Jump to content

buening

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    2,172

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    12

Posts posted by buening

  1. Posted · Report reply

    Any updates?

     

    How was the install with the motor and trans together? With the longer T56, I bet it was a little challenging trying to clear the radiator support and stay clear of the firewall at the same time. My motor is already in the car and I installed the T56 from below. I installed the bell to the block first, then raised the trans and mated to the bell. It went smooth except I cannot reach the top passenger bolt :(

     

    Also, where are you measuring the angles for your driveline angle? I have my trans supported by a jack and need to measure the angles.

  2. Posted · Report reply

    They were an option and I believe they are part of the convenience group harness. I'm trying to remember if they were the clearish plastic relay with 3 or four prongs, or if they were the metal relay like here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NOS-1970-1971-Ford-Thunderbird-Headlight-Warning-Relay_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem946d3231QQitemZ2490184241QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

     

    I have a NOS one stashed away but it's been awhile since I've messed with the convenience group stuff.

  5. Posted · Report reply

    I have the same intake except not the polished version with an oval air cleaner. We just set the engine in today and mine will NOT clear. I am trying to decide on what drop base to use with Typhoon manifold and Holley 770 vacuum secondary. Anyone have any suggestions?

     

    What size oval air cleaner and where is it hitting? I shaved a bit off the mounting surface of the bottom air cleaner plate to gain a bit more clearance for a phenolic 1/4" carb spacer, but it fit fine without mods before without the carb spacer. If you are using the Cobra oval air cleaner then it is much longer than mine.

     

    If you need measurements of mine let me know!

  11. Posted · Report reply

    Oooh, been awhile since I installed mine but if I remember correctly the map light 2 wire connector plugs into the clock harness assuming you have a deluxe clock. I believe the two wire connector on the dash harness near the clock cluster can be used for the map light connector if you do not have a clock, but if you have a clock there will be a spare connector on the clock harness that the map light uses. As for the single wire on the map light, as you already know it is for the glove box switch. Did the map light come with this switch or do you have one?

     

    Here is a switch on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1970-MUSTANG-SHELBY-MAP-LIGHT-GLOVE-BOX-SWITCH_W0QQitemZ300377504460QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item45efe4facc

  12. Posted · Report reply

    Sounds like you may have the T5Z if it is aftermarket Ford. They are typically rated around at 330hp. Torque ratings make more sense for a transmission, but thats all I could find. There are other aftermarket T5 like the Astro or the G-Force which claims higher ratings but you have to shell out a ton of money for what you are getting. You will likely have a case failure before you break any of the internals on those modified T5. A TKO500/600 will get you higher strength for less money typically.

     

    There are numerous ford factory T5 and they all have different ratings depending on what motor they were behind and what year the car came from. Then there is the World Class T5 and a non-World Class T5.

     

    This link may help some: http://www.moderndriveline.com/Technical_Bits/t5_history.htm

     

    I have a good feeling that a blown 331 will have much more than a stock T5 or even the T5z can handle unless you have skinny tires out back to limit your traction.

  18. Posted · Report reply

    Keep in mind that the Mach hood scoop is fairly narrow compared to your typical round K&N air filter. You may get away with using an oval air cleaner, similar to mine below. It restricts some air due to the small size of the air cleaner area. For reference, my intake is the Professional Products Typhoon manifold, which I believe is equivalent to the Edelbrock Performer RPM and I have about 1/2" clearance to the hood with that air cleaner. It is not a drop air cleaner btw.

    Picture_023.sized.jpg

  19. Posted · Report reply

    IIRC people with 351w in early mustangs have hood clearance issues so they use the 351w lower along with a 302 upper to minimize total intake height. Aftermarket or Cobra intakes are recommended if you want any kind of performance out of the motor. Just watch the port shapes between the upper and lowers. Some are round and some are rectangular.

  20. Posted · Report reply

    I doubt you'll see any performance gains. If anything you'll see easier startups, better fuel economy, and the option to monitor/datalog things like AFR. It's not always a given, but most times a carb'd motor will crank out more horsepower than the equivalent EFI. Mostly my observations of many forums that I read, and why some people with factory EFI converts to carb that race. It doesn't equate to crap on a street motor though :tongue_smilie:

  22. Posted · Report reply

    Good info. I'll install drop motor mounts before I cut the trans tunnel. What is your angle difference between the trans output and the axle pinion as you have it now?

     

    Nice to find out you two are the guinea pigs on the MD hydro clutch setup :huh: Maybe I should wait to buy until you guys get all the bugs worked out :tongue_smilie:

     

    I found the few threads on Stangnet about the clutch stop. I think the main thing to check is the max travel limits of the throwout bearing to what is actually occurring. They are mainly using the McLeod throwout, but am not sure what brand you are running.

     

    http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/721606-hydraulic-clutch-conversion.html

     

    http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/779634-should-i-remove-my-clutch-pedal-spring.html

     

    http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/714636-300zx-hydraulic-clutch.html

  23. Posted · Report reply

    Yeah I'm aware of the differences and there are quite a few. I picked up the Cobra T56 for $900 and it only had 29k on the odometer, so I really couldn't pass it up. The main thing your thread will help me with is the Modern Driveline hydraulic clutch setup. I too have power brakes and am going from the auto FMX to manual, so your pics will be extremely helpful.

     

    Have you installed the MD crossmember yet? I'm curious how that works out. Another fellow that installed a T56 into his 67 convertible said that the MD crossmember needed to be modified heavily for it to work, and just ended up making his own crossmember. What exhaust are you planning on using? I have Hooker Comp long tubes with the Magnaflow 2.5" stainless with X-pipe. I'm a little worried about the X-pipe and header clearance, but I'll cross that road when I get there. I'm still gathering all the parts and won't be able to buy it in a huge chunk like you did.

     

    I was doing a search over on Stangnet for hydraulic clutch and a few members had mentioned in a thread about the pedal stop. That forum is blocked here at work so I can't provide a link.

  24. Posted · Report reply

    The CVR is grounded to the metal gauge housing as well as there is a ground screw in the upper corner of the center metal gauge housing. When you bolt the cluster to the dash, screws go through the center metal gauge housing providing a ground path to travel from the metal dash.

     

    I seem to remember something about a change from 69 to 70 and there being a difference in harness grounding but it's been too long ago. Maybe others can clarify.

  25. Posted · Report reply

    Excellent build. This will be especially useful for me since I'll be installing a Cobra T56 behind my windsor. I've read that you have to have a clutch pedal stop to prevent blowing out the seals on the hydraulic throwout bearing. I've read of a few people ruining their $400 TO bearings because of this. Have you head the same and have you installed a pedal stop?

×
×
  • Create New...