buening
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Posts posted by buening
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Excellent! Message sent. The rear curves are what is all jacked up on the ones I got (plus the 1/4" extra width). See pics, bent ends are from NPD and they confirmed all are like that. I thought they were banged up during shipping.
The one pic of the nice but overly curved one is from CJ Pony. The stamping is less crisp than the NPD one.
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1 hour ago, Ridge Runner said:The good rockers are sold in the kits ,the rockers sold seperatly are junk . I don't know why you can't get the good ones by them selves .
I have several left and right sides from kits that i did not need to do rockers. Problem is the shipping because they are so long .
Ridge,
What kit do you mention? Are you talking about the full structure side with A and B pillars? Would you be willing to cut them up in sections? I was planning on just doing the front and rear sections of each side instead of the full length.
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I'm 0 for 2 on aftermarket outer rocker panels. I need to replace the front and rear 12" on both sides. Bought one from CJ and one from NPD, both different and both way off. Both are 1/4" too wide and rear lip is not even close. Any other options out there that you've had success with? I don't mind doing some fab but jeez I might as well start with a flat sheet of 16ga based on what I'm seeing with these.
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Doesn't sound like the booster. If a booster fails you have no assist on the brakes, and would be like pressing the pedal with the engine off.
I'm not familiar with the CRSP conversion, but double check that you don't have a manual brake pedal in a power brake setup. The pedal hanger on the pedal arm is higher up on a power brake pedal. This will give a ton of brake pedal travel. See here for pedal differences: https://mustangsteve.com/brake-pedals-identification-faq/
If the brakes worked fine previously, then odds are you still have air in the lines. Make sure you tap the brake lines as you are bleeding them in case bubbles get stuck, look for any leaks (look at rear wheel cylinders if rear drums), and make sure you have the calipers on the correct sides (reversed can have the bleeder being in wrong location and trap air). I also like using the Motive pressure bleeder system, as it really helps pushing those stubborn air bubbles out.
Couple things to look into!
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Better hope it wasn't straight water that froze and cracked the block.
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If those are the white KYBs, they are notorious for being stiff. I too went with Bilsteins in the rear on mine.
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Vibrations are narrowed down to engine (vibration is RPM dependent) or drivetrain (speed dependent with no impact from change in RPM). From what I'm reading, this is drivetrain related so I wouldn't focus on the new flexplate and engine balance. A couple questions:
Is the driveshaft original or aftermarket, and has it been balanced with the new u-joints?
What is the condition of the 3rd member/differential and has it been messed with? I don't forsee this being a potential for vibration but its in the mix.
What rear brakes does the car have? If disc brakes, make sure the rotor is centered on the axle hub
Have you removed the wheels and ran the car on jackstands to make sure its not the rear wheels? Install the 5 lug nuts to keep the drums attached, or better yet remove drums/rotors to eliminate those from the list.
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I can dig mine out of the box and see if there is a part number on the harness, but may I ask what you're intending to use it for (so we can better help you)? FYI these are nearly impossible to find and when used ones do pop up on Ebay they go for serious coin.
Here is a thread with pictures of the one I have:
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I have a 70 Mach that has, as best as I can tell, original roof rail seals that are in dire need of replacement and was on my list of things to replace next. If you need another test mule I'd be happy to test yours out on mine. Send me a PM if interested.
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Another update: I pulled the line from the MC and hooked up the gauge directly to the MC ports. I'm getting 1200psi (firm leg but not standing on the pedal) for the rear brake and buried the needle past 1500psi for the front brake. My understanding is the caliper shouldn't have an effect on PSI (piston size impacts clamping force but not line pressure), so the only thing I can think of is there is somehow STILL air in the lines.
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Small update: I hooked up the pressure guage to the drivers front and rear caliper. Something is definitely off with the fronts, whether its another bad MC or still air in lines. I also found that the "less brake" arrow on the Wilwood proportioning valve is backwards. Turning it that direction increases rear line pressures (yes I have the IN and OUT lines correct), so I had the rears at the min which explains why it was nose heavy on braking.
Front: Engine off = 300psi, on = 860psi
Rear (min prop valve): Engine off = 340psi, on = 540psi
Rear (max prop valve): Engine off = 680psi, on = 1030psi
The above is me basically standing on the pedal.
I unbolted the brembo calipers and tilted them vertically and bled again from both bleeders and both calipers...... with no air and no change in pedal. So frigging frustrating. Going to find some fittings and try to get the gauge hooked to the M/C and get pressures from there.
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Sorry for the delay, had to leave out of state for work. So I have 0.2" of pedal play with engine off until resistance, which feels like booster or linkage slop. Then I have 0.8" of pedal travel and feels pretty firm. As soon as I fire up the engine and get vacuum on the booster, I can press it down with one finger and the slop is gone and measure roughly 1.2", so essentially the same. Not that it matters but measurements were to rubber insert of carpet and perpendicular to floor. Attached is a video.
Parking brake on or off has no effect on pedal travel, so that should eliminate small amount of pad movement on the rear if pads were retracting.
I just pressure bled (Motive) 2 quarts of brake fluid through the front and rears and no change in feel. All in I'm probably 6 quarts and have tapped all lines with rubber mallet, no leaks anywhere, and booster-MC rod is adjusted correctly. Pumping the brakes multiple times and holding the pedal down does not cause the pedal to sink. I went through 3 new 70 mustang M/Cs and am now on a new 00 Mustang V6 M/C (1.00" bore, same as 69/70 stock M/C)) with same pedal feel. All were bench bled in many different ways (plugs and also with hoses to bowl).
I can't get the wheels to lock up on panic braking, and it does feel nose heavy upon braking. An adjustable prop valve is installed to the rear and is currently wide open. I measured 800psi with a guage to the rear caliper with the car off. I haven't done the fronts yet.
Setup is 13.2" rotors from 2012 GT with 4 piston Brembos and on rear is 13" 2016 GT. As mentioned, stock booster and 00 V6 M/C
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If anyone on here has 4 wheel discs brakes and a factory brake booster, can you take a measurement of your brake pedal travel with the car OFF and also with the car idling? I am fighting what I feel is excessive brake pedal travel but need a sanity check from someone else. Its been so long since I've had good brakes on my car that I don't know if I'm just too used to new vehicles or if I truly do have excessive brake pedal travel. So if ya think of it, grab a few measurements for me (preferably to bare floor pan but to carpet is fine) and let me know what brakes and M/C you have to keep things relevant.
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I don't know that it helps much, but here is what I did with the Taurus fan:
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Vicfreg, if it helps the way to tell the difference between a manual and auto chrome console insert is the opening for the auto is deeper on the sides than in the front and rear, but overall shallower than the manual. On the manual, there is no lip on the sides and its all the same depth around the opening. Below is a pic of the auto:
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On 4/10/2021 at 12:33 AM, RPM said:Which year Caddy ATS?
2013-2018 ATS. Rock Auto doesn't have a core charge for those and they are brand new, whereas other more popular ones like Mustang require cores.
The CTS has a different caliper for a larger rotor and won't work well with the smaller 13" rotors. I got my brackets roughed in yesterday and am making adjustments to my CAD file. I'll start a new post on this once I get things wrapped up.
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For those looking into DIY Brembo's, the Cadillac ATS calipers are $125 new with no core charge from RockAuto and are much cheaper than the Mustang version (double the price). They do have Cadillac print on them so you'd want to paint them. Unlike the Mustang Brembos, the Caddilac ones are made for 13" rotors so the arch of the pads work better than the Mustang ones on smaller diameter rotors. I'm currently working on brackets very similar to RPM's to use them on the 13.2" mustang GT rotors, as I have 17" rims so I can't have 14" rotors like RPM.
I started out with Wilwood Superlite calipers to adapt to the 13.2" Mustang GT rotors, but the pads were too small and only covered a bit under 3/4" of the rotor. I then found the Cadillac Brembos which the pads match perfectly..
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Its easiest and more accurate if you remove the driveshaft. Stick the magnetic angle gauge on the vertical face of the transmission output shaft, and then put the gauge across the flats of the rearend's yoke. Make sure the widest part of the yoke is vertical. I went through this when doing my T56 trans conversion. As noted above, jack or jackstand can skew your measurements so you must make sure the suspension in the front and rear is loaded evenly and its raised in even amounts (use ramps preferably)
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Excellent choice on the suspension upgrades! Some day I hope to do the same. As you know we have twin cars with the same wheel and tire package. I've been mulling the MTF minitub as well but may just pie-cut and reweld the area where the tire rubs on the front inside wheelwell to get me by until the suspension upgrades. Keep us in the loop on how the install goes!
Regarding the 7/16" for Vintage Venom, one thing you may consider is swapping out the VV bracket and spacer for the Mustang Steve brackets. Those have a 2 piece offset caliper bracket, which avoids the need for the 7/16" spacer for caliper alignment. You'd be $200 into those brackets, which has got to be easier than shortening your axles and tubes (plus pulling all of that and getting it to a shop).
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Bigmal the SN95 mirrors just snap onto the bases, so just press them on. I havent had my clips break and I had them on and off numerous times
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Crap, just realized someone brought this post up from the dead. Well, hopefully you figured it out after 3 years Raven! LOL
Rocker panels - anything remotely close?
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
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Now you know why I posted! LOL
For other's future reference, I attached pics showing the width difference. Note the stock includes inner rocker thickness so when you take that off the measurement you get the extra 1/4", which is primarily all in the wiring channel