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Vicfreg, if it helps the way to tell the difference between a manual and auto chrome console insert is the opening for the auto is deeper on the sides than in the front and rear, but overall shallower than the manual. On the manual, there is no lip on the sides and its all the same depth around the opening. Below is a pic of the auto:

2013-2018 ATS. Rock Auto doesn't have a core charge for those and they are brand new, whereas other more popular ones like Mustang require cores. The CTS has a different caliper for a larger rotor and won't work well with the smaller 13" rotors. I got my brackets roughed in yesterday and am making adjustments to my CAD file. I'll start a new post on this once I get things wrapped up.

For those looking into DIY Brembo's, the Cadillac ATS calipers are $125 new with no core charge from RockAuto and are much cheaper than the Mustang version (double the price). They do have Cadillac print on them so you'd want to paint them. Unlike the Mustang Brembos, the Caddilac ones are made for 13" rotors so the arch of the pads work better than the Mustang ones on smaller diameter rotors. I'm currently working on brackets very similar to RPM's to use them on the 13.2" mustang GT rotors, as I have 17" rims so I can't have 14" rotors like RPM. I started out with Wilwood Superlite calipers to adapt to the 13.2" Mustang GT rotors, but the pads were too small and only covered a bit under 3/4" of the rotor. I then found the Cadillac Brembos which the pads match perfectly..

Its easiest and more accurate if you remove the driveshaft. Stick the magnetic angle gauge on the vertical face of the transmission output shaft, and then put the gauge across the flats of the rearend's yoke. Make sure the widest part of the yoke is vertical. I went through this when doing my T56 trans conversion. As noted above, jack or jackstand can skew your measurements so you must make sure the suspension in the front and rear is loaded evenly and its raised in even amounts (use ramps preferably)

Excellent job Bigmal! Definitely not too difficult once you get it all planned out.

Excellent choice on the suspension upgrades! Some day I hope to do the same. As you know we have twin cars with the same wheel and tire package. I've been mulling the MTF minitub as well but may just pie-cut and reweld the area where the tire rubs on the front inside wheelwell to get me by until the suspension upgrades. Keep us in the loop on how the install goes! Regarding the 7/16" for Vintage Venom, one thing you may consider is swapping out the VV bracket and spacer for the Mustang Steve brackets. Those have a 2 piece offset caliper bracket, which avoids the need for the 7/16" spacer for caliper alignment. You'd be $200 into those brackets, which has got to be easier than shortening your axles and tubes (plus pulling all of that and getting it to a shop).

Bigmal the SN95 mirrors just snap onto the bases, so just press them on. I havent had my clips break and I had them on and off numerous times

Crap, just realized someone brought this post up from the dead. Well, hopefully you figured it out after 3 years Raven! LOL

I have one that I pulled from my mach recently that I took pics of for you. If you need any others let me know. There is a small notch on the back of the bezel, which should be replicated in the dash hole. That keeps the alignment of the light and prevents it from spinning. There are also the fingers that you see, which when you push the bezel through the dash those fingers that get compressed when going through the hole then expand and prevent the bezel from separating from the dash. Hope this makes sense. I also took a pic of the relay, which mounts to the turn signal relay stack. The power bullet connector connects to the accessory 3-bullet wire on the fuse box.

Mystang, what specs were your car aligned to? The issues you describe sound more like an alignment issue but I could be wrong. Opentracker has some good spec recommendations: https://opentrackerracing.com/technical/

Budget? One of the better ones out there: http://www.streetortrack.com/Street-or-Track-Front-Coilover-System-pr-24491.html

The mirror base still has the tabs on the sides and they hold quite well. I have to flex the base in order to remove it. Will know more once I get the mirror glass installed and hit a few Illinois pot holes :)

Pic of the switch from an early 2000 ford (F150/Mustang/etc), which I also have an aluminum/chrome knob and bezel that I may still add on since the original knob and bezel was chrome.

No problem! These motors are also the same as the Fox body mustang's, but dont have the detachable plastic mirror backing. It is instead plastic riveted/fused. I found out the SN95 mustang's use the same mirror motor for either side, which caused initial headache with the switch I used which had specific LH/RH motors. I was getting the LH motor going down when I was pressing up on the switch. Swapping the wires around fixed that!

Passenger side. I cut down the existing lower tab due to the extra thickness of the motors, and then re-tapped it. Epoxied tabs to the roof of the housing, and used a flat plate for the bracket to mount the motors to. Another tip, look into the early 2000 ford mirror switch. With a little enlarging of the mustang deluxe door panel mirror hole, the switch looks like it was made to be there!

Pictures of my drivers mirror. Not the same motors you are using, but may provide some ideas to help you. The SN95 motors have a removable plastic backing that snap off the motors (the black plate shown in the last picture). I trimmed it down to the size of our mirrors. My mirror glass is currently at the glass place being cut.

Don't be afraid to epoxy tabs onto the inside of the mirror housing. I'm wrapping up my electric mirror mods using SN95 mustang motors, and used bent sheet metal tabs epoxied to help stiffen up the mounting plate.

I could be wrong, but pretty sure the 70 mustang didn't have a door ajar warning (only cougar). The 3-wire switch is on cars with the Convenience Group Option and is only the passenger side switch, and it operates the seat back release solenoids when you open the door. It was so you didn't have to press the lever to push the seatback forward. Assuming your car is assembled, there will be solenoids and wiring on your seats (orange and black wires).

I'm nearing the end of my SN95 mustang electric mirror conversion. Passenger side is almost complete, with the drivers still to be started. Once I get it wrapped up I'll take a few pics. The issue with the passenger mirrors is they are only mounted with one screw at the bottom, so vibration will almost always be an issue as the mount will flex. I had to epoxy two bent tabs to the roof of the mirror housing, with a metal plate bolted to those two tabs and the bottom mount that was ground down further back (due to the thicker electric motor). I'm hoping the 3-point mount with a rigid plate mount will eliminate the flex issues of the passenger mirror.

Nevermind, I figured it out. I had the 12v battery and courtesy light feed wires swapped. All works now :)

Which factory wire do you tap into for your overhead harness?

Finally back to working on the stang again, and am installing an SN95 mustang rearview mirror with map lights. The mirror map lights need a dome light feed so that they turn on when the door is opened. It also needs to be 12v, and from my understanding, these car's courtesy lights run on a reverse ground system. Connecting the floor courtesy light wires to the mirror dome light wire makes my courtesy lights on even when the doors are closed.....which I believe the ground is feeding back into the courtesy light from the rearview mirror. How have you handled this wire on an map lighted rearview mirror install? Much appreciated!

There is also an outer bumper bracket that installs on top of this one https://www.cjponyparts.com/bumper-bracket-front-outer-driver-side-1969-1970/p/BB3OL/

Has anyone had issues with the trunk lock hole punched too far up into the crease? I test fitted the lock cylinder and found that it won't sit flush due to its position. I'm working on seeing if they are all this way, and if so I'll modify the lock hole to move the lock further down.This is on the 1970 dynacorn panel, not the 69.

Does the car tend to nosedive when you apply the brakes? I had a sensitive brake issue before and it turned out to be a leak in the rear brake line, causing only the front brakes to work.