buening

IIRC people with 351w in early mustangs have hood clearance issues so they use the 351w lower along with a 302 upper to minimize total intake height. Aftermarket or Cobra intakes are recommended if you want any kind of performance out of the motor. Just watch the port shapes between the upper and lowers. Some are round and some are rectangular.

I doubt you'll see any performance gains. If anything you'll see easier startups, better fuel economy, and the option to monitor/datalog things like AFR. It's not always a given, but most times a carb'd motor will crank out more horsepower than the equivalent EFI. Mostly my observations of many forums that I read, and why some people with factory EFI converts to carb that race. It doesn't equate to crap on a street motor though :tongue_smilie:

Or just go with a Powerjection http://www.professional-products.com/EFI_3.php

Good info. I'll install drop motor mounts before I cut the trans tunnel. What is your angle difference between the trans output and the axle pinion as you have it now? Nice to find out you two are the guinea pigs on the MD hydro clutch setup :huh: Maybe I should wait to buy until you guys get all the bugs worked out :tongue_smilie: I found the few threads on Stangnet about the clutch stop. I think the main thing to check is the max travel limits of the throwout bearing to what is actually occurring. They are mainly using the McLeod throwout, but am not sure what brand you are running. http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/721606-hydraulic-clutch-conversion.html http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/779634-should-i-remove-my-clutch-pedal-spring.html http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/714636-300zx-hydraulic-clutch.html

Yeah I'm aware of the differences and there are quite a few. I picked up the Cobra T56 for $900 and it only had 29k on the odometer, so I really couldn't pass it up. The main thing your thread will help me with is the Modern Driveline hydraulic clutch setup. I too have power brakes and am going from the auto FMX to manual, so your pics will be extremely helpful. Have you installed the MD crossmember yet? I'm curious how that works out. Another fellow that installed a T56 into his 67 convertible said that the MD crossmember needed to be modified heavily for it to work, and just ended up making his own crossmember. What exhaust are you planning on using? I have Hooker Comp long tubes with the Magnaflow 2.5" stainless with X-pipe. I'm a little worried about the X-pipe and header clearance, but I'll cross that road when I get there. I'm still gathering all the parts and won't be able to buy it in a huge chunk like you did. I was doing a search over on Stangnet for hydraulic clutch and a few members had mentioned in a thread about the pedal stop. That forum is blocked here at work so I can't provide a link.

The CVR is grounded to the metal gauge housing as well as there is a ground screw in the upper corner of the center metal gauge housing. When you bolt the cluster to the dash, screws go through the center metal gauge housing providing a ground path to travel from the metal dash. I seem to remember something about a change from 69 to 70 and there being a difference in harness grounding but it's been too long ago. Maybe others can clarify.

Excellent build. This will be especially useful for me since I'll be installing a Cobra T56 behind my windsor. I've read that you have to have a clutch pedal stop to prevent blowing out the seals on the hydraulic throwout bearing. I've read of a few people ruining their $400 TO bearings because of this. Have you head the same and have you installed a pedal stop?

Is this an auto or stick car? I'm not to familiar with Clevelands, but isn't there a port towards the back of the intake on the drivers intake runner that feeds the vacuum tree on the firewall? If this is indeed a 70 car, all cars that year had the vacuum tree on the firewall directly behind the motor.

The vent that gives the driver air at the floorboards is attached to the heater box by two plastic fasteners. I can't remember how I separated it though. You should be able to disconnect the defrost vent from the heater box and leave it attached to the dash. I do recommend loosening the bolts in the lower metal dash to swing it out some. You may have to remove the right side bolts completely if push comes to shove. Just be thankful you aren't working on an A/C car, you'd be in for a real treat :biggrin:

Dash tags are not available as far as I know. Sounds like a parts car to me unless the DMV can do a lost title search for you.

Sweet! Looking forward to the pics. Is this the one you are using? http://www.wilwood.com/PDF/fl193.pdf The flier says that both have the bolt on steering arm.

Reviving this thread from the dead. I'll be going the hydraulic throwout bearing route with my T56 conversion. I'd like to hear your or anyone's experience with any kits or hydraulic clutch conversions. Thanks!

Plug the connector into the back of the gauge cluster and but do not screw the cluster to the dash. Take your multimeter and verify the 12V wire has voltage. Follow that lead wire around the printed circuit and spot check each terminal.

408 for sure. Going any bigger like the 427w, from what I've seen and read, is a little harder on the piston skirts due to the rod length and shorter piston height. Longevity of the motor is a concern with builders when going with the 427w.