buening

I too am interested in this. The concourse burtex ones are pretty pricey, but the rubber backed version may be more my speed. PM me a price if you don't mind indianfiremach. Thanks

Are you using stock height mounts or drop mounts?

Have you thought about adjustable drop motor mounts?

You may have some tire bulge with the 9.5" rim width and a 315, so keep that in mind. Below is a link to my thread with the Sumitomo 315s on my car. Below the link is a handy figure Grabber70Mach put together. http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=9551

This is typically an indication that the rear brakes aren't working correctly. Does the car try to nose-dive when you hit the brakes hard? If so you either have air in the rear lines or the rear brakes aren't functioning correctly.

Good choice. Think it will look awesome!

See post #9 of the NOS spoiler measurement: http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=8316 Also a measurement from the 71-73 website (post #23): http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-rear-spoiler-help?page=3

Either a fine brush or go to an office supply place and see if they can make a rubber stamp from what is left.

The 69/70 and the 71-73 had the same length wing and same width wing, but the pedestals on the 71-73 were 3" narrower, which looks exactly like you have. The 69/70 pedestal spacing is 36" and the 71-73 is 33" (center to center of bolts through the deck lid).

Also keep in mind the constraints of wheel width and the stock leaf springs. Their rear suspension doesn't have the leaf springs, so it will allow the 12" wide rims. Without body flares you won't fit that much wheel or tire under there with leafs on the car. Just look at my pics of my 10.5" wide rims ;)

http://www.mustangandfords.com/featured-vehicles/mump-1202-1969-gateway-classic-mustang-coyote-wild/ You could always call Gateway and ask them if they recall how they handled the rear interior panels and bracketry.

Looks like someone hacked it up. A factory one should be oval in shape and lower on the door. That one looks a little high in my opinion. Below are measurements I made of my factory door: A little closer representation of the factory location (these seem cut, mine appeared punched at the ends):

Grills get installed after the door panel is in place. The bottom of the speaker grills should curve toward the door (get thicker), to make up for the change in thickness at that edge. Without the curve you'd have an open gap at the bottom since the grill sits on top of the door panel. I think standard door speaker grills do not have this curve since they aren't sitting on top of a door panel.

I'm running 315s on 17x10.5 with the stock wheelhousings and rolled lips. Just needed massaging in the lower front inner wheelwells. It rubs under mild cornering, but likely due to rubber leaf bushings or my weak 4-leaf springs. Tires are Sumitomos and wheels are American Muscle's anthracite Bullits. Clearance to front inner wheelhouse before massaging: Clearance to front inner wheelhouse after massaging: Clearance to leaf springs: The mini-tub is typically bound by the little tab shown in the below pic, which is for the fiberglass inner quarter trim. You could eliminate this tab and put a nut-sert through the wheelwell (use thread sealant on bolt), as well as removing the brace portion on the back of the fiberglass inner quarter trim. I have no experience with these, but they claim you don't have to modify your back seat (doesn't mention trim panels though!) http://www.autoworksparts.com/wheel_tub_kit.htm

You guys cut it out, you are making me want to get new wheels! Personally I like the look of the rivets/bolts, but they are a royal PIA to keep clean and detail! Something to consider. Here are Fikse FM5 rims on a fellow 69stanger: More pics: http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=2301

If you want to deviate from that diagram and use the ribbed pulley on the idler, then your second picture would be the correct belt routing.

Edit: Here is the diagram: Make sure your idler pulley doesn't have ribs on it. It should be smooth. Typically if the pulley is smooth, the back of the belt goes against the smooth pulley. If it is ribbed, then the ribs go against it.

You can also adjust the shaft of the UCA to add caster into the system prior to shims. See the following: http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/suspension-articles/480993-improving-caster-while-rebuilding-ucas.html I recall one of the aftermarket guys already doing this on their new stock replacement UCA arms (Shaun, Opentracker, etc....can't remember who)

Not to hijack but what keeps these panels attached near the column? I bought an aftermarket one (Ford tooling from CJ Pony part# SCC5L) and besides the two screws along the bottom, I don't see how its attached at the top. There are two spring tabs that separate the panel from the instrument cluster. Its just kind of flopping around and can see why tabs get broken if this is the case.

This should help: http://www.mustangtek.com/differential/Driveshaft.htm

I have seen that Belts one before and have yet to figure out why the change. Here is an expensive Convenience Group harness listed on Ebay, and it has the Park light that is similar to your Belts light. http://www.ebay.com/itm/331182512514?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 My guess is maybe a midyear supplier change.

Mustangs did not come with a hood light as far as I know. I went down this road before. I have a hood light that has a cougar part number and is a mercury switch, and it doesn't have any kind of shroud to it similar to a trunk light. The last one you show were dealer add-on lights.

Just noticed this. If you need any other measurements let me know. I have a spare lower dash in my basement with the factory punched holes. It even has the punched pieces still attached

The cam bolt on the LCA adjusts the camber. As you rotate the bolt, the cam washer moves the bolt out or in. Many people do the eccentric eliminators to avoid having a pothole ruin the alignment, but they are more challenging to get the alignment set compared to the eccentric. UCA shims were used on early mustangs since they didn't use the eccentric/cam bolt. If you can't get good camber with bolt adjustment and have to use shims, then something is wrong like sagging shock towers.

You can measure the angle with a level and tape measure (or caliper is preferred) to see where your camber is at. See here under Checking Camber: http://www.negative-camber.org/jam149/technical/alignment.html My tires have a visual appearance of tilting in and they are within Opentracker's specs