buening

Check the front floor board in case it leaked through the pedal rod into the interior. About the only place for it to go unless the brake fluid fairies suddenly got thirsty :lol:

Nice work and love the tight fit of those tube joints! I could be wrong, but I recall reading that a single diagonal is all that is needed on the rear cage and that the extra leg that makes it an X is just added weight.

Mike, As far as I know these are not reproduced in any fashion. The 67/78 bezels are the same but the wording on the red lens are different. The 67/68 says "Park" and "Seat", instead of the correct 69/70 "Brake" and "Belts". You could use something safe to plastic to remove the lettering and stencil your own on though. You are SOL in terms of getting new wiring though. Used is the only method, and they don't come cheap!

Same issue with the gap, but the valance is original but aftermarket CJ Pony front bumper. Most likely the bumper isn't bent correctly. Custom bracket is the only solution

The one below it (green) was from what I can tell a plain jane coupe. From what I can tell the ACC carpet matches pretty well to the originals in the pics. The ACC isn't exclusive to CJPony either.

Does it look like this? This is from CJ Pony and is ACC brand carpet: From what I can tell is an original Grande Coupe:

Yeah the stock door panels don't allow for anything much larger than a 4x6 speaker. Custom panels are the way to go if you are wanting a larger speaker than that. Someone on here did just that, but their name escapes me.

Typically originals are pretty beat up and in need of resto, which the resto can be as much as the repro panels. Gene Painter I think still restores these. You might do a google and see if he has a pair for sale already done and with all attachments. Otherwise, source the attachments through ebay. The only thing that may be expensive to ship is the long stainless trim, otherwise the rest of the parts are fairly small. There are "kits" on ebay with new repro panels, but are pretty pricey at $1200. You may find that is what Gene Painter wants for a pair of restored ones though.

Most people just drill a small hole in the cluster housing and install a simple LED for turn signals and high beam. If you are on a budget, you can get Autometer Ultra Lite, Phantoms, or Sport Comp gauges used on ebay for a reasonable price.

Yeah that definitely isn't factory installed!

One other option at a reasonable price (comes with pad and trim, and I have not affiliation with the seller): http://www.ebay.com/itm/Power-Brake-Pedal-for-1967-69-Mustang-Standard-transmissions-PBP-02-/321385677609?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1970|Model%3AMustang&hash=item4ad4144329&vxp=mtr

Dave, do the gauges work? That melted temp gauge is a classic example of when someone puts a tachometer cluster in a non-tach wired car. The non-tach cluster has the ammeter gauge in the left pod, so you get more amps pushing through the temperature gauge than what it was made for and often fries the gauge.

If you don't mind making mounting brackets, look into the Northern Cross Flow radiators. I personally am running the 28x19 Northern Crossflow/Race Pro (which requires the battery to be relocated to the trunk due to the width) and my car has never overheated. In fact, with my DCControls fan controller and the Taurus efan, the measured voltage from the fan controller was about 40% last time I checked after running it hard in stop-and-go traffic in 102° outside temp. If you want even better cooling, go with a dual pass crossflow radiator.

Kris, these are 70 cars not 69s.

Finally found one close enough and it is indeed a square nut.

Thanks!! I appreciate that. Thats very interesting. This must be another 69/70 difference. The only pic I could find searching google was a 70 Boss 302 below, note the round cupped washers like I mentioned mine looks like? I just can't find a picture close enough to show if it was a square nut or what.

Anyone have a pic of the rear center belt from the exterior (axle view)? Trying to figure out what I'm missing. Is it simply a nut welded to the pan similar to what RPM shows? Thanks for the help!

Couple of questions. Do the rear seat belt bolts have the unthreaded portion near the bolt head, or is it entirely threaded? I have a collection of bolts from parts cars and it seems the majority of the ones have the upper portion unthreaded. Also, does the inner ones (buckles) utilize a nut on the exterior side or was there a nut welded to the floors? My car has the round cup-like disc spot welded to the floors, but no sort of nut/reinforcement like the rest of the seat belts. The PO put in aftermarket belts, and the bolt went through the floor pan, then there was a rubber disc that fit inside the metal cup spotwelded to the pans, and then there was a large washer and a nut. I couldn't dig up any pics online to show what is on original cars. Hopefully you guys can help.

Sorry to hear about your father, hopefully they get rid of the cancer with minimal chemo. That is awesome you go to take your father out in it for a ride, I bet you both were grinning from ear to ear the entire rest of the day!

Agree with the 3/16". While it may be thick, I bought a felt jute rug pad that is roughly 3/8" or 1/2" thick and used it between the package tray and the metal tray. I wasn't going for originality but rather to quiet down the noise coming from the trunk area. Package tray and hockey trim fit surprisingly. I was originally only going to use it behind the quarter pillar trim and the interior fiberglass quarter panels, but had some left over and used it on the package tray too. My repro package tray from NPD was cardboard and had a relatively smooth texture to it unlike the original texture finish. Here is a thread with some pics of the original insulation: http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=4806.0

If you have cash to burn or want the best steering possible, IMO go with the TCP rack. If you are on a budget or don't mind the old school feel, go with the rebuilt stock box and new control valve. Many people throw a new or rebuilt box on the car and still complain about sloppy steering. They often fail to look at the control valve, which was worn more than the steering box in both of my cars when I got them. Have someone turn the wheel within the range of the slop and while they are doing that, you peek down (or up from underneath) at the steering box arm and control valve. If the box arm moves in this slop range and tires don't move then you have a worn control valve. If the box arm doesn't move at all and the wheel is rotating within the slop range, then you have a worn box.

Yes there is. You can buy the sail panel insulation but it is not the correct shape. It would suffice if you were not worried about originality. The insulation is essentially felt juke carpet padding.

So how does one reproduce the grain on these repairs? I have a section on the top where it curves back to the sail panels that is scraped.

You may find this website helpful if you need to check things (note there are two pages to it): http://www.reincarnation-automotive.com/Duraspark_distributor_recurve_instructions_index.html I'm running the 10L in mine as well, and was pretty easy to swap out.

Good to know! Thanks for the info.