foothilltom

Hey RacerX, is it your recollection that the "self adjusting" feature only works when you stop while moving backward? I read somewhere that -- after making the adjustment that you already described -- you accelerate and stop quickly in reverse for the auto-adjust. Maybe it works both ways? Just curious.

Hey Chris, most of us feel your pain on the breaker points. Getting them just right is a PITA to say the least and proper setting is crucial for timing/dwell. If you're in the mood to spend $99, consider upgrading to a Pertronix Ignition Module to eliminate the points entirely. There's going to be a simple reason for your problem, but it usually takes "starting from scratch" to find it. I suggest building up from the basics. Timing. Factory is 6-8B (more or less) though many of the fellers seem to advance as far as she'll go w/out pinging. I'm not good enough to play this by feel, so I break out the timing light and set it precisely. Note that your point setting will affect timing. Get your Dwell meter fired up and get the dwell angle set properly (i forget the exact value, but I want to say 29 degrees). You can look it up easy enough. It's *really* hard to get this right, so plan on pulling that distrib cap many times and farting around with those points (do I need to say Petronix again?). Make sure you disconnect and plug the line to the vac advance to set the timing and work at a consistent idle. Once timing/dwell are verified, you can cross that off the list more or less. Idle-mixture doesn't sound like your problem. Signs are pointing to the power circuit (aka fuel delivery). That stock autolite could be your problem. My son's 302/2V ran like crap and we played all the games I'm describing to you. We eventually threw up our hands, swapped out the autolite for a friend's 2V holley he had laying around, and OUILA! it ran awesome. Carbs are intricate animals and there could be any number of issues with clogged passages, baffle incorrectly seating, etc. Maybe the carb shop you patronize would let you borrow one for an experiment? Another basic item is the fuel mixture. The symptoms you're describing could fit an overly rich mixture problem. This is not the same as your idle-mixture. Does your exhaust smell "gassy" or any "oily" exhaust? Since your car has trouble starting after it initially dies, I'm wondering if your plugs are getting fouled by the rich mixture. Your autolite should have a sight screw that you can remove to check the fuel level in the bowl. The fuel should just trickle out if the floats are set properly. If the fuel pours out, you are running rich. This could be an improper float setting or your fuel pump is overwhelming your carb. Hell, it could be improper jetting. Anywho, a rich mixture can wreak havoc on how your engine runs. I need to run now, but I have additional thoughts for later. You'll get this licked...just be open to starting from scratch and re-checking these settings over and over as you change stuff up. Tom

+1 on taking pictures during disassembly! It's easy to get confused which shoe goes where as they are different depending on the left or right side of the car. In other words, don't just take a picture of one side. Do one side at a time like the fellers have said here. And if you don't have one, do yourself a favor and invest in the hand tool to remove and replace those small springs. It will safe you some heartache. I also bought the "brake spoon" (or whatever its called) to remove the long spring at the top but later realized I could have used a number of normal tools for that. You can do this. I'm about a 3 out of 10 on the mechanically inclined scale and I did it!

I don't know what part of the country you're in (I'm in Northern Cali), but what works out here is yellow-jacket prevention. We hang those yellow cylindrical traps (the ones with the cotton ball soaked with the smelly crap the insects love) very early in the season (like around Feb) in strategic places. The theory is that the queens come out of hibernation first and get caught in the trap early. This obviously eliminates a crapload of future wasps. This has worked for us for about 10 years now. We had a spring/summer about 11 years ago that was just awful: yellow jackets everywhere. This process has settled their hash. I realize you're already over-run, but this might help you for next time. tom

Hi Chris, here are a few thoughts based on my experience (such that it is): Don't lump together idle behavior and "running" behavior. These are different animals entirely and most likely have unrelated causes. I'd suggest getting your idle circuit working "just so" before tackling any other problem so you don't chase your tail. If you can't get your idle circuit dialed in, there's obviously a problem that needs to be found. It's great that you've brought a vac gauge into the mix. Your car should comfortably idle in the 600-900 range at maximum vacuum. Make sure the engine is warm and the choke off entirely. If you get tired of waiting, just manually disengage the choke. The choke just introduces another variable you don't want. As somebody suggested, get your idle-mixture screw baseline set. Turn them all the way in (both sides) and back out 1.5-2 turns (as a starting point). Adjust until you get to max vacuum and lowest idle. If you can't get 'er to idle correctly, it's time to start diagnosing possible causes. Vac leaks are an obvious concern though it sounds like you don't suspect that. Anywho, get your idle circuit right before you press on. This way you're dealing with fewer variables as you move on to the "power circuit". When I read your post, my first thought was "power valve". I don't believe you've answered the "what kind of carb" question, but if it's a holley, you have a power valve (PV). The PV is supposed to open (to deliver more fuel) when vacuum drops to a certain level (depending on the rating of the PV). If the PV doesn't open at the right moment, the engine would stumble and possibly die upon wider throttle. Does your engine die only under a load? Or can you reproduce the stumble/die by just quickly opening the throttle in neutral? One other thought is your vac advance. If you don't have one, borrow a vacuum tester (one that creates vacuum, not one that measures it) and see if your vac advance is leaking or broken. Your vac advance could also explain a stumble/die condition under load. In summary, take it one step at a time: diagnose/fix idle behavior before moving on. Best of luck! Tom

What he said. There are at least two "flavors" of Marti reports you can purchase. You'll want to be sure to get the deluxe one that has production numbers (1 of X) factoring in all your options.

I'm stuck trying to figure out what everyone means by the "front clip". Is it the hood, the headlight buckets, the grill, the arrow-shaped piece of sheet metal that sits flat behind the bumper, the bumper, and the front valance? What exactly is the front clip here? Missing it, obviously.

I'll say from the get-go that I'm just a few steps above novice and many of the guys here have restored every nut and bolt on these cars, but I can offer some advice. First, as cool as it is to restore this old cars, I don't know anybody who would say they made any money, let alone "good money" in the process. Parts are expensive and if you hire out for certain things (body, paint), you'll pay big. Even if you do all the work yourself, your hourly rate will hover around $.05. The reality is, it just doesn't pay and you should do it for the "fun", the hobby, or the love of cars. There's a crapload of satisfaction to be had, but I really don't think there's dough in it. I just re-read this and it sounds negative. This is an awesome hobby and I strongly encourage you to plunge in...I'm just saying don't expect to get paid. Try to break even! :) If you're going true restoration, keep your motor as a numbers matching car is going to score more points. If you're warming up to the idea of a "restomod", the sky is the limit. If you're serious about racing it or just getting on it, I can tell you'll get tired of that straight 6 pretty quick. Post some pictures when you can. I'm sure the fellas here will fill your head full of great ideas. The more clarity you have on what you want, the better the info will be. Good luck. Tom

Grabber's counter Q is essential to get good help and opinions here. That said, you've found more than a "really good Mustang forum" by coming here. The guys here are helpful, polite, and extremely knowledgeable. So, if you give us something to hang our hat on (like what are your plans for the car), you'll get tons of good stuff...promise. Welcome.

Keep in mind...all of these circuits go through the turn signal switch (located below your steering wheel). There are about 9 wires coming from here that run to every one of the subsystems you've described. If it were me, I'd get out my test light and test for 12V on each of the various wires coming down the steering column (to the plastic connector under the column) for each system you suspect. For example, engage the left turn signal and measure for 12V on that wire (i believe it was orange with green stripe if memory serves). Use your wiring diagram to make sense of them. If you get no 12V on that wire, it's a good bet your turn signal switch is DOA. I wound up having to replace this turn signal switch on both my Mustangs. It can drive you crazy chasing down the possibilities, but just isolate one circuit at a time and you'll work it out. My $.02, Tom

Hey Dro, there are a bunch of threads in here about gauges malfunctioning, so I would first encourage you to search through them. A "domain restricted" Google search of "gauges not working" returned several good results: http://www.google.com/search?q=gauges+not+working+site%3A1969stang.com&hl=en&num=10&lr=&ft=i&cr=&safe=images&tbs= If you don't find everything you need here, I'm guessing you'll at least be able to narrow down your issue and post the updates. Good luck.

Hey Ranger, I just spoke with a tech guy from a cover store (Covercraft) and his opinion is the fastback cover would be a poor fit for the coupe and he didn't recommend it. The advantage of mirror pockets is fit: it allows the cover to hug the sides better. Strange they don't provide that option for the coupe but it seems universal from my research so far. The guy said they would provide mirror pockets separately with your order and you would have to get them "sewn in" yourself. This is intriguing, but I don't have the kung fu to do that nor do I know and seamstresses! At this point, I'll probably order the coupe version with the separate mirror pouches and potentially deal with that later. The website i'm using is: http://www.carcoverusa.com/Wolf-Car-Covers.html Last thing...the Wolf name appears to be a brand and the logo appears on the site. However, I'm not sure if it is truly a Wolf brand by the time you specify your car and see the options. More later. tom

Thanks for the info Big Secz. I have scoured for the Wolf NOAH brand and found at least one site that carries it for $220-ish. The thing is, it doesn't have mirror pockets for the coupe/vert. It has mirror pockets for Fastbacks only, which I find odd. So my next dumb question is: do you think I'd be better off ordering a fastback cover for a coupe in order to get the mirror pockets or do you think I'd be trading one feature for bad fit? I don't have a fastback nearby to measure, but I'd like to think the overall dimensions are the same? Input appreciated. Tom

Howdy gents and happy early holidays. Am looking to buy the boy a quality car cover for his 69 coupe for Christmas. It (unfortunately) spends most of its time outside. Am looking for a cover that will last a few years and do a good job protecting against the elements. We get a tiny bit of snow, but not a lot. Fair amount of rain. Hot in the summer. I have obviously googled around but was hoping to get some actual recommendations from guys who have actually used them. A custom cover would be swell for best fit. Thanks! Tom

Hey Dro, $800 might go a long way toward solving your current problems, depending on what they are. Do you feel like sharing the issues you're having?

Super excellent advice from the LindenBruce. I have used these on/off techniques ever since I snapped my first insulator by trying to get a socket on a driver's side plug. There isn't much room in there (esp on the driver's side), but it can totally be done. Have fun with it.

You're not alone Handegard. Electronic ignition modules were created to eliminate the crappy game we all play to correctly tune the breaker points.

Most definitely an option. My M code (351W, 4 speed) has no factory tach. A dang shame.

Could those holes be for those plastic wire harness "clips" (for lack of a better term) to hold your trunk wiring harness in place? I can imagine they've broken off many years ago. Just a guess. Tom

Howdy gentlemens, Apologies for another non-technical post from yours truly, but I would like to get your learned opinions on the value of my 69 GT Coupe. I have 3 kids in college and money is tight. Some of you probably know the story of this car (sat in storage for 21 years, trannie rebuild, etc.), but here are the main details: It's an M code GT coupe. 351 Windsor, unknown mileage, PO said 5K on rebuild but he had no documentation. 4-speed Toploader (freshly rebuilt!). New clutch. Holley 650 on Edelbrock Performer. Stock manifolds, dual 2.0" exhaust, Flowmasters. Aftermarket aluminum 3-row radiator. Stock ignition. Factory front discs, new stock MC and Booster. Rebuilt drums. Cragars with Radial T/As with about 400 miles on them. All new fuel system (tank, sending unit, lines, pump). The car has all the actual "GT" details: flip-top gas cap, GT stripes, hood scoop, beefier suspension, etc. 8-track tape player from the early 70's that I've never tried to use. (Anybody have an 8-track tape I can buy from them?) It's Jade Black (original paint) and I'd say it's a cosmetic 8 out of 10 due to a handful of tiny dents from crap falling on it in storage. Mechanically, I'd say it's a 9 out of 10. Electrically a 10. Everything works. Interior is perfect except the PO dyed the original black standard interior beige. It looks really good, but not stock. Painted the dash and all plastic interior to match. Thanks for any thoughts you might have on market value today. I've never sold anything on eBay but I'm thinking that might be a good start. Craigslist is an option, but my area (Sacramento) is pretty depressed right now. Thanks again. Tom

Hey Bob, this is my semi-fuzzy recollection, so it may not be entirely accurate. As you say, there are two "hinges" on the bottom that you slide the seat into. Then there are at least 3 sheet metal screws that attach the left, middle, and right to the sheet metal that makes up the package tray and trunk separator (for lack of a better term). Good luck. tom

Angel's description is spot on. I am responding only because I had to do this same thing in my garage on my GT coupe. I can offer a few random thoughts: If you buy new fuel lines, they come in 2 pieces (as Angel already said). The rear piece needs to be "unbent" as they bend it to fit in the carton. Be careful with this process so you don't destroy it. Be prepared to make little adjustments to the tubing. I bought a tubing bender, but wound up just using my hands. You'll need sections of rubber fuel hose to connect the rear line to the tank sending unit, to connect the rear and front pieces of tubing under the driver's side frame (right behind the wheel well), to connect to your fuel pump, etc. I had my old fuel lines to use a guide, so you may need additional info on how to route the lines along the frame, where to connect to the body, etc. I'd be happy to take some pictures for you...just let me know. It's a couple of hour job for sure and it was helpful for me to have the car as high up as I could get it on 4 jack stands. Good luck! Tom

Thanks a bunch, PD! You da man. Tom

Thanks for the response, Cobra. I think that process would work for lights that are more or less already in the ballpark. I've just replaced mine and all 4 are pointing various places. But...what I can infer from that process is the high beams (inner lights) should appear in between the low beams horizontally (and not necessarily higher or lower vertically). I would also think that at some point, the beams have to be "below" and "inside" the marks you describe at some distance, otherwise the lights would just shine out into infinity while driving. I mean, shouldn't the lights "converge" at some point out in front of the car? I can't imagine they are perfectly parallel, but i'm probably overthinking of all this. And to PDad...my bad! I never seem to notice my PMs. Reading it now. Will catch up with you soon and thanks in advance for any wisdom on my question. Tom

Howdy Dave, I wouldn't start buying parts yet. What you're describing sounds like the door handle release hardware inside your door isn't "releasing" properly. For example, if you tried to close your working door while keeping the door handle button pushed, your door wouldn't latch and would just bounce back open. My suggestion would be to pull your door panel and clean the entire locking/latching mechanism as best you can, then apply a small amount of lithium grease to the various connection points. I'm guessing something inside the door panel is awry, not the external latching mechanism. Good luck, Tom