buening

I noticed that too Pak. It appears the car has some hellacious positive camber up front, making it appear like he'll have some fender to tire clearance issues. It should tuck in the fender once he gets it aligned.

NPD lists the 65/66 as 9" and the 67-later as 10.5" FWIW

The 67 and later springs are taller than the 65/66 springs. Typically 2-3" taller IIRC. He could cut your springs to length as needed.

Correct on the evaporator hose location for A/C cars. I basically stole that pic from another forum and identified the holes for someone else a few months back.

The one with A/C should be similar, see below for a decent pic. He heater motor hole is elongated for the A/C lines to go through the firewall, you have a few grommets just below the firewall lip for the A/C vacuum lines, and a few studs with large metal washers near the heater/AC box that mount it to the firewall

In case you need to identify other holes in the firewall: 1 Engine Earth 2 Sealing Grommet 3 Throttle Cable 4 Wiring Loom 5 Brake Line Holding Clips 6 Peg for Shifter Wire Harness Clip 7 Peg for plastic strap to hold brake line (under #5 there is another stud for a like strap to hold the wires to the hood scoop turn signals if equipped) 8 Heater Hoses 9 Punched holes not meant to be there ?? (Evaporator drain hole on A/C cars) 10 NOT A FACTORY HOLE 11 plastic wiring loom retainer 12 windscreen wiper motor earth 13 ground for hood scoop mounted turn signal harness 14 grommet/loom wiper motor 15 point to clip plastic strap onto 16 grommet heater motor wire 17 wiper motor mount 18 brake master cylinder and pedal support 19 Speedo cable 20 steering column 21 Trans Cross-member 22 Rubber firewall insulation pin 23 Harness from underdash wiring to engine feeds and alternator/battery area 24 heater box 25 Accelerator pedal screw 26 Accelerator pedal screw The above pic is a non-A/C car

And what is even more amazing, the fit sucks so bad on these that most people would gladly pay double or more for a quality part. Hopefully NPD is working on getting a manufacturer to improve these.

The trouble I've found is finding a crank pulley for a 351 that has two equal diameter pulley sheeves for the dual belt alternator. The 2 and 3 sheeve crank pulleys have different diameters, with the second for the water pump and PS and the third sheeve for the A/C.

I believe MikeTyler went through the mess of getting it mated up to the stock pedal. I assume chillin is using the factory pedal. IIRC its not a straightforward plug and play for our pedals.

Good measuring on my part, and it only fits my wheel. The bolts have a very slight bend in them, so the springback of the bolts is holding it in place. A slot in the vertical tube would definitely make it more versatile, and would match what the Fastrax and Smartcamber did with theirs. The Fastrax is pretty slick, as you turn the knob and it ratchets the bolt up or down in the slot. I tried to keep mine as simplistic as possible, and at the moment my Mach is the only car this will be used on. If I decide to use it on other vehicles, I can either make a long slot or measure and redrill a second hole in the vertical tube and relocate the fastener to that new hole. Thats the beauty of this, you can customize it to your liking :thumbup1:

Yeah Racer, how's that one coming along? That thing has been years in the making :lol:

:lol: Who knows. I'll come up with something :detective: I tried to keep my solution as simplistic as possible. Regarding the turn plates, one can be as simplistic as possible with the trash bags, or they can use floor tiles with grease or salt between them, or even go all out and make thick steel plates with a bearing in the middle. I have plans to make my own coilover suspension, so I'll be going through this alignment process again so I'll likely go with the steel plate route.....but still haven't made up my mind yet. The trash bags are soooo easy, but determining the angular wheel turn is a sticking point. I was looking into something like plexiglass like these but have read the bottom plexiglass likes to turn on slick concrete. I have some spare steel plates, so taking the plexiglass method and using steel with a sandblasted bottom surface may be my cheapest way to go since I already have the steel. Plexiglass isn't cheap, especially the stuff that is that thick.

I've never been satisfied with the local alignment shop offerings in my area, and I tinker enough with my car that I try to do everything myself rather than farming it out. So my next adventure was to utilize my Eccentric Eliminators and dial in my own alignment for the car. This thread will be a work in progress, as I've not tackled the turn plates. I started out scouring the internet for aftermarket alignment tools, and boy are there a bunch of them. A couple of the more commonly purchased ones are the Fastrax: And the Smartcamber: As you can see, they are pretty similar. A three point structure touching the wheel rim, and a digital inclinometer. Easy enough. I looked for a relatively cheap but fairly accurate gauge and came across this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006JR8XBG/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The next part I wanted to tackle was the structure of the alignment tool. I wanted it to be fairly robust and straight, yet not weigh a ton. I also wanted it to do both camber and caster, as well as toe measurement. For the bottom portion of the T, I bought some aluminum 1"x1"x1/8" angle from the local box store. For the upright, this part needed to be steel since the angle cube was magnetic. So I opted for 1" square tubing (I think 1/8" wall). Toe is typically measured at the treads of the tire, so in looking up my tire diameter it was roughly 26". The tape measure needs to fit in there, so I added an inch to each side and made the aluminum angle 28" long, with slots cut 1" on each end. Since I'm measuring toe on both sides, I essentially needed two identical pieces. For the uprights, I don't recall exactly but I think I made them an even 18" long. It may have been a few inches shorter. Once bolted together, I bungee strapped it to the wheel and adjusted where the locations of the slots were (vertical-wise), so that the tape measures will clear everything under the car. Once positioned, I marked stud hole locations on the angle and upright (once I made sure the upright was vertical). I drilled and tapped the holes for #10 fasteners. Below is what I ended up with. I used a caliper and made sure the bolt length sticking out measured from the face of the square tube was equal for all three bolts. Don't forget to subtract the thickness of the angle when doing this! You can use your angle cube to verify the results, which I did. I also had to figure a way to protect my rims, as just using nuts on the ends of the bolts wasn't gonna work. What I did was dip acorn nuts in PlastiDip to give them a nice rubber coating. When I attached the tape measure, I determined that the end of the tape wouldn't fit in my skinny cut slots due to the curvature of the end blade bracket. So I had to widen my slots so they fit: Up close view of the fasteners on the angle and the use of nuts and lock washers to make sure they don't wiggle loose and mess with your measurements. Once the tools were made, I put tape marks on the concrete at the center of each tire. I then got out my laser level (no tripod used for this), and used a tape measure to the floor and took the measurements of where the laser hit the tape. I determined the front wheels where spot on, but the back wheels needed 1/2" spacer on one side and 1" on the other. I had some 1/2" MDF, which worked perfectly Pulled the car back in the garage over those tape marks, and put the tools to work. Below is the tools in action. My measurements were pretty much spot on for the three bolts, and I made them just a tad further out so that I could bend the bolt slightly so that it applies pressure to the wheel lip and holds itself up. If you can't get yours that accurate, just use bungee cords to attach them to the wheel. I probably should have made the slots in the end of the angles horizontal rather than vertical, but it works regardless. I may extend the width of the bottom leg of the angle at the tap measure to provide a "shelf" for each tape measure to sit on. The angle cube allows you to measure relative level (to a surface you zero it to) or absolute level (to the earth). I chose to use absolute level since I used the laser level and leveled the surface. I'm getting repeatable results when removing the tools from the wheels, so it should be close. I plan on using four jack stands with metal conduit spanning two at the front and rear of the car, and using strings parallel to verify my toe measurements. The issue with my solution above is you don't exactly know if your wheels are perfectly straight (ackerman can throw the toe measurements off), nor do you know how the toe alignment of the front wheels are compared to the rear axle. I plan on dialing back the camber to about -0.5° from the -1.0° it currently is, then either fabricating turn plates with angle measurements on them or use trash bags and use the string lines and some math to determine when I turn the 20° to measure caster. So with $30 in the angle cube and about $20 in tubing and angles, I have a bit over $50 in all for both tools. Compared to the aftermarket solution prices, it saved me some money and I can use the angle cube on other things, like table saw blade and miter saw blade angle verification. Hopefully you find this a bit beneficial and make your own improvements on this.

Nice! I was wondering if they were dumping in front of the axle or not. Word of caution from my experience, watch the driveshaft clearance to the exhaust x-pipe when you have the body on stands and the rear end freehanging. Mine, with the 1" drop, 4" driveshaft, and relocated motor actually has the driveshaft hanging on the exhaust when the rear end is hanging. In fact I think it won't let the axle drop as far as it could with the exhaust removed. This adds a bit of strain on the muffler hangers. Not sure if you'll have the issue, but something you might check sometime. The hydro clutch with aluminum flywheel definitely takes some getting used to! I still find myself riding the clutch more when taking off from a stop.

Another option depending on what your fan shroud looks like and the look you are going for (isn't see through though)

I ran across this little gem that may aid in your Holley manual: http://www.nastyz28.com/~ericf/tech/htune.pdf

Midrange of the slot I'd say. At 3/4 out towards the tire I'm at roughly -1° camber, and need to suck it in to get to -0.5° or so.

I would have to agree with the bias ply vs radial tires as to the reason why the alignment settings are different today vs what was originally specified. If this were my car, I would tell the shop to set it at -0.5° camber, +2° caster, and 1/8" (-.3°ish total)toe in. For camber I like the middle road between street and street/performance specs, as you minimize tire wear while still giving good cornering. The higher negative camber range of the street/performance is more for a track car, where you are really tearing up the curves at speeds and tire wear is not a concern. Again, simply my opinion and you will likely get differing opinions on preferable alignment settings.

For once I like the newer version better. Bolted at the top, added leg braces at the bottom, springs spaced out further, straps around the ends of the work surface channels, and they finally got rid of that god awful orange paint! BTW, be sure to upgrade the arbor plates. The ones that come with it are grenades waiting to explode!

Having just went through this, jack the car and support the frame on stands and you are good to go. Just make sure the stands or jack are not under the LCA. Pull the bolts, which by the way can be a bit stuck so a hammer helps, then install the eccentric eliminators. Just remember to use a caliper and measure the edge distance from the hole you are using to the edge of plate that will face the center of the car and make sure the same edge distance is used for the front and rear square plate. Sounds like common sense but the holes get confusing just by going on sight alone. I started out with the same edge distance on one side of the car, and used the same on the other side (mirror image essentially).

I calculate roughly 1/4" toe, which is a bit more than the typical 1/16" or 1/8" recommended but not sure its enough to kill tires. Are you seeing wear on the inside edge of the front tires, or where? I'd like to see more caster on your alignment. See here for some recommended specs: http://www.opentrackerracingproducts.com/tech/

I personally would highly recommend the square plates. If you look at the link in my sig, it is a PDF of the square plates that you can make yourself. The problem with the stock round eccentric washers is that if you hit a pothole, it can knock the eccentric washer out of place and you will lose your alignment settings. The square eccentric eliminates that potential. I would avoid shimming the UCA until the LCA is maxed out. How are you getting your camber values out of curiosity? I'm amazed that much camber is tearing up your tires. Have you checked your toe setting?

LOVE those rims!! Did the front fenders have flares? I forget

What is your camber setting right now?

I see to recall someone did it, but they modified the late model fan and shroud to fit the early radiator. I can't for the life of me remember what forum or who it was though!