SparkyGT

Hey there, im just working on the 66 at this time, though i havent done much on it for a bit. But if you are around i may show you the messy garage.

i think my 70 coupe may have a bit of rust in that piece, i will take a peek anyways

even consider a new aftermarket block, .060 is a bit much. The sad part is i have scrapped many blocks which u probly could have used.

well, its good to hear your keeping at it, reminds me of my 66 coupe, was a $500 car and was rusty, my buddy offered to do the bodywork, and he is a journeyman bodyman, so he cut me a great buddy deal, otherwise that car woulda went to the field and sat. he did alot of rust replacement, and it was altogether cheaper than getting a "new" shell. so its painted and ready to put back together. metal work guesstimate woulda be in the 30k range at a shop. as for shipping, if youu ever go to maine, they may have some of those border storage locations like we have out west, way cheaper to ship to the usa border, then hop across and pick up your parts.

nice job so far.

aero shapes, or spray test panels, when i was getting my 66 colors in order, i had 4x6 plastic cards with different spray test for colors, you can bend them to see how it reflects light, a few places will spray a plastic mixer container as well, so you can see the color on curves.

Thanks for you hardwork !

your welcome, it does look a lot different, i was thinking about moving the mustang emblem in the grill further right but left it where it was

your welcome, it does look a lot different, i was thinking about moving the mustang emblem in the grill further right but left it where it was

looking good, i have looked into stang a holics so thanks for the info in this thread on fit and such. depends if i can find original fiberglass for mine i suppose. nice engine with 500 hp, are you going to run subframe connectors?

welcome to the forums

:yes: all those pics will keep you busy im thinking

I guess it depends mike on if you have other mods on the car, rims ,etc. those ones that myself and grendi posted are kinda reminiscent of the older AC cobra wheels.

wow that rear tray looks cool, did you install those side panel back side pieces/glassed in to support the shelf? and did the grille trim ring come from stangaholics also?

wow, my shelby isnt close to that bad for rust, and a normal fastback like mine wouldnt get done around here. there are still some fb's out in fields that need floors, and a 428scj fb that i have my eye on that has been hit hard in the pass door.

i better clarify, the two big screws at front on the opening (slotted screws) the back didnt have studs to interior, they were screwed on at rear corners and bondo'd over. grill trim, i think mine may need replacing or refurbishing big time, let me know what you end up doing

well glad it helped some, I have a 70 grande parts car, I haven't looked in a while but im thinking they trimmed some original fenders by the looks of it, but am not sure if the front nose is different as the shelbys are a touch longer. im glad I seen your post about the fiberglass to begin with, this may help me lots in my project GT350 where I stalled on the front fiberglass. being a early car, mine may have some differences over the later ones. my side scoops had the big screws at front, we couldn't figure on how they were held on, after taking apart interior, we seen that there were some small Philips screws that were through the scoop with filler overtop, first ones to take the scoops off, as they were repainted over, but orig car color underneath. a buddy of mine did a clone a few years back, with branda parts, he had to straighten the hood on a hot day by piling books on it to get rid of the bow. and for the fenders, it had some metal strips glued on over top of the fiberglass lips where the fender bolts down along the engine bay. this may help with some cracking problems, I think more like cover the cracks.

lol pakrat, she is a French-canadian gal, better off to just download a big torrent pic collection.

i did the big one quickly

I don't think they make that one now, I had some older grant ones, but without the holes they had the longer slots, looked ok. I also used to take the grant 4 spoke and paint the spokes to match interiors or the exterior colors.

well figure if you spend all new on front aftermarket suspension and a better than leaf spring rear end setup. the price climbs fast, I figured I would build my 66 coupe project for around 15k, well now its probly going to be double. and I wont be road racing lol. some pockets are deeper than others, one guy local built his 30's ford, and he has probly around 150k + in it.

There are kits that put a full frame under a mustang shell. more for road racers, and gets rid of unibody flex I suppose here is one example http://www.schwartzperformance.com/1964-1973-mustang-chassis-full-frame/

the rear interior sides are a pain, you can build them up from the back to repair them, I have to do same thing, so the thing is, you can repair, but when repainting you also have to think about the paint building up and covering the pattern. on my 66, I ordered new doors, it had the pattern in the metal areas, after painting and clearing you hardly notice, it looks all smooth.

here are a few of the driver fender, you can see how the lip is steel and bonded to the rest of the fender this is an original driver in my storeroom, patched up though. I have an earlier branda passenger that is all fiberglass and wavy as ever, and a really beat up passenger that we grabbed off the ground when we got the car way back. my plan is to eventually see if I can get some originals that are good shape or buy some aftermarkets, cut them up and bond my metal mountings on. not sure if this really helps you at all.

the mounting lip that goes from rad support back to the firewall on mine are all steel, the fiberglass is molded on. I think that's what you mean? my car is a early Shelby I will see if I can snag a picture with my phone.