buening

If you want a drag radial for the back that will have good street manners (wet driving, noise, etc), the NT555R tires are more popular with the street guys. You get more life out of them and are more of a street/drag hybrid, rather than the full out nearly-slicks tread pattern of the NT05R. You could go with NT555R in the back and NT555 in the front.

Be careful with generic widths, like 295 and 275. The actual tire width varies by manufacturer so take the width with a grain of salt. One manufacturer's 295 can be the same width as another's 315. Member Grabber70mach had a handy little comparison a few years back, but for some reason I can't find it. Below is a link to my combination, 17x10.5 with 315/35 and even after using a BFH in the front inside corners of the wheelwell and rolling the quarter lips it rubs during a turn or pothole. I will be tweaking the inner wheelhouse sheetmetal to add reliefs to alleviate the rubbing. If you want bolt-on with no work and no rubbing, don't go this wide.

If the rear of the hood is higher than the cowl and you've gone through the adjustment method of having someone push up on the hood while you tighten the hinge bolts at the apron, most likely the hinges are worn. With the hood closed, can you press the corners of the hood down with your hand? If so, the hinges are worn. There was a post on here where someone took their hinges off and used a hammer and punch on a bench vice/anvil to recompress the rivets at the hinge points.

Outside of the CRL stuff, my process was pretty much the same. I used 3m 8693 Urethane between the glass and the rubber, and glazing n bedding in the body channel adjacent to the rubber. This was based on everything I read. I have been installing the clips before filling the body channel with goop, because it seems like it creates an air pocket if I install the clips after. Maybe I need to do a thin layer first, install clips, and then to the "filling" after. Also, the glazing and bedding seems to skin over and makes installing trim difficult if you pack the channel too full. The CRL sounds like it doesn't even skin over, so may work better with the molding. I've tried letting the G&B set up for a few days and then install trim (which ended up in some denting of trim), and also installed the trim immediately after applying the G&B (much easier to install trim, but no way to water-test it). The time I let it set up, it didn't have a single leak until I installed the molding....which opens up the clips and likely found a way through the clips and channel. Needless to say my multiple process experiments haven't worked and figured I'd see what the heck people on here do, because somethings gotta eventually work!

Well this has certainly caught me off guard. Everywhere I've read (forums, online mag articles, etc) its stated to use glazing and bedding compound for the rear glass. This stuff is horribly messy as well, and I would say its like roofing tar almost. Heating it up seems to make it flow better. Mikestang, any idea how the CRL stuff compares to glazing & bedding? It almost sounds like Ridge puts the strips on the body channel, and then drops the glass/weatherstripping into place and does the rope trick. I would think the bottom lip of the weatherstripping would move the caulk strip around when you pull the rope, since the W/S rests on the body channel until you pull the rope and pull the W/S over the body channel lip.

There is a very large thread on the VMF about this conversion, with many people successfully doing and loving the conversion. I assume you know of the thread since the photo posted was the creator of that thread. The trick of the conversion is the controller module, which Bruno from UK sells but isn't speed-driven like modern computer cars. Bruno's is variable assist, but is driven by a potentiometer knob instead of VSS. A guy on VMF figured out how to make a module tied to VSS, but due to liability reasons he won't sell them and won't tell anyone how to build one. Most people just find a comfortable setting on the knob and leave it be. Its a relavitely popular mod for the early cars but I've only seen a few 69/70 cars with it done. I'm not a fan of the aftermarket solutions because they don't brace the servo motor to the dash very well. Link to thread: http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/mod-custom-forum/787114-best-200-mod-ever-eps.html

Anyone here that has done fastback rear glass have any tips on getting it sealed up around these clips? I pry the clips open and squirt the 3m bedding & glazing in and around the clips, as well as the channel between the clips. I water test it before I put the molding on and its all sealed up, then install the molding and the stupid thing leaks in numerous locations, mostly the clips on the sides of the glass (not the top or bottom sides). The water comes in from behind the quarter sail panels and then runs out onto the package tray, so I know its not the seal between the glass and the rubber weatherstripping. The weatherstripping is the better Daniel Carpenter rubber. Thoughts? I've removed and redone the bedding & glazing 3 times and still leaks, so I'm obviously consistent in doing it incorrectly. I'm particular in cleaning up the body lip so that no old compound is left, so adhesion shouldn't be an issue.

Thanks! I had done these quite a few years ago, mostly including the PDF and pics in responses to people starting threads about the eliminators and such. Let me know if you have any questions GypsyR! Pretty basic stuff. Grabber, life has been super busy with a 4yr old boy and 6yr old girl at home and an accelerating career. Hoping to get back into the mustang hobby again

Yeah life got super busy with work and the two young kids. My mach has been sitting with a layer of dust, awaiting its turn to get attention. Forum life has been very minimal lately :(

This is an old topic from me, but when reviewing my signature links for dead pictures I realized I never created an actual thread about it here on 69stang (just on the VMF). For those that enjoy fabricating their own stuff to save money, I've created a PDF with dimensions to create your own eccentric eliminators. Its really easy to do as long as you can accurately centerpunch and drill the holes. Once one plate is made, use a transfer punch using the completed plate onto the 2nd plate. Harbor Freight has transfer punches in case you don't have any, they are handy when replicating parts. Attached below is the PDF as well as pics below, not of the actual fab'd plates but of what the aftermarket versions look like. The numbers on the drawing are intended to be stamped into the plate so that you can keep track of the orientation of each plate. The numbers are sequential to the slight changes in camber. There is also a small hole drilled near the lower left corner, also to help with orientation. I also notice many have updated their plates to only include 2 holes. I only have the 3 hole version, but if someone has the two hole one I'd be curious how the dimensions measure up. My guess is they don't allow for as fine of camber adjustments as the 3 hole does. Eccentric Eliminator Plate.pdf

LOL, yeah I'm a structural engineer. CAD system is Microstation, as we do bridges and that is the CAD program that the DOT uses. I have AutoCAD at home to mix things up, and used it for my motor mount plans. Check out my sig, there are threads to make your own eccentric eliminator plates, adjustable motor mounts, etc

Bolt number is dependent on the crank pulley you are using. If its original pulleys it should be 3 bolt (confirm by looking at your own pulley), as 70 and after used 4 bolt pulley. You should also verify the imbalance of your crank (28oz, 51oz, or 0oz). The stock is 28oz, but with aftermarket cranks it isn't always stock. The 51oz is late model imbalance and not likely yours, but some performance builds convert to 0oz imbalance. The flywheel imbalance would also have to match the crank and dampener imbalance, so to go away from 28oz imbalance requires a different flywheel too.

I too did something similar, but also beefed it up using 1.5" square tube. See below pic and the following build thread: http://1969stang.com/forum/index.php?/topic/49239-finished-my-cobra-automotive-like-70-engine-crossmember/?p=121263

Just an FYI when looking at LEDs, the chip type can have a huge effect on brightness. For example the more common 3528 chip gives 6-8 lumen per chip, whereas the larger 5630 chip gives 45-50 lumens per chip. If the seller doesn't mention the chip type, most likely its the 3528. You pay more for the 5630 or 5050 chips, but they are much brighter. The biggest challenge with these cars is the shallow depths allowed for bulbs, whether it be the dash diffusers or the turn signal housings on the fender/quarter. Obviously the more LEDs the brighter the bulb, and LEDs are directional so you don't want a single LED on the end of the bulb for a dash bulb (since it will just shine against the housing instead of filling the area around the gauge. Finding a multi-LED bulb to fit is a trial and error, something I've been experimenting with since they are cheap enough (non-dash bulbs that is).

I know you bought a new switch but if the connector is the only issue and originality isn't a concern, there are many different aftermarket connectors that could have been used ...like these:

There is a dimple in the firewall that you use to drill the hole. I too have the MD hydro setup and no issues with clearance to my prop valve.

Trust me guys, it is designed to only flow out of the cabin (when the rubber is new and in the closed position). As they age and constant use on windows down for cooling the cabin (constant air thru these vents), the rubber hardens in the partially open position. RPM, look at the vent from the door jamb side and look inside at the pockets formed in the plastic for the rubber flaps. When the flaps are closed they are larger than the opening and they will fill this pocket. Its not something I can easily capture in a picture unfortunately

The pillar vents that you guys are referring to is a vent with rubber flaps to prevent air from entering the cabin, essentially creating a check valve to only let air escape the cabin. Assuming the cabin is airtight in the 69s, you would have increased air pressure especially when shutting the door. The pillar vents allow this pressure to escape the cabin and makes shutting of doors easier. If you were to open the kick panel vents with the windows rolled up on a 69, you likely won't get much air coming into the cabin. With these vents, air will enter the cabin from these kick panel vents and exit the cabin through these pillar vents. Since the pillar vents are located behind the interior quarter panels, air comes from the kick panels towards the rear seat and into the trunk, then goes behind the rear quarter panels and through these pillar vents. These are not reproduced at the moment, only used ones can be purchased (at least with OEM style type). You can see the rubber flaps in the pictures below, and are angled as such to only open to the outside of the car. The flaps are longer than the opening, and the flap is connected at the bottom. Since the flaps are larger than the opening, they will only operate the one way they are angled at (which is to the outside of the car).

Have you looked into sourcing mass loaded vinyl and closed cell foam? Thats what the pro's use atop the dynomat. The closed cell foam isn't too hard to find, but MLV is heavy and shipping gets expensive so you'd have to find it locally. You may have read it already, but this may help: https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/faq-questions-top

A 70 pedal will result in more pedal travel compared to a 69 pedal.

You mention being able to drive it. Does the car nosedive when applying the brakes? If so, you likely have air in the line that goes to the rear of the car or something misadjusted (or issues with wheel cylinders) with the rear brakes. If it is the front, sometimes it will pull to a certain side (indicating that side is working up front).

70s manual trans broncos, f150s, and vans are another option that are similar. The key cylinder is different from what I recall (have a Lincoln I tried).

My opinion is they are rare enough that I'd sell it and go aftermarket. If your car was a stock resto it'd be different, but your car will be custom enough that an aftermarket column won't look out of place. There are aftermarket columns out there that also have the key in the column like the 70 cars. I kind of like the key in the dash myself (if I were going custom), plus the column is a lot more sleek without the cylinder in it.

This was 3M stuff in a caulk tube, bedding and glazing compound: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PF13JW/ref=pe_385040_30332190_TE_M3T1_ST1_dp_1 Old thread of mine, which I finally got around to doing: 1969stang.com/forum/index.php?/topic/50692-rear-glass-install-where-to-apply-sealant Like in that old picture, I applied bedding into the channel, put rope in, then put bedding top of channel. The flap on the sail panel wraps around the body seam (or so it appeared from install pictures I've seen), so its almost like the water is going between the sail panel flap and body. I may just pack more bedding behind the molding clip and hope for the best.

So I replaced my Mach's rear window seal recently, using butyl in the channels that grip the body and urethane in the glass (typical that I've read on here and elsewhere). I put butyl in the channel that the rope went into. After pulling the rope and window glass installed, I then filled the gap between the seal and the body (where the trim clips are) with butyl. Garden hose to the glass revealed no leaks. Victory!....but then I remembered I needed to install the molding, and the butyl was surrounding the trim clips. I tried installing the molding but it wouldn't grip the clips, so I took a small screwdriver and pryed the clip (as it would if molding was pressed in) and removed a small amount of butyl around the clip. Now the darn thing leaks, and its running behind the quarter sail panels. To me, this means water is getting through the butyl at the clip and underneath the sail panel flap and running down the backside of the sail panel. Its coming onto the package tray on both ends, meaning its not a single spot leak. It also appears to be limited to the sides, and not the top or bottom section. Thoughts on fixing this? If I pack more butyl around the clips, the molding won't likely install because the clips won't flex. Access behind the sail panels is pretty limited in order to pack butyl from that side. I'm not sure that packing butyl from the interior side of the weatherstripping flap will work, since it isn't running down the face of the sail panels.