. Wish me luck, I'm gonna need it. :) Thanks for the push, Rockhouse!

Rebuild it myself, eh? That's an interesting thought. I took a look at the parts explosion (an apt term in this case) in my shop manuals and was overwhelmed by all the little things. I just assumed it was over my head. I guess this is why we do most of this stuff ourselves: it's just too dang expensive (and no fun) to farm it out. I will consider that, rockhouse. I'll call those guys and see what they say. Tom