buening

Drill Hog and Bad Dog bits (possibly the same bits/company) are the only ones I know of with a lifetime replacement guarantee.  I have no experience with them though.   I very recently decided to splurge and bought a $100 set of M7 HSS Norsemans because I have some higher strength 1/4" plate that my Dewalt and other box store bits wouldn't touch.  The bit went through he steel nicely but the dang thing chipped on first use, so not exactly happy about that. Gonna see how Norseman's customer service is.  I specifically didn't get cobalt bits due to that concern, yet HSS did it too. 
 
Also, Norseman, Viking, and many others are all the same bits anymore.  I'd be surprised if Drill Hog and Bad Dog didn't source theirs from the same location....

Drill Hog and Bad Dog bits (possibly the same bits/company) are the only ones I know of with a lifetime replacement guarantee.  I have no experience with them though.   I very recently decided to splurge and bought a $100 set of M7 HSS Norsemans because I have some higher strength 1/4" plate that my Dewalt and other box store bits wouldn't touch.  The bit went through he steel nicely but the dang thing chipped on first use, so not exactly happy about that. Gonna see how Norseman's customer service is.  I specifically didn't get cobalt bits due to that concern, yet HSS did it too. 
 
Also, Norseman, Viking, and many others are all the same bits anymore.  I'd be surprised if Drill Hog and Bad Dog didn't source theirs from the same location....

I created CAD and PDFs of the drop mounts that mimic the Ron Morris ones (posted on VMF).  Send me a message if you're interested in them.   I'm running 1" drop and slid the motor back 1.25".  Stock oil pan, hooker long tubes and steering clears OK, but had to fabricate an engine crossmember (or buy ZRAY's).  I have a post on VMF for my crossmember as well as CAD/PDF, if you are into fabricating your own stuff.  My engine mounts use the rear leaf spring shackle bushings, so you have the option of using rubber or poly

I created CAD and PDFs of the drop mounts that mimic the Ron Morris ones (posted on VMF).  Send me a message if you're interested in them.   I'm running 1" drop and slid the motor back 1.25".  Stock oil pan, hooker long tubes and steering clears OK, but had to fabricate an engine crossmember (or buy ZRAY's).  I have a post on VMF for my crossmember as well as CAD/PDF, if you are into fabricating your own stuff.  My engine mounts use the rear leaf spring shackle bushings, so you have the option of using rubber or poly

I created CAD and PDFs of the drop mounts that mimic the Ron Morris ones (posted on VMF).  Send me a message if you're interested in them.   I'm running 1" drop and slid the motor back 1.25".  Stock oil pan, hooker long tubes and steering clears OK, but had to fabricate an engine crossmember (or buy ZRAY's).  I have a post on VMF for my crossmember as well as CAD/PDF, if you are into fabricating your own stuff.  My engine mounts use the rear leaf spring shackle bushings, so you have the option of using rubber or poly

Excellent!  Message sent. The rear curves are what is all jacked up on the ones I got (plus the 1/4" extra width). See pics, bent ends are from NPD and they confirmed all are like that.  I thought they were banged up during shipping.
The one pic of the nice but overly curved one is from CJ Pony. The stamping is less crisp than the NPD one. 
 
 

For rear window install the following may be helpful after learning from my mistakes from misinformation on other forums: 
 

2013-2018 ATS.  Rock Auto doesn't have a core charge for those and they are brand new, whereas other more popular ones like Mustang require cores. 
The CTS has a different caliper for a larger rotor and won't work well with the smaller 13" rotors. I got my brackets roughed in yesterday and am making adjustments to my CAD file.  I'll start a new post on this once I get things wrapped up.

2013-2018 ATS.  Rock Auto doesn't have a core charge for those and they are brand new, whereas other more popular ones like Mustang require cores. 
The CTS has a different caliper for a larger rotor and won't work well with the smaller 13" rotors. I got my brackets roughed in yesterday and am making adjustments to my CAD file.  I'll start a new post on this once I get things wrapped up.

For those looking into DIY Brembo's, the Cadillac ATS calipers are $125 new with no core charge from RockAuto and are much cheaper than the Mustang version (double the price).  They do have Cadillac print on them so you'd want to paint them. Unlike the Mustang Brembos, the Caddilac ones are made for 13" rotors so the arch of the pads work better than the Mustang ones on smaller diameter rotors. I'm currently working on brackets very similar to RPM's to use them on the 13.2" mustang GT rotors, as I have 17" rims so I can't have 14" rotors like RPM.
 
I started out with Wilwood Superlite calipers to adapt to the 13.2" Mustang GT rotors, but the pads were too small and only covered a bit under 3/4" of the rotor. I then found the Cadillac Brembos which the pads match perfectly..

For those looking into DIY Brembo's, the Cadillac ATS calipers are $125 new with no core charge from RockAuto and are much cheaper than the Mustang version (double the price).  They do have Cadillac print on them so you'd want to paint them. Unlike the Mustang Brembos, the Caddilac ones are made for 13" rotors so the arch of the pads work better than the Mustang ones on smaller diameter rotors. I'm currently working on brackets very similar to RPM's to use them on the 13.2" mustang GT rotors, as I have 17" rims so I can't have 14" rotors like RPM.
 
I started out with Wilwood Superlite calipers to adapt to the 13.2" Mustang GT rotors, but the pads were too small and only covered a bit under 3/4" of the rotor. I then found the Cadillac Brembos which the pads match perfectly..

Excellent job Bigmal!  Definitely not too difficult once you get it all planned out.

Excellent choice on the suspension upgrades!  Some day I hope to do the same.  As you know we have twin cars with the same wheel and tire package.  I've been mulling the MTF minitub as well but may just pie-cut and reweld the area where the tire rubs on the front inside wheelwell to get me by until the suspension upgrades.  Keep us in the loop on how the install goes!
 
Regarding the 7/16" for Vintage Venom, one thing you may consider is swapping out the VV bracket and spacer for the Mustang Steve brackets. Those have a 2 piece offset caliper bracket, which avoids the need for the 7/16" spacer for caliper alignment. You'd be $200 into those brackets, which has got to be easier than shortening your axles and tubes (plus pulling all of that and getting it to a shop).

Excellent choice on the suspension upgrades!  Some day I hope to do the same.  As you know we have twin cars with the same wheel and tire package.  I've been mulling the MTF minitub as well but may just pie-cut and reweld the area where the tire rubs on the front inside wheelwell to get me by until the suspension upgrades.  Keep us in the loop on how the install goes!
 
Regarding the 7/16" for Vintage Venom, one thing you may consider is swapping out the VV bracket and spacer for the Mustang Steve brackets. Those have a 2 piece offset caliper bracket, which avoids the need for the 7/16" spacer for caliper alignment. You'd be $200 into those brackets, which has got to be easier than shortening your axles and tubes (plus pulling all of that and getting it to a shop).

Excellent choice on the suspension upgrades!  Some day I hope to do the same.  As you know we have twin cars with the same wheel and tire package.  I've been mulling the MTF minitub as well but may just pie-cut and reweld the area where the tire rubs on the front inside wheelwell to get me by until the suspension upgrades.  Keep us in the loop on how the install goes!
 
Regarding the 7/16" for Vintage Venom, one thing you may consider is swapping out the VV bracket and spacer for the Mustang Steve brackets. Those have a 2 piece offset caliper bracket, which avoids the need for the 7/16" spacer for caliper alignment. You'd be $200 into those brackets, which has got to be easier than shortening your axles and tubes (plus pulling all of that and getting it to a shop).

Budget?
One of the better ones out there:  http://www.streetortrack.com/Street-or-Track-Front-Coilover-System-pr-24491.html

Budget?
One of the better ones out there:  http://www.streetortrack.com/Street-or-Track-Front-Coilover-System-pr-24491.html

Budget?
One of the better ones out there:  http://www.streetortrack.com/Street-or-Track-Front-Coilover-System-pr-24491.html

Don't be afraid to epoxy tabs onto the inside of the mirror housing.  I'm wrapping up my electric mirror mods using SN95 mustang motors, and used bent sheet metal tabs epoxied to help stiffen up the mounting plate. 

No problem! These motors are also the same as the Fox body mustang's, but dont have the detachable plastic mirror backing. It is instead plastic riveted/fused. I found out the SN95 mustang's use the same mirror motor for either side, which caused initial headache with the switch I used which had specific LH/RH motors. I was getting the LH motor going down when I was pressing up on the switch. Swapping the wires around fixed that!

Pic of the switch from an early 2000 ford (F150/Mustang/etc), which I also have an aluminum/chrome knob and bezel that I may still add on since the original knob and bezel was chrome.

Pic of the switch from an early 2000 ford (F150/Mustang/etc), which I also have an aluminum/chrome knob and bezel that I may still add on since the original knob and bezel was chrome.

Pictures of my drivers mirror.  Not the same motors you are using, but may provide some ideas to help you. The SN95 motors have a removable plastic backing that snap off the motors (the black plate shown in the last picture).  I trimmed it down to the size of our mirrors. My mirror glass is currently at the glass place being cut.

Passenger side.  I cut down the existing lower tab due to the extra thickness of the motors, and then re-tapped it.  Epoxied tabs to the roof of the housing, and used a flat plate for the bracket to mount the motors to.   Another tip, look into the early 2000 ford mirror switch.  With a little enlarging of the mustang deluxe door panel mirror hole, the switch looks like it was made to be there!
 
 

Passenger side.  I cut down the existing lower tab due to the extra thickness of the motors, and then re-tapped it.  Epoxied tabs to the roof of the housing, and used a flat plate for the bracket to mount the motors to.   Another tip, look into the early 2000 ford mirror switch.  With a little enlarging of the mustang deluxe door panel mirror hole, the switch looks like it was made to be there!