first69

Half the frame is gone

I talked to James at spi and I will try it there way. Sounds like they know what there talking about

Ospho, prep and ready. One paint supplier says one thing to use and one says another. Thought I would prime with Spi epoxy or other brand. I do Have rust to treat before I prime. What have you all used before epoxy primer to treat rust. I can't cut out all the rust. I won't have a car if I do, just pile of sheet metal.

I need a good replacement right quarter extention

What should the gap between q. extention and the tail light panel be where they meet at the center of outer tail light. Measurements between quarter extention and openings in the the tail light panel for the lights.pics would help to see it as well

After a lot of time reading about epoxy and por15 ,I feel por is best to do the interior of the car due to surface rust that I can't blast off in areas you can't get to. I talked to body shops that do just restored cars. Both use poor when surface rust is present. To get good bond follow directions to the letter and it will come out good.

After a lot of time reading about epoxy and por15 ,I feel por is best to do the interior of the car due to surface rust that I can't blast off in areas you can't get to. I talked to body shops that do just restored cars. Both use poor when surface rust is present. To get good bond follow directions to the letter and it will come out good.

I have read so much about epoxy vs. Por15. Above wheel well , you can't blast backsides of frame metal and there is some surface rust. Epoxy won't slow the rust much' por should. Epoxy is user friendly to use unlike por. But epoxy does nothing for rust. I am fine with black por inside the car cause most will be hidden. What's your thoughts?

Seeing surface rust on the underside of the quarters and between trunk and back glass.won't hit everything with blasting but will hit most with por15 in one way or another. The area between wing window and wheel well is another area you cant blast what you can't see like the back sides of some of the sheet metal frame work..if por15 stops rust dead is it better to paint it all

Can you just por15 the roof complete

Some say much bigger and farther apart.was thinking quarter inch drill bit and inch and quarter apart

Getting ready to weld in transition pan and trunk pan. How far apart should Wells be apart and what size holes would be best? I por15 the inside of rear rails and sprayed weld tru primer on the top of rails. Think that its about all i can do for future rust control on the inside and between metal.

I did support the rear quarters and still hasn't moved, leaf spring was so wore out the hole was way bigger and rail is almost rusted out. thinking cut off the old, place the new in and measure and place as square. just not sure that the old isn't bent from weakness due to rust.

rear rail is pretty bad shape, wonder if they are bent sence the leaf spring hole was just wore out

I see to measure from leaf spring center front left to other side rear leaf center. I can get it to square but moving it all right. frame is closer to one side than other by half inch. I don't know if some wear on rear torque boxes has moved measurements enough. am I tring to much for square? they weren't made perfect square

have to push rail to the right to get square. ends up being about half inch closer to right well than left. so stuck till I understand why

getting ready to replace partial rear frame rails and transition pan and shock support. found a 70 mustang chart. is it the same? how far are rails apart? what is the diagonal and from what points?

I am near wi border and lake michagan. I will light prime now and bead blast it down the road

top of car has lots of surface rust. I have sanded all paint off and loose rust but still have rust stained areas. some metal is clean and other is blackend. Is it ok to now just clean and prime several times?

can this be installed as one piece? do you have to have at least one rear frame out to install it

is there a way to install this welded as one? does one of the rear frames have to come out to get it in? I do need trunk pans and floor pan. but I see it welds to top and bottom of rear frame. or is it best to do repair to it if possible

removed rearend and its a 8 inch, 2.79. kinda disappointed in the gear ratio, pulling engine next week and interior. finding way to much rust.

hinge rebuild kits, worth the the time and money?

good shape? how much?

how much for tail lights and buckets