SELLERSRODSHOP

i'll see if I can dig up a post on stangfix that gives a good how to on narrowing an explorer 8.8 to fit under an early mustang. they can be easily narrowed 3" by shortening the tube & using another short side axle. not sure if you are looking for an exact width if you already have wheels or not, but this is an interesting read. I have one behind my shop right now with 3.73 trac loc we picked up at pull a part for around $125. we went ahead & swapped out the long axle for a short one while taking it out so saved the price of an extra one. http://67.20.110.53./index.php?PHPSESSID=89bk7grhbs95h6vhi700av8r25&topic=11946.0

haven't done any on a mustang but should be a simple procedure. mustang doors have much more room inside than the older 30's/40's cars I've put them in. cant quite picture the mustang latch in my head, but it may make it simpler to weld a second tab to the one that the inside handle hooks to & make the connection there instead of trying to work on the outer side of the door behind the glass.

heres my 68 I built in the 80's. 70 351c/c6/9" with 4.11's.

nice job! maybe i'm a little biased....

I have the same setup (302, c4 to t5 swap) & didn't have to cut the driveshaft.

windshields are laminated, all other glass is tempered.

finally got around to pulling the t5 out that I put in last summer. it whined like my ex, so figured there were some previous abuse issues. i'll be temporarily installing another spare t5 that has been inspected & checked out o.k. while the other one gets a rebuild to "z" specs with a few other upgrades. opened it up & it has a lot of chipped teeth & broken pieces in the bottom. if the temp tranny works & tests well, i'll start thinking about stripping for paint soon.

1) I spray all my cars along with a bunch of others out there. the acapulco blue shouldn't be any more problematic than any other metallic. 2) yes, epoxy is what you will want to use on bare metal. 3) correct, do the outer body last. 4) it makes for a cleaner job with headlight extensions, qtr end caps etc off, just depends on what you are looking to accomplish with the job. show quality or decent looking driver? 5) lead was the ticket back in the day, but there are better quality, longer lasting, easier to use products now. buy quality fillers & products & you will be o.k. stay away from the cheap, pink "bondo" brand stuff you see at autozone etc. its cheap in price for a reason. 6) spray a few test panels first. use a QUALITY paint gun, not a $9 harbor freight special. good guns are out there without spending $600 for a new SATA. devilbiss "finish line" guns are great for the price for occasional use. spray that color wet, with a wide fan & let the flake settle & flash well between coats. take your time & let it set overnight & clearcoat the following day. less chance of the clear reactivating the base & moving the flake in spots. i'm sure you have seen silver cars with "tiger stripes"? they were cleared too soon. 7) the only thing special about spraying a vert is don't worry about the roof!:lol:

if you prefer to build it yourself, here is a link to dazecars site: http://dazed.home.bresnan.net/spring

I would have given you the wife if you had left the shed out of it. a good shed is hard to replace!! :blink: got a local guy with a 64.5 that I've been trying to push in your direction for a dash harness.

got a question: not sure if its just the picture, but are the brake & fuel lines made from copper tubing on that car? not sure if I would want to trust braking pressures to copper tubing over time...

what is it with mustangs & brit cars? I recently picked up a 66 triumph tr4a for my next project. gonna drop in a 5.0/t5 & narrow an 8.8 out back.

sorry, things did get busy over the weekend. will try to locate those drawings today....

if done correctly, it will hold up pretty well. best stuff you can use is SEM dye in a spray can available from most auto paint stores.

to get the proper backspace from the specs you listed for the wheel above (5.3") you would need to get one full inch of material removed. I haven't seen many wheels with that much extra to spare. try this first: do some research on those wheels. when I was in the market, I first found ridler, but the b.s. wouldn't work. I then ran across the boss 338's which were the exact same wheel & the b.s. worked on those. a couple weeks later, my dad purchased a set of foose wheels & they ended up being the exact same wheel too, again with different offsets available. 3 different brands, all the same wheel but b.s. available was different on all three. from what I hear, American racing gets many of their wheels made overseas. may end up finding the same wheel under a different name.

i'm running 20x10 on the rear with 295/35 tires. no problems at all. they are 6.8" b.s. with 1/2" spacers to get them to 6.3" b.s.

you guys be nice to midlife! he's got a curse he can send you over the net if you don't...:eek:

IIRC the only difference in the years was the spacing of the holes where it meets the cowl. the early 65-66 Shelby cars had 4 evenly spaced mounting holes, everything else had a larger spacing in the middle with two holes on either side. I ordered the black one from Virginia mustang & its heavy guage metal & fits well. had a couple chrome ones in the past but the chrome quality was crap.

I have the drawings off of one. had a guy who bought one of the aftermarket crossmembers, then brought it to me wanting me to build him one that was a little beefier with better exhaust clearance. the one he bought was a flimsy p.o.s. in my opinion. i'll make a note to get those drawings I made off of his out tomorrow & put some measurements on them if you want.

saw a bb car once that had never been wrecked with the factory sheetmetal that had the bb reinforcement on one side, but not on the other.

I produce a 10 piece reinforcement kit that is sold thru opentracker racing http://www.opentrackerracingproducts.com/ if you need any installed pics let me know.

yes, a rod end from summit. actually, its the 5/16x24. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-MSF5/

i had a hurst quarter stick in the last mustang i put an aftermarket shifter in. really liked it once i got used to how it worked.

if you don't change the rear gear, the t-5 would be better IMHO. back in the day, the fox 5.0's had a 2.79 (or 2.7something) as standard with the 3.08 as optional gearing. i just finished swapping my original c-4 for a t5 with a hydraulic clutch system & love it so far. i didn't buy a kit, i purchased a master cyl & slave cylinder & made all the brackets & crossmember myself so only have about $600 in everything for the swap. i like automatic for my daily drivers, but my toys need 3 pedals...

looks like it may have been photoshopped. seems like an awful lot of red/purple in the windshield & grille surround. color looks like the old vw or mopar rally green