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Desertdave

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Posts posted by Desertdave


  1. On 1/12/2021 at 9:00 AM, stangs-R-me said:

    Never seen a '69-70 Coupe with that style spoiler on it.   It does look like a Camaro styled spoiler, guess it looks ok.   

    Looks like it is a '69 (has '69 rear window trim) but with a '70 taillight panel ... but then trying to call it out as a Shelby too with gas cap & lettering on trunk lid is a little too much.

    Any more pics of this thing out there ??

    Doug   

    Here is a different one.

    mustang spoiler1.jpg


  2. 5 hours ago, smh00n said:

    Put in a stealth kill switch.

    Hooked the MSD white wire to the cigarette lighter. Push in the lighter, the engine cranks but won't fire. (Mustang thieves don't read Mustang forums. DO they?)

    Fixed a rattle in the rear. Turns out it was the 3 light conversion for the tail light that was vibrating with the stereo. A bit of silicone sorted it out.

    I've been trying to think of a great place for a killswitch.


  3. On 11/2/2018 at 12:42 PM, rays69mach1 said:

    https://youtu.be/JPuVxIYLNXM      I installed new lower control arms and now the lower ball joints have movement in them like they are worn out. Has any else had this problem? 

     

    I watched your video, those ball joints are no good! That's a shame after all that work you did and now you have to tear back into it. I used all Moog suspension on my lifted Jeep and everything was great. Bought the problem solvers from RockAuto. 


  4. 16 hours ago, det0326 said:

    I used the CPP upgrade kit. It is a 13.8:1 ratio and i love it. I have been running it now for about 2 years. Seems that it was around 500 and something. It came with steering box,Pittman arm and rag joint.  I am running a serpentine set up from a bronco and the bronco pump, works great.  The first one I received developed a squeak so I returned it for a replacement. Everything has been working good so for.    I have never had a problem with return to center with this box. 

    What is a CPP upgrade kit?  Just curious.


  5. 17 hours ago, bryonbush said:

    Look at steeroids or unisteer. Borgeson set up without the pump is close to 1k, then custom hoses being another few hundred, pump is another few hundred as well. Just this weekend I had to put all new seals in the pump which adds another $20-30 for the seals and fluid. For the hassle this has been, even another few hundred dollars to not have to constantly have leaking hoses, blown gaskets in the box, and pumps that leak is worth it. 

    You can buy all the stuff you need directly from Borgeson's site for $850, box, pump and hoses. Even if you upgrade to rack and pinion steering, whose power steering pump and hoses are you going to use? Fords pump is pretty noisy from the get go. So you still have the potential for leaks in any scenario you do.


  6. 3 hours ago, lanky said:

    Many/most racks don't require shock tower elimination. Since I read of other people with the centering problems, it isn't a one time occurrence type of issue. Same with leaky pumps, which I should add they haven't changed. All I can do is inform others of my experience. 

    I would be interested in seeing the kits you are referring too. Because all the conversion kits I have found require a cradle to be installed.


  7. On 10/19/2018 at 7:03 AM, rittenrotton said:

    I have a 70 coupe with a crate 302 and fast multiport efi...I have only put about 4,000 (+/-) miles on the motor but the exhaust smell is killing me. I have heard that adding catalytic converters to your exhaust will help to clean up the smell and not affect performance much. Just curious to hear some input about this..has anyone done this or know of a way to reduce the exhaust smell? 

    Just curious, what tranny do you have attached to that motor?


  8. 9 hours ago, 1969_Mach1 said:

    I have the 14:1 ratio box.  So far it works great.  There is a tremendous amount of assist with the Saginaw power steering pump.

    I would suggest if the O.P. decides to go the Borgeson route, buy the pump and hoses from them as well.  Return the hoses if you ultimately make your own.  But buying everything from Borgeson eliminates any finger pointing to the mfg.'s of the other parts if something ever happens.

    If I remember correctly, the 14:1 steering boxes are an all new part including the castings.  The older 16:1 boxes were rebuilt Toyota units and modified to fit Mustangs.

    If you buy it from CJ Pony parts, they are still a reman product. If you buy directly from Borgeson it is a new manufactured part. Its about a $100 more buy well worth it I think.


  9. 17 hours ago, lanky said:

    If you want a power rack you can't find anything for the same price as a borgeson setup, however in retrospect I still wish I shelled out the extra $$ and went rack the first time. That said, I haven't tried their newer 14:1 ratio boxes.

    My pump has ~2000 miles and is really noisy. I had to trim the pump mount spacers quite a bit for the pulleys to line up properly...much more than I should have had to for a bolt on kit. 

    I can't emphasize enough how bad the steering feel is. The car doesn't want to go straight (especially at freeway speeds) despite multiple alignments at a good shop and tons of caster.

    I have done an exhaustive search on this upgrade and everyone gives it a 4 or 5 rating. There have been a few 1's and that related to receiving a defective part from the get go. Everyone can't talk well enough about how much better the steering is going down the road and even better at freeway speeds. So if your unit is steering worse than a factory one I would have to say you have a defective gear box. If your pump is noisy it is probably defective as well.

    To go the rack and pinion route is a major modification task. Removing the shock towers and installing a new cradle. Then if you are going that far while you are in there fussing you may as well convert to the coil over suspension and then the $$$ start adding up.


  10. On 10/19/2018 at 9:02 PM, bryonbush said:

    A quick search here will show you my experience with them. The Saginaw pump leaks like a sieve now. Dont waste your time with their hoses. Get some custom ones made that will allow them to go under the car, then up to the box or through the fender area. You'll fry the hoses they provide quickly if you drive a lot. The money I have into the box, hoses (few custom sets) and pump, I'd go rack. I was in your spot where every place an original PS could leak did and was in dire need of rebuilding. CJ had a sale and it was slightly cheaper than having everything rebuilt or replaced. That quickly became very expensive. Some people have been very happy and trouble free, but not for me. 

    What rack and pinion setup can you buy for the price you have invested in your parts? They start about $2,000 and go up from there. Just curious?


  11. 14 hours ago, RogerC said:

    Been working on my front bumper/lower pan/airdam a couple of evenings a week and on saturdays for a couple of weeks now. Making some progress. Brake ducts going where the front marker/turn lights were. Some smaller rectangular lights replacing them just inboard of the bumper brackets in the slot between the bumper & pan. Inspired by the Pantera.

     

    IMG_0238.JPG

    3GO.jpg

    Not quite sure what exactly I am looking at. Is that rusty metal below the valance?


  12. Hey guys I ran a compression test on my motor today. I bought the car with a swap, it's either a 68 289 or a 69 302 im not sure and neither was the previous owner. I have some smoke coming out of the tailpipe and when I removed the driver side breather had a little blow by coming from the valve cover. The plugs were covered in oil and the 8th cylinder was reading 65 psi and the 1st cylinder was reading 90psi. Do you think the cause is bad valve stem seals, bad piston rings, or both? Money is very tight right now so trying to figure out what to do. Also if there is any temporary fixes for atleast a short time to reduce the smoke and help boost compression please let me know as money to rebuild a new motor is not really feasible right now. Thanks a bunch

    How did you conduct your compression check? Did you do a wet and dry test?


  13. Hey Ridge, Im surprised you haven't gotten your hands on or at least tried to make a Shelby De Mexico Rear Spoiler ( but now I understand you didn't have any coupe to go off of.) 

     

    I for one have been looking for a "Duck Tail" I really dislike the shelby tail and can't understand why no one has made a revised version or custom version of the spoiler. I've seen a Camaro rear spoiler added to a 70 coupe but some cutting was involved to that spoiler to go along with the contours of the trunk and end caps. 

     

    oh and definitely stay away from Maier fiberglass..they are thin and quality is terrible, I recently went back there to look at their Wheel Flares (just out of curiosity)...not impressed.

     

    idk... I had ideas of going with that nascar rear type spoiler but i think I would ruin the look of the car. 

     

    added pic for reference.. DSC01623.jpg

     

    Camaro spoiler

     

    0013_zps3kxnztmj.jpg

     

    0004_zpsdaq2eeyk.jpg

    So it looks like that person grafted a 70 taillight panel onto a 69 body? Am I not correct? Looks great.


  14. Installed new stainless steel hood pin set on the 70 coupe.  Now they make the originals on my 69 look like dirt.  Another job on the list.....

     

    Changed out a blown brake light on the 69 Mach 1. 

     

    Big day :)   But I had to remove a busted throttle cable from my GSXR1000.  Then drive across town to get a new one, then reinstall it and adjust it.  That killed my day.  I had come from a 120 mile ride, and the throttle cable broke 200 yards from my house.  Lucky...in one way.

    Pictures??

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