buening

Otherwise, modify your current block and cut off the top nipple and drill/tap/plug it, then drill/tap a side port and install a nipple there. Not sure on fitting or vacuum hose sizes, but the below may also be an option: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Intake-Manifold-Chrome-Steel-Vacuum-T-Fitting-1-2-Thread-1-4-1-2-Nipple-/201331516270

Have you consider using a brass 90 elbow and relocating the vacuum to the firewall tree like used on the 70 mustangs? See below

http://www.ebay.com/itm/IGNITION-SWITCH-MUSTANG-MACH-BOSS-302-351-428-429-SHELBY-COUGAR-ELIMINATOR-70-71-/300877860816?hash=item460db7cfd0&vxp=mtr

Not sure about the Super Comps, but my regular Comps had the collectors pointing up towards the floor pan and the collector reducers (when bolted to headers) were hitting the trans tunnel crossmember that is welded to the floor pan. Had to dent the crap out of them to clear. I ended up lowering the motor which helped with the clearance.

PVC is extremely dangerous and will explode with a light bump (or sometimes no bump). People have been seriously injured and killed by exploding PVC air lines. They become very fragile over time and expansion of the walls due to fluctuating pressures add to this. Just one of many examples: http://www.wave3.com/story/17113807/explosion-at-fairdale-factory-injuries-reported

Regarding regulators, I prefer the Norgren Filter/Regulator combos. It takes some patience on ebay and familiarity with their part number coding, but I ended up with a lot of 6 combos with 1/2" fittings for about $50 + shipping. They are built like a tank and have had zero issues with them. The ones I have have automatic draining filter bowls (float raises high enough to trigger switch to open). Example with 3/8" fittings: http://www.ebay.com/itm/norgren-filter-regulator-B72g-3ak-qd3-rmn-/281623256282?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item41920ddcda Wilkerson is another quality brand. http://www.ebay.com/itm/WILKERSON-B08-02-FK00-Filter-Regulator-6-46-In-H-1-58-In-W-/221576635050?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3396ff22aa I prefer the composite bowls over the glass bowls, but is mere preference. I wouldn't get the cheap generic HF filter/reg/lub combos, but thats just me.

Unless I'm not thinking clearly today, you won't lose radius but rather it'll make your steering ratio higher. The tie rod is moved closer to the spindle, which means the steering linkage will need to move less compared to the stock configuration (less of a steering arm on the spindle, essentially). Regardless, any of the bumpsteer kits will likely be fine on the street, and the bumpsteer differences is negligible on the street. See below for the Pro-Motorsports version. The Pro-Motorsports version is not adjustable, FYI. There is also a DIY version if you like to do it on the cheap that is comparable to the Baer and other kits. It is a Pinto adjustable tie rod adapter attached to a heim joint (which replaces the tie rod end). See below for link to adapter and picture of it on a car. Keep in mind to utilize the Baer, TCP, or DIY type correctly you need a way to measure bumpsteer. If you are curious how to measure it, do a google search and you'll find numerous ways to do it. You have to remove the shocks and wheels in order to measure it. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Adjustable-Tie-Rod-Adapter-Stud-to-Heim,3333.html

His axle will need to move 1/4" (7/32" to be exact) to the passenger side. The bolt head/pin diameter is 1/2" IIRC, so you'll be grinding half the diameter off and leaving very little of the head attached to the bolt shaft. True the clamping force would likely be enough to hold the axle in place on the street, but is not something I personally would risk. They are there for a reason and not because of the track. That is entirely up to Prayers though. If so, either get a drill bit 1/2" larger diameter than the hole (half is the 1/4") or use a die grinder to enlarge one side of the hole on the spring perch. Even after all this work the tires still won't clear the quarter lips, so you will have tire shredders if the suspension travel is greater than the vertical gap between the quarter and tire. Thus is the fun of maximizing the tire in a stock wheelwell!

I'd remove those poly strut bushings ASAP. In regards to bumpsteer and which kits works best, the following thread may be informative: http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/mod-custom-forum/549206-pro-motorsports-bumpsteer-kit.html In summary the Pro-Motorsports minimized bumpsteer the most compared to the Baer kit. It does affect turning radius since it moves the tie rods in relation to the spindle, FYI.

I personally wouldn't oblong the hole in the perch, as it will allow the axle to shift around on the leaf. You could oblong the hole and then add some weld to the original side of the hole to make it round again (essentially shifting the hole in the direction you need without a full plug weld and re-drill). Also, take a measurement of the clearance between the U-bolt and the perch to make sure you have enough room to move it over. If you picture the locating pin missing and moving the axle to one side, you can see how the U-bolt would eventually hit the side of the perch. If the U-bolt is physically touching the side of the perch on any side, then you have zero room for plugging and redrilling the hole and the only option would be to bust the welds on the perches and reweld once the axle is centered. I do like Machrider's suggestion of looking at the front bushings. If the bushing is offset to one side in both springs, it will shove both leaf springs to one side of the car. I can't say I've ever seen this happen, but anything is possible.

I would set up strings parallel to the car on each side (how DIY guys check toe alignment on AWD cars), to make sure it is indeed the frame alignment or quarter panel that is off. It would also let you know if the axle is off center or not. I use metal conduit on a pair of jack stands at each end of the car, with fishing line tied to each conduit. Measure string spacing at each end so they are parallel, then measure random locations along the car that are known correct points (rocker, door, front frame, etc) to make sure the parallel strings are parallel to the car. You can then compare location of the leaf springs and rear hub face to see how offset they are. An easier method would be to measure from the yoke to the front of the car in locations that are fixed and original (frame rail). Did you use the mustang frame diagram and do spot measurements to determine if the frame was installed correctly? I don't have the 69 but below is the 70 (likely the same) In terms of a fix, I don't see a way without having the dogtrack issues.....but I question how much it would take to be noticeable (these aren't exact spec cars). Moving the spring pads on the axle tubes would be the same as uneven wheel spacers, since I am assuming the axle was centered before. I will mention that my axle is not perfectly centered under the car, and it is common for them to be offset to one side as much as 1/2". I think I measured 3/8" or so difference from face of tire to edge of rear quarter.

Yeah its about 1/4". No mods to the leaf springs at all. Not sure if my leafs are original or aftermarket, but they are 4-leaf. I have new bushings front and rear. BS is 6.8" with 1/2" spacer (6.3" net backspace) More info:1969stang.com/forum/index.php?/topic/45710-maximum-rubbergirl-gets-some-new-shoes/

Here is my clearance with 315/45/17 tires. No rubbing on the leaf spring as of yet. Tire deflection occurs mostly near the ground, and the leaft is at the halfway point of the tire. I wouldn't expect much tire deflections unless you are autocrossing on tall wall tires.

This picture may help:

He is talking about the plastic shroud between the above pictured lower dash cover and the metal steering column (where key is). There is a metal clip that holds the joint closed on that cover. Its easier to see if you remove that above pictured shroud. The clip slides out (I think from the bottom). I can't find any pictures of the clip but here is the end of the shroud with the joint shown. The clip is about 2" long and U-shaped and slides of the inside part of the shroud joint.

Have you tried cranking the motor over with the cap off to see if the shaft looks bent? If the rotor wobbles, remove it and still crank it over to see if the top of the shaft moves in oval fashion. A dial indicator would help immensely due to the slow cranking speed/rotation of the distributor shaft.

Make sure the rotor is on all the way. They have a notch that fits in a slot in the distributor shaft, so make sure it is in the slot and fully pushed onto the shaft.

Its my experience that all mustangs even from the factory had the transmission pointing down a degree or two, so having the pinion pointing down only further worsens driveline vibrations. I wouldn't say mine is opposite of conventional, more like mine is commonplace among mustangs (again, based on my experience)

You don't need a CV jointed driveshaft. I've never seen a mustang with those, as they are typically 4x4 oriented. From what you've said your shimmed your pinion so that it is +1° and your trans is -°3, resulting in a driveline angle of 2°. During WOT the pinion will increase to the point where your slapper bars restrict any further wrapping. If the constant vibration is gone then I'd leave your driveline angle alone. Also keep in mind things like driveshaft can be out of balance, axles slightly bent, worn out axle bearings, etc can all contribute to driveline vibrations. There was a thread on the VMF where I was involve (it was a 70 mach) where the guy was having driveline vibrations and I think it ended up being his axles. He went through the entire drivetrain and was testing everything by removing piece by piece and running the car on stands to see if the vibration was still there. Below are two links that you can read through: http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/781625-another-pinion-angle-question.html http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/773705-pinion-angle-help-70-mach.html

No they are not backwards. The trans almost always points down, so in order to get opposing angles the pinion should be either level or slightly pointed up. I typically have a degree or two so to allow for pinion wrap. My trans is 2.5° down and pinion is 0° with no driveline vibrations that I can feel. Keep in mind the angle changes constantly depending on WOT, part throttle, cruise, and deceleration. Pick your poison in which you want the vibration. With leaf springs the pinion angle can change drastically during WOT. I'm surprised you can feel driveline vibrations only at WOT, typically its a complaint during cruise and part throttle when things are less noisy.

Past forum software changes at other websites (like VMF and Stangfix) resulted in the loss of past subscriptions, FYI

Typically the tailshafts of the trans point down, so you may have less of a driveline angle issue as you may think. Pull the driveshaft and put the angle gauge across the vertical flat of the tailshaft (near the seal)

The temp gauge came with the tachometer cars. You have a fuel gauge at the far right correct? The printed circuit (gauge ribbon) is completely different between tach and non-tach cars (as is the underdash harness). You would have to cut the printed circuit ribbon that touches the posts for the temperature gauge, and then run wires from the alternator to the gauge posts. Indeed it is an amp meter and is pretty useless as a gauge, FYI.

LEDs have come a long way. Early on I had purchased the inverted single LED bulb for my dash and it sucked. Now you can buy multiple SMD lights that can produce more lumens than a standard bulb, depending on what bulb you are wanting to replace. The lower lumen bulbs like the 194 (dash and turn signal bulb) are easily outshined by multi-SMD LED bulbs. There are also different kinds of SMD LED modules, like the 3528, 5050, 5730, etc. See here for difference in lumens and intensity: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SMD_LED_Module For example if you went on ebay and got a 9-LED with the 3528 modules, it would not be as bright as a 4-LED 5630. The higher the lumen per module, the brighter the light. I have been experimenting with 194 bulbs for the dome light in my F150, which are the same bulbs used in our mustang instrument clusters and turn signals. I've bought the following three to test: 10SMD LED 5630 Non-Projector , 10SMD CREE 50watt LED, and 10SMD LED 5630 Projector The projector one hasn't shown up since I didn't pay attention and its come from Asia, but the non-projector one is definitely brighter than the 194 standard bulb it replaced (has a typical LED bluish hue though). The "50W" CREE one, which I expected to blow others out of the water, was only marginally brighter and one of the two I bought failed within 5 minutes. CREE are typically quality modules but its likely the chinese assembly that caused it to crap out on me.....or they may likely be fake CREE modules. The CREE one did have more of a white light instead of the blue hue, if that matters. There are much cheaper alternatives out there as well if you shop around, for example: Projector and non-projector, but they are just overseas and take forever to ship. I will note the ones above are too deep to use in the instrument cluster if you keep the light diffusers. Be sure to measure and compare dimensions. Also keep in mind that buying a "kit" from a parts supplier doesn't give us enough info as to how many SMDs it has or what type they are, and as you can see from the Wiki site I linked to at the begining, the difference can be huge! If you want to skip the kits and buy bulbs, I recommend getting 5630 modules and getting ones that have the most SMDs as will fit.

LEDs have come a long way. Early on I had purchased the inverted single LED bulb for my dash and it sucked. Now you can buy multiple SMD lights that can produce more lumens than a standard bulb, depending on what bulb you are wanting to replace. The lower lumen bulbs like the 194 (dash and turn signal bulb) are easily outshined by multi-SMD LED bulbs. There are also different kinds of SMD LED modules, like the 3528, 5050, 5730, etc. See here for difference in lumens and intensity: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SMD_LED_Module For example if you went on ebay and got a 9-LED with the 3528 modules, it would not be as bright as a 4-LED 5630. The higher the lumen per module, the brighter the light. I have been experimenting with 194 bulbs for the dome light in my F150, which are the same bulbs used in our mustang instrument clusters and turn signals. I've bought the following three to test: 10SMD LED 5630 Non-Projector , 10SMD CREE 50watt LED, and 10SMD LED 5630 Projector The projector one hasn't shown up since I didn't pay attention and its come from Asia, but the non-projector one is definitely brighter than the 194 standard bulb it replaced (has a typical LED bluish hue though). The "50W" CREE one, which I expected to blow others out of the water, was only marginally brighter and one of the two I bought failed within 5 minutes. CREE are typically quality modules but its likely the chinese assembly that caused it to crap out on me.....or they may likely be fake CREE modules. The CREE one did have more of a white light instead of the blue hue, if that matters. There are much cheaper alternatives out there as well if you shop around, for example: Projector and non-projector, but they are just overseas and take forever to ship. I will note the ones above are too deep to use in the instrument cluster if you keep the light diffusers. Be sure to measure and compare dimensions. Also keep in mind that buying a "kit" from a parts supplier doesn't give us enough info as to how many SMDs it has or what type they are, and as you can see from the Wiki site I linked to at the begining, the difference can be huge! If you want to skip the kits and buy bulbs, I recommend getting 5630 modules and getting ones that have the most SMDs as will fit.