foothilltom
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Posts posted by foothilltom
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Hey Arrowhead, I think your install looks mighty sharp. I was planning on installing the carpet OVER the shifter and covering with the plate, but I wouldn't lose any sleep over your job at all, my friend.
And going back to my selfish needs... :)
Do you recall what size allen wrench you used? I swear I've tried every size, but maybe I'm just a stooge. Was it standard or metric?
Thanks!
Tom
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Howdy guys, long time, no speakee. Wife's dad passed away and that totally threw things into a turmoil. I have yet another question after scouring manuals and whatnot.
I'm installing carpet. I need to remove the shift handle on my auto-trans and there's this super-tiny little bolt inside that I can't figure out to save my life. It doesn't fit any of my hex wrenches, is not a phillips, and has exceeded my talents.
Ultimately, I just want to remove the "t handle" and the cover plate so that I can position the carpet correctly. Is there some magic here?
As always, my many thanks!
Tom
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Hey, for what it's worth, I'm in the same boat as you (69Again) doing a coupe restoration with the boy. At least that's the theory. My son is 15.5 and hasn't exactly burned the garage down with his enthusiasm to work on the car. I wonder if you're having a different experience.
Anyway, with regard to the hood, I used a pretty simple technique. Once I knew the distance from the back of the hood (which actually is easier to eyeball), I put a tiny drop of paint on the end of the studs that bolt the scoop to the hood. I then carefully placed the scoop down on the hood to transfer a little dot of paint to the hood. (It helps to have 2 sets of hands and one good set of eyeballs).
I then just drilled away where the paint dot showed the way. It turned out really great.
Tom
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Hey, for what it's worth, I'm in the same boat as you (69Again) doing a coupe restoration with the boy. At least that's the theory. My son is 15.5 and hasn't exactly burned the garage down with his enthusiasm to work on the car. I wonder if you're having a different experience.
Anyway, with regard to the hood, I used a pretty simple technique. Once I knew the distance from the back of the hood (which actually is easier to eyeball), I put a tiny drop of paint on the end of the studs that bolt the scoop to the hood. I then carefully placed the scoop down on the hood to transfer a little dot of paint to the hood. (It helps to have 2 sets of hands and one good set of eyeballs).
I then just drilled away where the paint dot showed the way. It turned out really great.
Tom
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Hey Marc, I couldn't seem to get any more attachments on this thread, so if you want more pictures, just post me your email address and I'll send them along.
tom
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Hey Marc,
I don't know how helpful this will be, but I took a few pictures when I took my 302 out of my coupe. I took some notes along the way as well.
Let's see...
Ok, I've got 3 pretty good pictures of the Alternator removal process.
I'll post another reply with 3 pix (lousier ones, however) of the P/S removal.
Am also including the notes I took along the way, but keep in mind i didn't expect to share these.
If it would help, I have an assembled 302 coupe outside and I could take some shots for you.
Tom
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I can't help you with your actual question, but I can tell you that you're not alone in your "organization" habits. At one point, I managed to lose a bolt for my fuel pump after seeing it about 30 seconds earlier. I tore the garage apart looking for it, I swear to god. The bastard just upped and walked away.
Wound up taking like my 30th trip to the H/W store for a replacement.
I have good intentions to stay organized, but after tearing 2 coupes apart, I have about 40 piles of little screws, bolts, and other odds and ends just mocking me.
You're in good company.
Tom
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Howdy, mine is a 302, but I don't know if there's a difference. It's a 3-hole, 2 pully jobber. I'll go measure the diameter now. I appreciate the response.
Tom
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Hi guys, so my Chilton manual has one sentence on this, but I'm just not quite getting the picture.
I'm trying to remove my door handles in prep for paint and I see the retaining screw easy enough, but the little bolt that holds on the non-button side would seem to be accessible only if I were the amazing rubber man.
Do I need to remove the glass to do this? God, I hope not. Any suggestions on how to actually get to that little bolt (window up/down, etc.)?
Many, many thanks for your advice.
Tom
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Yeah, I actually borrowed a puller and engine stand from a friend. As you surmised, it was the 3-legged variety. Getting that SOB off the ground was something.
At this point, I'm just crossing my fingers about the crankshaft. That would be dang awful if it was damaged, but the engine actually fell in an interesting way: I was able to hold onto long enough to minimize the height it fell from (nearly crushing myself in the process) and it wound up falling in mostly gravel. So, for what it's worth, it could have been worse.
Tom
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Hey guys,
As one of growing number of comedies around this father-son restoration, we managed to knock over the engine while on a stand and the weight of the fall pretty much dented in the main crankshaft pulley.
I'm wondering where folks might recommend I get a replacement. I've called all the local auto parts places (there aren't that many where I live) and they've all said I need to find a wrecking yard. Is that pretty much my fate here?
And by the way, I also need exhaust manifolds (one is broken outright, the other is cracked) and am wondering where folks would go for stuff like this.
As usual, my thanks.
Tom
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Howdy gents,
So, my gas cap fits really loose and wobbly on one of my coupes and snug as a bug on another. The difference is the orientation of the flange on the filler neck. On the car where the cap fits snug, the flange is on the INSIDE of the trunk, exposing just the lip of the opening through to the outside. This arrangement appears to be riveted together.
On the car where the cap fits lousy, the flange is on the OUTSIDE of the trunk and bolted through from the outside. I have pictures of both below for your enjoyment.
So, my question is: which orientation is correct and, if it's the OUTSIDE mounting, why does my cap fit like crap? I'm guessing it should be bolted from the outside (that's what my Chilton manual seems to show), but I can't figure out how to make the cap snug.
For what it's worth, I've tried switching the caps, but they fit the same way as I described above, so i'm reasonably sure it's not the caps themselves.
As always, your wisdom and advice is most appreciated.
Tom
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As always, excellent information. I really do appreciate it, guys. And SPS, I appreciate the hint about the 3M product for the jambs. That sounds like a great time-saver. I'll definitely give you a shout if I get stuck. But you're right, this is a lot of work, but I find myself enjoying it now. At first, I was just overwhelmed with everything (little bit of rust here, broken bolt there), but now that I've been through so much, problems don't hurt as much ;)
But there are so many things about paint that I just don't quite get, but I'm muddling through!
Thanks again, guys.
Tom
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Hi guys, I am getting *really* close to paint and I have yet another rookie question. Thanks in advance for any wisdom.
Regarding the underside of the hood, trunk, trunk lip, door jambs, etc....
Do I paint this with the same Urethane Base Coat and Clear Coat I plan to use for the exterior, or is it more practical to use a single-stage color coat on these parts and forgo the clear coat (to save cost)?
As I type this, it does seem odd to buy 2 types of paint for the same car, but I figured it was worth asking.
And finally, in terms of order, is it recommended to paint the jamps first (base then clear), then mask that off for the exterior job? If this is correct, then I suppose you wind up going through the whole process once for the jamps (and so forth) and the whole thing again for the exterior.
Just trying to get my crap together before the big job. Thanks again for all your assistance, guys.
Tom
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Just removed my engine and tranny (whoo!) over the weekend, and my bolts most certainly had lock-washers.
Tom
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I use something called "The Rust Doctor". It's pretty amazing stuff. Goes on super fast with a brush and chemically converts the rust to some inert form that can be painted after about 15 minutes. I bought a gallon online for about $30-something and I've used it extensively on both of my rust-bucket 69's. I still have about 25% of it left!
I can recommend it.
Tom
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69again, that is totally the part! You da man. I'll have to peruse that site for some of my other obscure parts needs.
Pakrat, thanks for your reply. I also have one bent up version I was going to straighten out in a pinch, but the other one was gone entirely.
Thanks again!
Tom
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Hi guys,
Wondering if anybody can help identify a support bracket that sits between the inner bumper arm and the front valance of the coupe. I've snapped a pic of it and the part has a piece of green masking tape on it for your enjoyment.
I've scoured the Virginia Mustangs catalog, called them, and looked at other sites, but I cannot locate it.
If anyone knows the actual name or, better yet, how to get 2 of them, I'd be most grateful.
(This is where I wish I knew how to weld/torch sheet metal and could make my own).
Tom
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Thanks, guys. In hindsight, I made this worse for myself in that I cleaned up and painted cups from 2 cars and didn't even consider they were different. I'll go back through the pile now and match up them up as directed here.
As always, I get great info here.
Tom
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(Didn't get any replies to my last stupid question, so hoping for better luck this time)
I'm trying to put the dang headlight assembly back in my donor car and am just going nuts trying to get this right.
For starters, is it super-crucial to orient the headlamp a certain way? In other words, so it aligns parallel with the ground? I've got 2 of them in now and when I put them on tonight, the light seemed to be concentrated in a line up and down (if that makes any sense), not from left to right. It was like looking through a cat's eye aligned vertically.
Also, the crappy little "cup" the lamp goes in has 3 little tabs that seem to want to accept the tabs on the back of the lamp itself. The problem is the orientation is different on all the "cups" and it's just damn impossible (so it seems) to get the lights to line up correctly. Should they just fit nice and snug in these cups?
If someone could explain the big picture to me here, I'd be most grateful:
Q: Headlamps need to be oriented "right side up"?
Q: Is there a method to lining up the bulbs in the cups?
Q: Is there a distinction between HIGH/LOW on these cups?
Q: Does anybody else thing this light assembly is awful?
Thanks!
Tom
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Hi guys, am finally putting my fiberglass-frankenstein back together and am encountering a number of "which fastener goes here" issues. This will probably be one of many posts, if you don't mind.
SHINY CHROME GRILL PANEL ATTACHMENT
I can see the panel attaches with several small stainless screws along the back edge, but I don't know what fastens the left-most and right-most rear mounting points that overlap the light bucket chrome-like panel. I believe the entire front edge is fastened with those trim bolts, but the rear corners have me stumped.
Hopefully, these photos will reveal what I'm saying. The rear-right hole is the mystery.
There's no "clip" attached below to accept a larger fender-like bolt, so i'm suspecting that it requires some kind of very large sheet metal screw or a nut/bolt combo.
Confused and help is appreciated.
Tom
Removing shift lever for carpet replacement
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
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Oh man, you just saved me SO MUCH frustration! Consider yourself hugged in the most manly way possible. :)
Seriously, thanks. The torx nuts have gotten me two times during this project (the seat belts being the first), but fortunately, I dug through my pile of tools/bits and there was a T-10! It came out like a champ and I'm back to installing carpet with enough daylight.
God, I love this site.
Thanks very much.
Tom