buening

Flange may have been a poor choice of words. The point which the wheelhouse overhang/lip meets the rear floorboards. Mine rubs at this point. It appears you cut this portion and moved it inwards.

I don't think pie cutting will solve all the issues, as you are still restricted by the location of the welded flange. Here is a pic of mine before and after the BFH in the front lower inner wheelhouse. My immense amount of clearance to the leaf springs My wheels are 17x10.5 Bullitts from American Muscle with 6.8" backspace and 1/2" wheel spacer (net 6.3" backspace) with Sumitomo HTR Z 315/35/17. My car is not exactly lowered to the point where I want it (see below), but I do have rubbing in that same location shown above when going around a curve.

:lol: Yeah they can be a bit harsh if its a newb question. If it is in regards to bracing, they may be a bit more lenient.

Mike, you may want to install the instrument cluster and clock panel to make sure it clears that bar. I'm not sure what your plans are for them, but it looks like the gauges may be in the way of that bar.

I'm not aware of any from the vendors. The picture I used was from an older Ebay auction, and they pop up every once in awhile on there. I simply used my original as a template and drilled holes in the aftermarket one. I believe there are indeed cutouts in the stainless weatherstrip retainer. BTW the rubber coating on the NPD ones that I installed has already separated at the tip after less than a year from being installed. I will be trying the plastidip idea to see how long it lasts. I may end up with the same issue but will try numerous coats.

Good info Buckeye. I don't have the manuals so I wasn't sure. Another tip on these, if the originals have the coating missing like in the pic above and you are concerned with originality you can dip the originals in Plastidip (after derusting it). The originals had a more glossy rubber coating, but Plastidip finish is fairly close and you retain the original shape/contours of the guides.

I recalled a bookmark I had to an article on the roof rail w/s, and noticed in the pictures they also show a guide towards the rear of the window, in which my car has neither. Guess I have some investigating to do! Its possible the PO took the rear one and mounted it towards at the front. Hopefully others can shed more light on this. The pic below shows the guide just in front of the taper of the window. My car has one on the outside as well further down....it may be where his arm is blocking. Not a detail I've looked at in awhile on my car. It also shows the up close pic of the original guide at the rear of the window. Notice how it is fully rounded and not flat at the end like I mentioned? http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/mump_0911_how_to_restore_weatherstrip/

Correct, except the original/NOS ones had holes that mount it to the body of the car like below. There are also two per window just forward of where the window starts to taper down, one on the inside part of the w/s and another on the outside. They are not directly across from each other. A look at an assembly manual may shed more light. The aftermarket ones sold by NPD aren't exactly like the originals, FYI. The aftermarket ones have the bends all wrong, and both the aftermarket and NOS one shown below have more of a rounded-then-flat end (furthest left in top pic below), whereas the originals on my car were mostly rounded with no flat area

The clips guide the window into the groove of the w/s as its rolled up. They also act like stops or rests for the top of the window when the window is rolled up and the door is closed. Without the clips, the only thing supporting the window is the back stainless trim....so the window wobble.

I'm not sure if the actual spoiler has numbers, but the pedestals have part numbers on the bottoms. Here is one on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-FORD-1969-1970-MUSTANG-REAR-DECK-SPOILER-MACH-1-FASTBACK-BOSS-302-428-/331079931326?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d15e6d5be&vxp=mtr

Doesn't the Marti report tell you how many came in that color? It may not break it down by Machs though. An interesting breakdown of Boss cars by color: http://www.boss302.com/paint.htm

69gmachine is correct on the change in location of the bumpers between the years. I would like to point out that these bumpers do not limit the clutch pedal travel. They simply pad the contact between the pedal and support when the pedal is in the at-rest position.

Trick Flow 11r gets my vote. The canted valve has advantages over the inline valve placement of the AFRs, plus it allows a larger valve to be used on stock pistons compared to the AFR or other inline valve head.

Totally different at the rear window, sorry.

Those work too! I think the electronics got better and the connector stayed the same.

I will also add that if you get a used box that doesn't work, take the cover off the box and may times its just needs some touchup solder work on the board. Vibrations over time weaken the solder joints and eventually cause it to crack and separate.

So do you have a tubing bender like the JD2? Curious how you bent the tube.

Mine is similar to the aftermarket version except it uses square tube instead of round. I find it easier as a jacking point to have a flat surface rather than round. It also distributes the weight from the jack pad better and minimizes damage to the tube. Mine ties into the LCA, and I've done all the hard work (drawings) for everyone.

You can sometimes find NOS ones on ebay for a reasonable price. Within the last year I bought a pair of NOS ones for about $90. I don't see any reasonable ones on there now, but something to consider depending on how soon you need them.

Thanks for the info. I had seen all three of those videos and are helpful, but are made for the windshield and not the rear glass....but maybe they are the same process. If you look at his first video at around the 3:45 where he is applying the sealant to the rubber seal, you will notice the flap isn't the full width of the seal like it is on the rear window seal. There is room for him to apply the sealant and not have the rope affect it. Think I will follow your process of putting some in the rubber channel and risk the mess.

Any links to those YouTube video Videos? I didn't find anything for the rear glass, only for the windshield which is a tad bit different

Thanks for the info! Regarding sealant on the pinchweld, how can it possibly be applied to the metal when the "flap" of the gasket is the full width of the whole gasket? I would think if you applied sealant to the pinchweld and set the glass in place, the flap would sit on the sealant and then pulling the rope push it all into the interior (as well as a mess on the interior side of the flap). Thanks for the pic by the way. Also, there is nothing wrong with my headliner but the overhang portion got pulled off when I removed the glass. Essentially there isn't any folding over onto the pinch weld. See any issues with that? I could always use a little urethane between the flap of the gasket and the portion of headliner to keep the headliner from separating. It is attached to the interior side of the pinchweld still.

This picture should help:

I'm ready to install the rear glass in my mach and was curious if anyone has any tips on how to apply the bedding compound? I read the How-To that Mach1rider has on here, and he mentions putting a 3/8" bead inside the gasket pinchweld channel and then install the wire. Then he mentions putting sealer only in the corners between the body and rubber after the glass is installed. I'm not sure how this ends up being 2 full tubes. Should the entire area between the rubber and body (full perimeter) be pumped full of bedding compound after the glass is in place and the wire pulled, or is that just excessive mess-making?

A few possibly helpful threads (note there are 8 pages to the secondhandgarage link): http://secondchancegarage.com/public/475.cfm http://www.stwheelz.com/resinfo.html http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/582616-help-wood-grain-rim-blow.html http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/601546-rimblow-steering-wheel-woodgrain-color.html