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foothilltom

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Posts posted by foothilltom

  1. Posted · Report reply

    Howdy folks, I've searched the forum and found more than one reference to a clock that spins CRAZILY fast when 12V is applied to it. The thing is, I couldn't really find the answer.

     

    My clock wasn't working at all, I took it apart, lubed the millions of little gears, spun it manually, tested it with 12V and DAMN that thing started to zoom. This clock would probably good on planet Lepton IX, but here on Earth, it's about 120 times too fast.

     

    Anybody have experience with this?

     

    Finally, I hear about Quartz replacement. Perhaps that's the better answer, but I wouldn't know where to begin on that.

     

    Thanks!

    Tom

     

    p.s. Who is Tachman? Is that a user on this forum? I see his name mentioned in context of clocks.

  5. Posted · Report reply

    Hi again gents,

     

    Am trying to get this sucker running smoothly (it isn't) and I've realized that something called the "Choke Heat Tube Connection" is wacky on this car and need some advice.

     

    For starters, it looks like the threaded connection to this part of the carb was replaced with a rubber tube "jammed" inside the port on the carb. That doesn't sound entirely good.

     

    Second, the tube looks like it should go to the exhaust manifold, which it did not when I bought it. The tube went to one of the vacuum connections on the intake manifold. Since then, I've replaced the cracked/rusty exhaust manifolds with headers, which has no such connection anyway.

     

    So I guess my question is: should I locate and buy the necessary stuff to make that choke heat tube thread into the carb, AND, where would you recommend I attach the heat tube to? Is the intake manifold good enough?

     

    I'd be happy to attach a picture...just need to grab the camera. Thanks!

     

    Tom

  6. Posted · Report reply

    Howdy gents, I'm in something of a pickle here.

     

    I'm having some electrical issues to my instrument cluster and cannot trust my engine temp gauge at this point. Yet, I'd really like to let the motor run to dial in the carb, test for vacuum leaks, timing, etc.

     

    Is there some kind of external sensor I can directly attach to give me an idea if my motor is going super-nova? Or, is there some "home remedy" for knowing when your motor is running hot other than it bursting into flames? I've run the motor for about 30 seconds now and again, but I'm hesitant to let it go too long w/out some sense of engine temp.

     

    Thanks in advance!

     

    Tom

  12. Posted · Report reply

    Hi folks,

     

    Just replaced my stock instrument bulbs with those cool LEDs I saw mentioned in a post here. They are most definitely brighter (when I run power to them myself).

     

    Alas, my instrument lights will not illuminate when everything is connected. Using my voltmeter, I've determined that I'm not getting 12v to the spots on the main connector (to the instrument cluster) that *should* light the lights.

     

    Not having any wiring diagram for that big connector, I basically ran 12V manually across the various terminals until I saw lights come on, so I can pretty much say the bulbs work and the circuit board is good (though old).

     

    So my FIRST STUPID QUESTION is:

     

    * Does anybody know where I can find documentation for what each of the terminals on that main instrument connector means? Trial and error seems like a bad way to go.

     

    When I pull the light switch to the first position, I get two lights: the shifter light and the ignition switch courtesy light, so my gut tells me the switch may not be bad. Which leads me to my next (and final) stupid question:

     

    * If any of the lights work, can the light/dimmer switch still be bad?

     

    In summary, no instrument lights work and I don't appear to get 12V to the terminal positions that connect to the circuit board. The circuit board seems OK to me as I can apply 12v myself and get them to light up. I have NO IDEA which terminal does what and my Chilton manual doesn't cover it.

     

    Thanks VERY MUCH for you wisdom, folks.

     

    Tom

  13. Posted · Report reply

    Howdy gents,

     

    Am in the re-assembly phase and -- of course -- I'm either missing or have lost tons of fasteners.

     

    Of particular interest to me is what I believe are called "u-nuts" or "cage nuts". Are there two different sizes for attaching the fenders? The u-nuts along the top seem larger to me than those that attach the fender to the little bracket in the front, but I could just be mis-remembering.

     

    I guess I'm wondering if there are different sizes and if folks have a good suggestion for where to get a good supply of each w/out paying through the nose.

     

    Thanks as always!

    Tom

  14. Posted · Report reply

    You know, the project is finally starting to turn a corner. I'm sure you can all relate. This "Father-Son" project has become more of a "Father-Father-Son-if-you-can-find-him" project, but that's the way that goes. The thing is painted, just got the motor/tranny back in and now I'm working on the inside (electrical, etc.). I'd say it's getting close to 65% done.

     

    I've learned a whole bunch, but still get snookered so often. This forum is just such an excellent resource for me.

     

    I'll get some pictures here soon. When I put the fenders and hood back on, it'll be worth a photo. I'd have to give it an 8.1 out of 10, but that's mostly for effort.

     

    The boy wanted Grabber Orange (originally green) and I must say it stands out. Today, I got the motor started for the first time in 6 months or more. The exhaust is off and just the headers had it sounding like at least 2 horsemen of the Apocalypse. It was a fun moment. My wife scurried inside covering her ears, so it was all good.

     

    I believe the lights on my dash were mostly working, but they're so god-dang dim, it was almost impossible to see them. LEDs are going to be ordered.

     

    I can't wait to get to the soft trim. Anyway, I've rambled, but that's mostly because I just got off the lake for some night-fishing with my brother in law, which turned into mostly drinking.

     

    Thanks for everything fellas. Have a good Labor Day weekend.

     

    Tom

  16. Posted · Report reply

    Hey gents,

     

    My Chilton manual says jack-squat about how to do this. I've got the dash pad out, the instrument cluster out, but the "lower" panel that holds the light/ignition/wiper/etc switches is still in.

     

    I'm trying real hard to figure out how to remove the light switch to replace it (see my earlier thread about dash lights no worky). Crawling under the dash is hard, but I still don't see how to remove this puppy. Do I pull real hard on the knob to remove it first? I feel like I'm on the cusp of breaking something I'll regret, so I'd really appreciate any step-by-step (dumb head) instructions on how to remove this.

     

    As I stare at it, it looks like it wants to come out through the front of the dash, but the actual switch behind the dash is huge, so i'm wondering if they separate somehow.

     

    If I need to take the entire lower dash out, that looks like a lot of work, lots of wires to disconnect and so forth, but I'm willing to do it if necessary.

     

    Thanks so much in advance. Frustrated in Auburn,

     

    Tom

  18. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks guys. If I might follow up...

     

    My Chilton shop manual says bugger-all about removing/installing the headlight switch and I'm just trying to understand what all has to come out first before I can attack the switch.

     

    Is it necessary to remove the instrument cluster first? From where I'm sitting right now, it seems exceedingly hard to get ones body under the dash to remove the switch -- nor do I see how the switch even attaches to the dash.

     

    I hate to be such a dumb-arse, but I don't know where to begin on this. I suppose I could just start taking things apart but I'll probably wind up removing way more than I had to.

     

    Any thoughts/resources on removing that switch would be most appreciated.

     

    Thanks!

    tom

  19. Posted · Report reply

    I've been reading with much interest the stuff about dash lights not working, bad light switch, poor grounds, LEDs, etc., but MAN I have an even dumber question first:

     

    Where in tarnation are the dash bulbs and how does one get at them?

     

    I have the dash pad out of my 69 coupe and I'm staring at the instrument cluster. I can see the thing everyone must be calling the circuit board strap, but hell if I can find where the bulbs actually live. If anyone could dumb this down for me a bit, I'd be most grateful.

     

    Whilst I have youze here...

     

    My instrument lights do not illuminate in the "parking light" position. My shifter light and ignition key light do work. All other lights work. The light/dimmer switch looks old as Moses, so I'm happy to try replacing that.

     

    My 8th grade edumacation tells me to start with the bulbs, but since ALL of them aren't working, I'm thinking it's something else.

     

    My shop manual mocks me every time I reference it. It says things like "remove the bulb and replace it". Clearly, this is not written for a guy of my skill.

     

    Thanks VERY much for anybody that can help me out of this latest jam.

     

    Tom

  22. Posted · Report reply

    Howdy gents,

     

    According to the door tag of my 69 coupe, I have a C6 3-speed tranny. However, when I bought a transmission filter for it, the size/shape wasn't even in the ballpark. So my stupid question for today is: how does one most easily determine what transmission one has?

     

    The pan of my transmission is rectangular...almost square. The gasket/filter that doesn't fit seems to have an odd, non-rectangular shape.

     

    I wanted to know the score before I went back to my parts store.

     

    Thanks VERY much for any advice/info.

     

    Tom

  23. Posted · Report reply

    Howdy gents,

     

    According to the door tag of my 69 coupe, I have a C6 3-speed tranny. However, when I bought a transmission filter for it, the size/shape wasn't even in the ballpark. So my stupid question for today is: how does one most easily determine what transmission one has?

     

    The pan of my transmission is rectangular...almost square. The gasket/filter that doesn't fit seems to have an odd, non-rectangular shape.

     

    I wanted to know the score before I went back to my parts store.

     

    Thanks VERY much for any advice/info.

     

    Tom

  24. Posted · Report reply

    Howdy gents,

     

    Am painting a restomod-coupe with a 2-stage system (PPG). Grabber Orange w/Black stripes is the plan, followed by Clear.

     

    It's my understanding that one must apply the clear coat within a very short timeframe (like a matter of hours) to promote best adhesion and stabilize the coat underneath. Other than the logistical issues of getting all this done in one day (with one gun and a garage), I have a more pressing question:

     

    We want to do black Shelby Stripes on top of the Orange. It seems like a disaster waiting to happen to tape the color coat within just an hour or so of painting, spray the black, remove the tape, and get ready for clear. Must one really jam all this activity into a short window?

     

    Wouldn't the tape simply pull up the uncured color coat?

     

    I'm wondering how to space out these activities w/out compromising the stability of the overall system.

     

    Any comments, ideas are most welcome. We've committed to doing this ourselves, so ideas like "let the pro's do it" are already well understood.

     

    Thanks!

    Tom

  25. Posted · Report reply

    Howdy gents,

     

    Am painting a restomod-coupe with a 2-stage system (PPG). Grabber Orange w/Black stripes is the plan, followed by Clear.

     

    It's my understanding that one must apply the clear coat within a very short timeframe (like a matter of hours) to promote best adhesion and stabilize the coat underneath. Other than the logistical issues of getting all this done in one day (with one gun and a garage), I have a more pressing question:

     

    We want to do black Shelby Stripes on top of the Orange. It seems like a disaster waiting to happen to tape the color coat within just an hour or so of painting, spray the black, remove the tape, and get ready for clear. Must one really jam all this activity into a short window?

     

    Wouldn't the tape simply pull up the uncured color coat?

     

    I'm wondering how to space out these activities w/out compromising the stability of the overall system.

     

    Any comments, ideas are most welcome. We've committed to doing this ourselves, so ideas like "let the pro's do it" are already well understood.

     

    Thanks!

    Tom

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