buening

Excellent!  Message sent. The rear curves are what is all jacked up on the ones I got (plus the 1/4" extra width). See pics, bent ends are from NPD and they confirmed all are like that.  I thought they were banged up during shipping.
The one pic of the nice but overly curved one is from CJ Pony. The stamping is less crisp than the NPD one. 
 
 

For rear window install the following may be helpful after learning from my mistakes from misinformation on other forums: 
 

2013-2018 ATS.  Rock Auto doesn't have a core charge for those and they are brand new, whereas other more popular ones like Mustang require cores. 
The CTS has a different caliper for a larger rotor and won't work well with the smaller 13" rotors. I got my brackets roughed in yesterday and am making adjustments to my CAD file.  I'll start a new post on this once I get things wrapped up.

2013-2018 ATS.  Rock Auto doesn't have a core charge for those and they are brand new, whereas other more popular ones like Mustang require cores. 
The CTS has a different caliper for a larger rotor and won't work well with the smaller 13" rotors. I got my brackets roughed in yesterday and am making adjustments to my CAD file.  I'll start a new post on this once I get things wrapped up.

For those looking into DIY Brembo's, the Cadillac ATS calipers are $125 new with no core charge from RockAuto and are much cheaper than the Mustang version (double the price).  They do have Cadillac print on them so you'd want to paint them. Unlike the Mustang Brembos, the Caddilac ones are made for 13" rotors so the arch of the pads work better than the Mustang ones on smaller diameter rotors. I'm currently working on brackets very similar to RPM's to use them on the 13.2" mustang GT rotors, as I have 17" rims so I can't have 14" rotors like RPM.
 
I started out with Wilwood Superlite calipers to adapt to the 13.2" Mustang GT rotors, but the pads were too small and only covered a bit under 3/4" of the rotor. I then found the Cadillac Brembos which the pads match perfectly..

For those looking into DIY Brembo's, the Cadillac ATS calipers are $125 new with no core charge from RockAuto and are much cheaper than the Mustang version (double the price).  They do have Cadillac print on them so you'd want to paint them. Unlike the Mustang Brembos, the Caddilac ones are made for 13" rotors so the arch of the pads work better than the Mustang ones on smaller diameter rotors. I'm currently working on brackets very similar to RPM's to use them on the 13.2" mustang GT rotors, as I have 17" rims so I can't have 14" rotors like RPM.
 
I started out with Wilwood Superlite calipers to adapt to the 13.2" Mustang GT rotors, but the pads were too small and only covered a bit under 3/4" of the rotor. I then found the Cadillac Brembos which the pads match perfectly..

Excellent job Bigmal!  Definitely not too difficult once you get it all planned out.

Excellent choice on the suspension upgrades!  Some day I hope to do the same.  As you know we have twin cars with the same wheel and tire package.  I've been mulling the MTF minitub as well but may just pie-cut and reweld the area where the tire rubs on the front inside wheelwell to get me by until the suspension upgrades.  Keep us in the loop on how the install goes!
 
Regarding the 7/16" for Vintage Venom, one thing you may consider is swapping out the VV bracket and spacer for the Mustang Steve brackets. Those have a 2 piece offset caliper bracket, which avoids the need for the 7/16" spacer for caliper alignment. You'd be $200 into those brackets, which has got to be easier than shortening your axles and tubes (plus pulling all of that and getting it to a shop).

Excellent choice on the suspension upgrades!  Some day I hope to do the same.  As you know we have twin cars with the same wheel and tire package.  I've been mulling the MTF minitub as well but may just pie-cut and reweld the area where the tire rubs on the front inside wheelwell to get me by until the suspension upgrades.  Keep us in the loop on how the install goes!
 
Regarding the 7/16" for Vintage Venom, one thing you may consider is swapping out the VV bracket and spacer for the Mustang Steve brackets. Those have a 2 piece offset caliper bracket, which avoids the need for the 7/16" spacer for caliper alignment. You'd be $200 into those brackets, which has got to be easier than shortening your axles and tubes (plus pulling all of that and getting it to a shop).

Excellent choice on the suspension upgrades!  Some day I hope to do the same.  As you know we have twin cars with the same wheel and tire package.  I've been mulling the MTF minitub as well but may just pie-cut and reweld the area where the tire rubs on the front inside wheelwell to get me by until the suspension upgrades.  Keep us in the loop on how the install goes!
 
Regarding the 7/16" for Vintage Venom, one thing you may consider is swapping out the VV bracket and spacer for the Mustang Steve brackets. Those have a 2 piece offset caliper bracket, which avoids the need for the 7/16" spacer for caliper alignment. You'd be $200 into those brackets, which has got to be easier than shortening your axles and tubes (plus pulling all of that and getting it to a shop).

Budget?
One of the better ones out there:  http://www.streetortrack.com/Street-or-Track-Front-Coilover-System-pr-24491.html

Budget?
One of the better ones out there:  http://www.streetortrack.com/Street-or-Track-Front-Coilover-System-pr-24491.html

Budget?
One of the better ones out there:  http://www.streetortrack.com/Street-or-Track-Front-Coilover-System-pr-24491.html

Don't be afraid to epoxy tabs onto the inside of the mirror housing.  I'm wrapping up my electric mirror mods using SN95 mustang motors, and used bent sheet metal tabs epoxied to help stiffen up the mounting plate. 

No problem! These motors are also the same as the Fox body mustang's, but dont have the detachable plastic mirror backing. It is instead plastic riveted/fused. I found out the SN95 mustang's use the same mirror motor for either side, which caused initial headache with the switch I used which had specific LH/RH motors. I was getting the LH motor going down when I was pressing up on the switch. Swapping the wires around fixed that!

Pic of the switch from an early 2000 ford (F150/Mustang/etc), which I also have an aluminum/chrome knob and bezel that I may still add on since the original knob and bezel was chrome.

Pic of the switch from an early 2000 ford (F150/Mustang/etc), which I also have an aluminum/chrome knob and bezel that I may still add on since the original knob and bezel was chrome.

Pictures of my drivers mirror.  Not the same motors you are using, but may provide some ideas to help you. The SN95 motors have a removable plastic backing that snap off the motors (the black plate shown in the last picture).  I trimmed it down to the size of our mirrors. My mirror glass is currently at the glass place being cut.

Passenger side.  I cut down the existing lower tab due to the extra thickness of the motors, and then re-tapped it.  Epoxied tabs to the roof of the housing, and used a flat plate for the bracket to mount the motors to.   Another tip, look into the early 2000 ford mirror switch.  With a little enlarging of the mustang deluxe door panel mirror hole, the switch looks like it was made to be there!
 
 

Passenger side.  I cut down the existing lower tab due to the extra thickness of the motors, and then re-tapped it.  Epoxied tabs to the roof of the housing, and used a flat plate for the bracket to mount the motors to.   Another tip, look into the early 2000 ford mirror switch.  With a little enlarging of the mustang deluxe door panel mirror hole, the switch looks like it was made to be there!
 
 

There is also an outer bumper bracket that installs on top of this one
 
https://www.cjponyparts.com/bumper-bracket-front-outer-driver-side-1969-1970/p/BB3OL/

If you want a drag radial for the back that will have good street manners (wet driving, noise, etc), the NT555R tires are more popular with the street guys.  You get more life out of them and are more of a street/drag hybrid, rather than the full out nearly-slicks tread pattern of the NT05R.   You could go with NT555R in the back and NT555 in the front.
 
 
 

Be careful with generic widths, like 295 and 275.  The actual tire width varies by manufacturer so take the width with a grain of salt. One manufacturer's 295 can be the same width as another's 315.  Member Grabber70mach had a handy little comparison a few years back, but for some reason I can't find it.
 
Below is a link to my combination, 17x10.5 with 315/35 and even after using a BFH in the front inside corners of the wheelwell and rolling the quarter lips it rubs during a turn or pothole. I will be tweaking the inner wheelhouse sheetmetal to add reliefs to alleviate the rubbing. If you want bolt-on with no work and no rubbing, don't go this wide.
 
 

Be careful with generic widths, like 295 and 275.  The actual tire width varies by manufacturer so take the width with a grain of salt. One manufacturer's 295 can be the same width as another's 315.  Member Grabber70mach had a handy little comparison a few years back, but for some reason I can't find it.
 
Below is a link to my combination, 17x10.5 with 315/35 and even after using a BFH in the front inside corners of the wheelwell and rolling the quarter lips it rubs during a turn or pothole. I will be tweaking the inner wheelhouse sheetmetal to add reliefs to alleviate the rubbing. If you want bolt-on with no work and no rubbing, don't go this wide.
 
 

This is an old topic from me, but when reviewing my signature links for dead pictures I realized I never created an actual thread about it here on 69stang (just on the VMF). For those that enjoy fabricating their own stuff to save money, I've created a PDF with dimensions to create your own eccentric eliminators. Its really easy to do as long as you can accurately centerpunch and drill the holes. Once one plate is made, use a transfer punch using the completed plate onto the 2nd plate. Harbor Freight has transfer punches in case you don't have any, they are handy when replicating parts.
 
Attached below is the PDF as well as pics below, not of the actual fab'd plates but of what the aftermarket versions look like.
 
The numbers on the drawing are intended to be stamped into the plate so that you can keep track of the orientation of each plate. The numbers are sequential to the slight changes in camber. There is also a small hole drilled near the lower left corner, also to help with orientation. I also notice many have updated their plates to only include 2 holes. I only have the 3 hole version, but if someone has the two hole one I'd be curious how the dimensions measure up. My guess is they don't allow for as fine of camber adjustments as the 3 hole does.






Eccentric Eliminator Plate.pdf