dcm0123

FINALLY! After jack with it for just over 2 YEARS I have a smooth running transmission. And like I had been saying over and over again, it was the torque converter. They finally pulled the trans again and rebuilt the converter. Now it runs as smoothly as it did when I first brought it in to fix it shifting and leaking.
It'll be nice to go down the road and not be pissed off every time I get above 2150 RPMs.
 

I suppose anything may be adapted. But if it were easy I think we would have a vendor selling the 71 up conversion already. The 71 up box mounts higher, frame rail and shock towers changes to accommodate this. Also the frame rails are further apart on a 71,72,73, thus more room for the box.

Sometimes the connector goes causing the switch to overheat and fail. Replacing the switch when this happens is a temporary solution unless you replace the mating connector.
If you can get it to work, leave it on for a while then touch the wires coming out of the connector with your hand. If you feel heat, replace the connector as well. Unplug the connector and look for signs of burning on the electrical sockets or plastic inside the connector. This is a sign the connector is bad. If the contact is bad enough, you may not be ale to get the lights to work.
As mentioned above many people buy a relay kit and use the switch to only pull in the relay. The advantage of this is you do not run the high current the headlights requires through the switch. This current is what causes the connector and switch to fail.

Sometimes the connector goes causing the switch to overheat and fail. Replacing the switch when this happens is a temporary solution unless you replace the mating connector.
If you can get it to work, leave it on for a while then touch the wires coming out of the connector with your hand. If you feel heat, replace the connector as well. Unplug the connector and look for signs of burning on the electrical sockets or plastic inside the connector. This is a sign the connector is bad. If the contact is bad enough, you may not be ale to get the lights to work.
As mentioned above many people buy a relay kit and use the switch to only pull in the relay. The advantage of this is you do not run the high current the headlights requires through the switch. This current is what causes the connector and switch to fail.

Sometimes the connector goes causing the switch to overheat and fail. Replacing the switch when this happens is a temporary solution unless you replace the mating connector.
If you can get it to work, leave it on for a while then touch the wires coming out of the connector with your hand. If you feel heat, replace the connector as well. Unplug the connector and look for signs of burning on the electrical sockets or plastic inside the connector. This is a sign the connector is bad. If the contact is bad enough, you may not be ale to get the lights to work.
As mentioned above many people buy a relay kit and use the switch to only pull in the relay. The advantage of this is you do not run the high current the headlights requires through the switch. This current is what causes the connector and switch to fail.

Having been hit by a Ford Flex fan blade after the blade cracked I would caution everyone from using a flex fan by any manufacture. .
 

Had a wandering problem once which turned out to be the nut was loose on the end of the "power steering control valve".
On the end of the valve there is a cap which is held in place with 2 screws. Remove the cap and it exposes the nut. It should be torqued to a specific value then replace the cap. You may want to check this.