buening

Metra AW-PW12 is what I'm using, which is what MikeTyler used in the above link. Hardest part is removing the door to get it installed.

Keep in mind when you lower the front you also mess with the suspension geometry quite a bit. Stepping up to the Bilsteins shocks will help some, but you won't get that new car ride since you are stuck with the messed up suspension geometry. Going to a coilover on LCA setup like SoT or TCP is an option, as it improves suspension geometry. SoT uses much better shocks compared to TCP. My front suspension isn't bad (mostly stock form), its the rear that drives me nuts. I have 4 leafs with Bilsteins and rubber bushings and feel every crack in the road from the rear and seems there is little cushion/give when hitting potholes or the full-width roadway patches that have settled.

Ah I didn't see that you got 1". I read you were thinking about 1/2" spacers, which are too thin to have studs.

Try Hose Fittings Etc in Fremont. They are a Parker fitting store and pretty sure they make hoses too. Call before you make the drive (510) 661-0151

Did you have to get longer studs? I went with Baer billet hubcentric 1/2" spacers on the rear of my car and lets just say the studs weren't long enough:

Yeah correction, mine grabs the upper part of the valance. Scared the crap out of me the first time it happened after I aligned the car!

Ah the joys of wide tires! Even with flares, you will still be restricted by the fender body line at full suspension travel (assuming you are tucking it high like shown in your pics). Your flares may be well into the body line bend nearest the opening. Another thing to watch (I'm sure you've done this) is to turn the steering from lock to lock, and watch the tire clearance to the fender and frame rails at full lock.....with caster set. At the caster I want on my car currently with stock suspension, the 245 tire rubs the fender at full lock. It appears I will have to build in some caster into my custom tubular arms assuming I ever get to that point. Its only taken me a year to build my strut rods :lol: Joys of having young kids i guess.

Wow that intake is a thing of beauty!!!

Wow that intake is a thing of beauty!!!

Based on my analysis the highest stresses are bending of the plate that attaches to the LCA due to braking and other out of plane forces. There is also a lot of tensile force on the clevis thru-bolt that attaches it to the frame, as well as the bolt that goes through the rod end but it is in double shear (twice the shear capacity). Indeed there are a lot more forces when you eliminate the bushing. However, see the link below. If that Falcon can handle hitting a tree at the tire and shear off the ball joints while the bushingless strut rod was still intact, then I'd say our worries are mostly put to rest :p http://www.stangfix.com/index.php?threads/falcon-versus-a-tree.16723/

Based on my analysis the highest stresses are bending of the plate that attaches to the LCA due to braking and other out of plane forces. There is also a lot of tensile force on the clevis thru-bolt that attaches it to the frame, as well as the bolt that goes through the rod end but it is in double shear (twice the shear capacity). Indeed there are a lot more forces when you eliminate the bushing. However, see the link below. If that Falcon can handle hitting a tree at the tire and shear off the ball joints while the bushingless strut rod was still intact, then I'd say our worries are mostly put to rest :p http://www.stangfix.com/index.php?threads/falcon-versus-a-tree.16723/

LOL, oh you guys! Actually as long as the tube was perfectly plumb it drilled in quite easily. It would occasionally get out of plumb and would lock up on the bit, but for the most part I was able to lightly grip it with mechanics gloves on. Actually, tapping the ends was harder than drilling it! Mike the swedge tubes should be fine for street driving. Lots of people have used them and I haven't really heard of anyone bending or snapping them. I was in a fabrication mood so I figured I'd go all out and do the DOM route.

LOL, oh you guys! Actually as long as the tube was perfectly plumb it drilled in quite easily. It would occasionally get out of plumb and would lock up on the bit, but for the most part I was able to lightly grip it with mechanics gloves on. Actually, tapping the ends was harder than drilling it! Mike the swedge tubes should be fine for street driving. Lots of people have used them and I haven't really heard of anyone bending or snapping them. I was in a fabrication mood so I figured I'd go all out and do the DOM route.

I bought a 2' length of 7/8" OD x 0.156 wall DOM tubing, cut it in half for the two strut rods, and threaded one end in 5/8"-18 LH thread and the other 5/8" - 18 RH thread. The ID of the tubing is just a tad smaller than the 37/64" drill size for the tap, so I had to drill it to that (which is a bit of a challenge drilling straight without a lathe). I used 4 of the welding triangle magnets atop my drill press table to keep the tubing vertical and plumb (going through the hole in the center of my table), then held the tube with my hand below the drill press table with a glove on and drilled it out. Once I had the drill press head centered over the tube it was pretty easy. Lots of tweaking till that point though.

I bought a 2' length of 7/8" OD x 0.156 wall DOM tubing, cut it in half for the two strut rods, and threaded one end in 5/8"-18 LH thread and the other 5/8" - 18 RH thread. The ID of the tubing is just a tad smaller than the 37/64" drill size for the tap, so I had to drill it to that (which is a bit of a challenge drilling straight without a lathe). I used 4 of the welding triangle magnets atop my drill press table to keep the tubing vertical and plumb (going through the hole in the center of my table), then held the tube with my hand below the drill press table with a glove on and drilled it out. Once I had the drill press head centered over the tube it was pretty easy. Lots of tweaking till that point though.

Hey that clevis CAD drawing looks familiar ;) This post is ironic, as I am almost finished making my strut rods (its only been over a year LOL). I will post pictures up when I get done.

Hey that clevis CAD drawing looks familiar ;) This post is ironic, as I am almost finished making my strut rods (its only been over a year LOL). I will post pictures up when I get done.

My understanding is the splines' only purpose was to hold the bolt in place while the nut was tightened.

Mike, refresh my memory you did some mods to the rear wheelhouses to get those to fit with the car dropped that far....right?

No reinforcement or brackets on my factory dual exhaust Mach 1. Muffler hangers match that of Unkleen. The single exhaust 70 fastback has the same passenger hanger. I will note that it does not have the nuts welded on the drivers side for the dual exhaust. I would have to weld nuts or do nutserts if I wanted a factory dual exhaust setup.

I've found the following beneficial in tuning Holleys: http://www.nastyz28.com/~ericf/tech/htune.pdf Have you pulled the bowls to see if it has stock jets? I'd put larger secondary jets in to see if it gets rid of the bog. That bog is a classic sign of being lean. My 670 Street Avenger had a bad bog and the larger jets fixed it. Larger squirters are typically the last thing to mess with.

The Ford engineers improved the design in 70, as they found the 3 fasteners of the 69 didn't hold up too well to parking spot curbs and the such (thats my theory anyways). They increased the number of fasteners to something like 12 in 70 as well as change the texture and increase the thickness of the spoiler.

I assume you don't have a bead roller? Nice work so far! Following your build with interest and jealousy of your skills :)

Nice writeup! Regarding the question about controlling the passenger window from the drivers side, I would think a hidden toggle switch could direct the power from the drivers window switch to the drivers or passenger door window motor. Similar idea to how drivers and passenger power door mirrors on controlled by the driver on new cars. It might take a relay or two since multiple wires are involved (up/down).

This may help: http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=9551