buening

Geez, by the time you get done they may be old technology! LOL

caboy78 you may be amazed by the difference of custom quality coilovers vs off the shelf mediocre ones. Nice to see you are happy with yours, but QA1 shocks aren't typically regarded as a quality shock.

Shocks can make or break the system. Street or Track have custom valved Bilsteins and ride NICE. Meier Racing has a new coilover suspension using JRI shocks (expensive and some consider top-of-the-line), but their setup still has the shock mounted to the UCA....which doesn't take advantage of the improved motion ratio and reduced stress on the shock towers. I would lean towards the SoT setup.

Yuck, way too pixelated for me. I prefer a large amount of LEDs tightly placed so you lose the LED "dots" and it glows just like if a bright bulb were in there.

I am in this process as well. Care to post up the ones you've found that work well? The front and rear markers are pretty limitied in depth, so those bulb selections get reduced drastically. I can tell you the 5630 SMD type has the highest lumen output, with 5050 a close second. I have the following on the way for my rear markers: http://www.ebay.com/itm/271190577202?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Taurus fans are too deep for cars with motors in the stock location (unless you have a thin radiator). The countour fan is a bit shallower and places the motors away from the water pump pulley I have done the following: T56 6-speed from 03 Mustang Cobra, 3g alternator from Taurus, Taurus fan (my motor is not in the stock location), 99-04 mustang convertible rearview mirror (has map lights, also on other GM cars like Trans Ams), intermittant wiper switch from 80's F150, remote power mirror motors from 99-04 mustang (takes work to install into stock mirrors), power trunk release from 70's Lincoln, and Duraspark distributor and ignition box. Some people install Fiero seats in their cars, as they have speakers built into the head rests. You can get new covers online from some Fiero specialist guy (do more research). Some cars have Recaro seats in them, which are also sometimes good candidates if you want different seats. Tilt columns from manual shift 70's broncos and F150s look promising for those of us with 70 mustangs with the key in the column. I haven't tried it yet, only researched it. Might not be something the 69 crowd will do due to the switch in the column. Then there is the rack and pinions from Cavaliers and a Taurus I believe (both have loss in turning radius), as well as the integral steering box from a 70s Toyota. Neither is for the faint of heart or a plug-and-play swap.

Depends on your budget. The expensive ones they now carry are relatively new and better made and more concourse correct. I have the cheaper ones and had issues with the drivers outer beltline that has the tab that sticks down with the rivet. The rivet was catching on the stainless rear window trim. I removed the tab and all is well now. Never have figured out what the tab was for.

Nordan isn't what it used to be. Back in the day they were the best in the biz, but then they went to crap. Typically NPD doesn't endless research on their part sourcing and carry the best, so I'm surprised to hear that Guillaume. I bought a front bumper from CJ Pony and so far have no issues and the fit was good. Its typically the rears that have fitment issues at the ends, so I'm not much help there.

Otherwise, modify your current block and cut off the top nipple and drill/tap/plug it, then drill/tap a side port and install a nipple there. Not sure on fitting or vacuum hose sizes, but the below may also be an option: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Intake-Manifold-Chrome-Steel-Vacuum-T-Fitting-1-2-Thread-1-4-1-2-Nipple-/201331516270

Have you consider using a brass 90 elbow and relocating the vacuum to the firewall tree like used on the 70 mustangs? See below

http://www.ebay.com/itm/IGNITION-SWITCH-MUSTANG-MACH-BOSS-302-351-428-429-SHELBY-COUGAR-ELIMINATOR-70-71-/300877860816?hash=item460db7cfd0&vxp=mtr

Not sure about the Super Comps, but my regular Comps had the collectors pointing up towards the floor pan and the collector reducers (when bolted to headers) were hitting the trans tunnel crossmember that is welded to the floor pan. Had to dent the crap out of them to clear. I ended up lowering the motor which helped with the clearance.

PVC is extremely dangerous and will explode with a light bump (or sometimes no bump). People have been seriously injured and killed by exploding PVC air lines. They become very fragile over time and expansion of the walls due to fluctuating pressures add to this. Just one of many examples: http://www.wave3.com/story/17113807/explosion-at-fairdale-factory-injuries-reported

Regarding regulators, I prefer the Norgren Filter/Regulator combos. It takes some patience on ebay and familiarity with their part number coding, but I ended up with a lot of 6 combos with 1/2" fittings for about $50 + shipping. They are built like a tank and have had zero issues with them. The ones I have have automatic draining filter bowls (float raises high enough to trigger switch to open). Example with 3/8" fittings: http://www.ebay.com/itm/norgren-filter-regulator-B72g-3ak-qd3-rmn-/281623256282?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item41920ddcda Wilkerson is another quality brand. http://www.ebay.com/itm/WILKERSON-B08-02-FK00-Filter-Regulator-6-46-In-H-1-58-In-W-/221576635050?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3396ff22aa I prefer the composite bowls over the glass bowls, but is mere preference. I wouldn't get the cheap generic HF filter/reg/lub combos, but thats just me.

Unless I'm not thinking clearly today, you won't lose radius but rather it'll make your steering ratio higher. The tie rod is moved closer to the spindle, which means the steering linkage will need to move less compared to the stock configuration (less of a steering arm on the spindle, essentially). Regardless, any of the bumpsteer kits will likely be fine on the street, and the bumpsteer differences is negligible on the street. See below for the Pro-Motorsports version. The Pro-Motorsports version is not adjustable, FYI. There is also a DIY version if you like to do it on the cheap that is comparable to the Baer and other kits. It is a Pinto adjustable tie rod adapter attached to a heim joint (which replaces the tie rod end). See below for link to adapter and picture of it on a car. Keep in mind to utilize the Baer, TCP, or DIY type correctly you need a way to measure bumpsteer. If you are curious how to measure it, do a google search and you'll find numerous ways to do it. You have to remove the shocks and wheels in order to measure it. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Adjustable-Tie-Rod-Adapter-Stud-to-Heim,3333.html

His axle will need to move 1/4" (7/32" to be exact) to the passenger side. The bolt head/pin diameter is 1/2" IIRC, so you'll be grinding half the diameter off and leaving very little of the head attached to the bolt shaft. True the clamping force would likely be enough to hold the axle in place on the street, but is not something I personally would risk. They are there for a reason and not because of the track. That is entirely up to Prayers though. If so, either get a drill bit 1/2" larger diameter than the hole (half is the 1/4") or use a die grinder to enlarge one side of the hole on the spring perch. Even after all this work the tires still won't clear the quarter lips, so you will have tire shredders if the suspension travel is greater than the vertical gap between the quarter and tire. Thus is the fun of maximizing the tire in a stock wheelwell!

I'd remove those poly strut bushings ASAP. In regards to bumpsteer and which kits works best, the following thread may be informative: http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/mod-custom-forum/549206-pro-motorsports-bumpsteer-kit.html In summary the Pro-Motorsports minimized bumpsteer the most compared to the Baer kit. It does affect turning radius since it moves the tie rods in relation to the spindle, FYI.

I personally wouldn't oblong the hole in the perch, as it will allow the axle to shift around on the leaf. You could oblong the hole and then add some weld to the original side of the hole to make it round again (essentially shifting the hole in the direction you need without a full plug weld and re-drill). Also, take a measurement of the clearance between the U-bolt and the perch to make sure you have enough room to move it over. If you picture the locating pin missing and moving the axle to one side, you can see how the U-bolt would eventually hit the side of the perch. If the U-bolt is physically touching the side of the perch on any side, then you have zero room for plugging and redrilling the hole and the only option would be to bust the welds on the perches and reweld once the axle is centered. I do like Machrider's suggestion of looking at the front bushings. If the bushing is offset to one side in both springs, it will shove both leaf springs to one side of the car. I can't say I've ever seen this happen, but anything is possible.

I would set up strings parallel to the car on each side (how DIY guys check toe alignment on AWD cars), to make sure it is indeed the frame alignment or quarter panel that is off. It would also let you know if the axle is off center or not. I use metal conduit on a pair of jack stands at each end of the car, with fishing line tied to each conduit. Measure string spacing at each end so they are parallel, then measure random locations along the car that are known correct points (rocker, door, front frame, etc) to make sure the parallel strings are parallel to the car. You can then compare location of the leaf springs and rear hub face to see how offset they are. An easier method would be to measure from the yoke to the front of the car in locations that are fixed and original (frame rail). Did you use the mustang frame diagram and do spot measurements to determine if the frame was installed correctly? I don't have the 69 but below is the 70 (likely the same) In terms of a fix, I don't see a way without having the dogtrack issues.....but I question how much it would take to be noticeable (these aren't exact spec cars). Moving the spring pads on the axle tubes would be the same as uneven wheel spacers, since I am assuming the axle was centered before. I will mention that my axle is not perfectly centered under the car, and it is common for them to be offset to one side as much as 1/2". I think I measured 3/8" or so difference from face of tire to edge of rear quarter.

Yeah its about 1/4". No mods to the leaf springs at all. Not sure if my leafs are original or aftermarket, but they are 4-leaf. I have new bushings front and rear. BS is 6.8" with 1/2" spacer (6.3" net backspace) More info:1969stang.com/forum/index.php?/topic/45710-maximum-rubbergirl-gets-some-new-shoes/

Here is my clearance with 315/45/17 tires. No rubbing on the leaf spring as of yet. Tire deflection occurs mostly near the ground, and the leaft is at the halfway point of the tire. I wouldn't expect much tire deflections unless you are autocrossing on tall wall tires.

This picture may help:

He is talking about the plastic shroud between the above pictured lower dash cover and the metal steering column (where key is). There is a metal clip that holds the joint closed on that cover. Its easier to see if you remove that above pictured shroud. The clip slides out (I think from the bottom). I can't find any pictures of the clip but here is the end of the shroud with the joint shown. The clip is about 2" long and U-shaped and slides of the inside part of the shroud joint.

Have you tried cranking the motor over with the cap off to see if the shaft looks bent? If the rotor wobbles, remove it and still crank it over to see if the top of the shaft moves in oval fashion. A dial indicator would help immensely due to the slow cranking speed/rotation of the distributor shaft.

Make sure the rotor is on all the way. They have a notch that fits in a slot in the distributor shaft, so make sure it is in the slot and fully pushed onto the shaft.