buening

Anyone have a pic of the rear center belt from the exterior (axle view)? Trying to figure out what I'm missing. Is it simply a nut welded to the pan similar to what RPM shows? Thanks for the help!

Couple of questions. Do the rear seat belt bolts have the unthreaded portion near the bolt head, or is it entirely threaded? I have a collection of bolts from parts cars and it seems the majority of the ones have the upper portion unthreaded. Also, does the inner ones (buckles) utilize a nut on the exterior side or was there a nut welded to the floors? My car has the round cup-like disc spot welded to the floors, but no sort of nut/reinforcement like the rest of the seat belts. The PO put in aftermarket belts, and the bolt went through the floor pan, then there was a rubber disc that fit inside the metal cup spotwelded to the pans, and then there was a large washer and a nut. I couldn't dig up any pics online to show what is on original cars. Hopefully you guys can help.

Sorry to hear about your father, hopefully they get rid of the cancer with minimal chemo. That is awesome you go to take your father out in it for a ride, I bet you both were grinning from ear to ear the entire rest of the day!

Agree with the 3/16". While it may be thick, I bought a felt jute rug pad that is roughly 3/8" or 1/2" thick and used it between the package tray and the metal tray. I wasn't going for originality but rather to quiet down the noise coming from the trunk area. Package tray and hockey trim fit surprisingly. I was originally only going to use it behind the quarter pillar trim and the interior fiberglass quarter panels, but had some left over and used it on the package tray too. My repro package tray from NPD was cardboard and had a relatively smooth texture to it unlike the original texture finish. Here is a thread with some pics of the original insulation: http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=4806.0

If you have cash to burn or want the best steering possible, IMO go with the TCP rack. If you are on a budget or don't mind the old school feel, go with the rebuilt stock box and new control valve. Many people throw a new or rebuilt box on the car and still complain about sloppy steering. They often fail to look at the control valve, which was worn more than the steering box in both of my cars when I got them. Have someone turn the wheel within the range of the slop and while they are doing that, you peek down (or up from underneath) at the steering box arm and control valve. If the box arm moves in this slop range and tires don't move then you have a worn control valve. If the box arm doesn't move at all and the wheel is rotating within the slop range, then you have a worn box.

Yes there is. You can buy the sail panel insulation but it is not the correct shape. It would suffice if you were not worried about originality. The insulation is essentially felt juke carpet padding.

So how does one reproduce the grain on these repairs? I have a section on the top where it curves back to the sail panels that is scraped.

You may find this website helpful if you need to check things (note there are two pages to it): http://www.reincarnation-automotive.com/Duraspark_distributor_recurve_instructions_index.html I'm running the 10L in mine as well, and was pretty easy to swap out.

Good to know! Thanks for the info.

and here is some original straps http://www.ebay.com/itm/1969-Mustang-Mach1-Turn-Signal-Hood-Scoop-Shifter-Light-Wiring-Hanger-Straps-/390787513152?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5afcc03b40&vxp=mtr

While not 100% correct, could you use one of these? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Lincoln-Mercury-wiring-harness-retaining-clips-/140544361832?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20b918c568&vxp=mtr

Thanks for the info guys! I ordered the Jacquard kind I linked to above, apparently it bonds to nylon much better than the RIT kind.....so I'm hoping less of it will rub off or fade over time. I've read the RIT also makes the belts pretty stiff, but thats just from my forum/google searches.

Dynotech 4" steel with 1350 joints each end. Can be found for under $100 on ebay (NASCAR used ones, if you don't mind used), just make sure the length works for your application. They are typically not long enough unless you are using a longer driveshaft like a T56 or C6.

I recall reading how the lower 1" lip needs trimmed on the drop offs. This was awhile ago, is this still the case or are they a direct fit now?

I have a set of deluxe belts that I plan on putting in my car to replace the aftermarket ones the PO put in there. The buckles on the belts look pretty good but the webbing is pretty dirty and faded. Curious if anyone on here has cleaned and dyed their belts before? Any tips? From what I've found acid dyes are typically better and Jacquard is a respected brand. Its pretty cheap on amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Jacquard-Products-Acid-Dyes-Oz/dp/B0009IG11A/ref=pd_sim_sbs_ac_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1EXJ3C1P2TK3XHD2FWKM I was thinking of using that, but was curious what you did to clean the belts good and how you handled the white tags on the belts? Also did you just dip as much of the belt in the dye as possible since they are still attached to the retractor and buckle?

This may help: http://www.mustangsteve.com/fyi_brakepedals/msFAQbrakepedals.html

The closest you'll get from my knowledge is an AJE Racing front crossmember and suspension, which will utilize the 99 mustang spindles/brakes/rack and pinion. Thats a $2500 kit though, not sure of your budget. You will need to remove the shock towers to get the 4.6 to fit anyways, so you are looking at using an aftermarket suspension regardless (not cheap)

About time! LOL Car looks amazing man! Hope that shoulder heals soon.

I would do the DIY Lizard Skin in combination with the Dynomat. The Lizard Skin is good as a thermal insulator and Dynomat is good at panel dampening for sound. You can get the ceramic spheres (DIY Lizard Skin) from here: http://hytechsales.com/insulating_paint_additives.html

Are you done yet? :lol:

I assume you are talking about not an ink-stamp but rather physically stamped metal logo. It should be a horizontal Bendix with numbers below. I don't recall what the numbers stand for

Here are some pics of a Power Vent setup (this is a Cougar but Mustang is the same): More pics here: http://www2.cougarpartscatalog.com/p-vent.html

Local hardware or Menard's/Lowes will have them in the section where you can buy angle iron and sheet metal.

These pics may help. The 70 has a bend at the end of the arm, whereas the 69 does not. 70: 69

T56 all the way!