buening

My understanding is the splines' only purpose was to hold the bolt in place while the nut was tightened.

Mike, refresh my memory you did some mods to the rear wheelhouses to get those to fit with the car dropped that far....right?

No reinforcement or brackets on my factory dual exhaust Mach 1. Muffler hangers match that of Unkleen. The single exhaust 70 fastback has the same passenger hanger. I will note that it does not have the nuts welded on the drivers side for the dual exhaust. I would have to weld nuts or do nutserts if I wanted a factory dual exhaust setup.

I've found the following beneficial in tuning Holleys: http://www.nastyz28.com/~ericf/tech/htune.pdf Have you pulled the bowls to see if it has stock jets? I'd put larger secondary jets in to see if it gets rid of the bog. That bog is a classic sign of being lean. My 670 Street Avenger had a bad bog and the larger jets fixed it. Larger squirters are typically the last thing to mess with.

The Ford engineers improved the design in 70, as they found the 3 fasteners of the 69 didn't hold up too well to parking spot curbs and the such (thats my theory anyways). They increased the number of fasteners to something like 12 in 70 as well as change the texture and increase the thickness of the spoiler.

I assume you don't have a bead roller? Nice work so far! Following your build with interest and jealousy of your skills :)

Nice writeup! Regarding the question about controlling the passenger window from the drivers side, I would think a hidden toggle switch could direct the power from the drivers window switch to the drivers or passenger door window motor. Similar idea to how drivers and passenger power door mirrors on controlled by the driver on new cars. It might take a relay or two since multiple wires are involved (up/down).

This may help: http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=9551

I too am interested in this. The concourse burtex ones are pretty pricey, but the rubber backed version may be more my speed. PM me a price if you don't mind indianfiremach. Thanks

Are you using stock height mounts or drop mounts?

Have you thought about adjustable drop motor mounts?

You may have some tire bulge with the 9.5" rim width and a 315, so keep that in mind. Below is a link to my thread with the Sumitomo 315s on my car. Below the link is a handy figure Grabber70Mach put together. http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=9551

This is typically an indication that the rear brakes aren't working correctly. Does the car try to nose-dive when you hit the brakes hard? If so you either have air in the rear lines or the rear brakes aren't functioning correctly.

Good choice. Think it will look awesome!

See post #9 of the NOS spoiler measurement: http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=8316 Also a measurement from the 71-73 website (post #23): http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-rear-spoiler-help?page=3

Either a fine brush or go to an office supply place and see if they can make a rubber stamp from what is left.

The 69/70 and the 71-73 had the same length wing and same width wing, but the pedestals on the 71-73 were 3" narrower, which looks exactly like you have. The 69/70 pedestal spacing is 36" and the 71-73 is 33" (center to center of bolts through the deck lid).

Also keep in mind the constraints of wheel width and the stock leaf springs. Their rear suspension doesn't have the leaf springs, so it will allow the 12" wide rims. Without body flares you won't fit that much wheel or tire under there with leafs on the car. Just look at my pics of my 10.5" wide rims ;)

http://www.mustangandfords.com/featured-vehicles/mump-1202-1969-gateway-classic-mustang-coyote-wild/ You could always call Gateway and ask them if they recall how they handled the rear interior panels and bracketry.

Looks like someone hacked it up. A factory one should be oval in shape and lower on the door. That one looks a little high in my opinion. Below are measurements I made of my factory door: A little closer representation of the factory location (these seem cut, mine appeared punched at the ends):

Grills get installed after the door panel is in place. The bottom of the speaker grills should curve toward the door (get thicker), to make up for the change in thickness at that edge. Without the curve you'd have an open gap at the bottom since the grill sits on top of the door panel. I think standard door speaker grills do not have this curve since they aren't sitting on top of a door panel.

I'm running 315s on 17x10.5 with the stock wheelhousings and rolled lips. Just needed massaging in the lower front inner wheelwells. It rubs under mild cornering, but likely due to rubber leaf bushings or my weak 4-leaf springs. Tires are Sumitomos and wheels are American Muscle's anthracite Bullits. Clearance to front inner wheelhouse before massaging: Clearance to front inner wheelhouse after massaging: Clearance to leaf springs: The mini-tub is typically bound by the little tab shown in the below pic, which is for the fiberglass inner quarter trim. You could eliminate this tab and put a nut-sert through the wheelwell (use thread sealant on bolt), as well as removing the brace portion on the back of the fiberglass inner quarter trim. I have no experience with these, but they claim you don't have to modify your back seat (doesn't mention trim panels though!) http://www.autoworksparts.com/wheel_tub_kit.htm

You guys cut it out, you are making me want to get new wheels! Personally I like the look of the rivets/bolts, but they are a royal PIA to keep clean and detail! Something to consider. Here are Fikse FM5 rims on a fellow 69stanger: More pics: http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=2301

If you want to deviate from that diagram and use the ribbed pulley on the idler, then your second picture would be the correct belt routing.

Edit: Here is the diagram: Make sure your idler pulley doesn't have ribs on it. It should be smooth. Typically if the pulley is smooth, the back of the belt goes against the smooth pulley. If it is ribbed, then the ribs go against it.