rwcstang

Just wanted to share this with you all, if you're looking for the these books in pdf form.
BOSS302ChassisMod.pdf BOSS302EngineMod.pdf

The V-Band clamp on Vic's set-up really helped in getting the system in and out of the car numerous times. Once the over the axle portion was where is should be, the rest had to be finessed into position. There is a lot of clearance between the bars, nothing is close in this area. Now the tips, thats another story.

 

Just wanted to share this with you all, if you're looking for the these books in pdf form.
BOSS302ChassisMod.pdf BOSS302EngineMod.pdf

Because it's a lot of work, and I'm lazy. True story.

I saw this today- its definitely not DOT approved, but with some messing around it may be acceptable (you don't want to blind oncoming drivers). You could have four headlights for the price of one Holley.
From Capt Kent on VMF
I have a 67 GT500. It uses four 5 3/4 lamps as well. I used these. I had to make a few adjustments with the stand offs on the back. It's not difficult. I threw the H4 bulbs supplied in the trash and ordered the LEDS below.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/253210377279?hash=item3af483bc3f:g:jNMAAOSwsi9eWsaw
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TQLK6SH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

FYI for those of you with 69s, they use 5-3/4" lights. The outer lights have high and low filaments and the inner lights only have high. A 5-3/4" halogen bulb from Sylvania for instance is still very reasonable in price, with the outer H5006 having 35w on Low and 35w on Hi, while the inner bulb H5001 is 50w. The halogens give significantly more light output than the OEM incandescent bulbs, but they have the same electrical characteristics (same wattage/amperage) so while the don't require the use of relays, it would lower the strain on your 50+ year old light switch and the related wiring and connectors. Also the lights should be somewhat brighter using relays, since they are closer to the battery and less wire is involved (less voltage drop), and you can use bigger wire than the factory did to help in that regard also. They are DOT approved so there is no danger of blinding on-coming drivers.
LEDs have the advantage of using much less power, but until Holley came out with their new lights, they weren't DOT approved (in the 5-3/4") and they are much more expensive at $720 for four. For me, halogen are still the only reasonable way to go at only $47.50 for the four. There are zero fitment issues with the halogen H5006 and H5001, because they are the PAR46 bulb size and terminals that were originally designed for our cars. Its truly plug-and-play. 
BTW, the reason the H5006 has a 35w high and low beam is because the filaments are at a different focal point in relation to the reflector and lens. That's to make the high beam reach out further... it's aimed higher.

nice, another coupe coming back to life! show us pictures! I attached a pic of mine, you can mods the coupe in different ways. from stock, old school muscle or the very popular protouring look.
Ideally,  I would like to have a fun street cruiser. I like manual transmissions,  but would settle for an automatic. I'd love to have a 351, but would settle for a 302. I live in fayetteville Arkansas, in the ozarks, so there are a lot of hills here, torque is king..  I will probably end up running holley sniper efi and timing control, but would settle for a carb, as I am familiar with them.  Id like to run on regular gas, 87 would be awesome, but any pump gas is good. 
any stock roller 302/351w with AOD would be best cruiser and to run 87 pump gas if your worried about the gas price.
I'd like 400+ hp/torque.  Enough to show the college kids that old muscle is the best muscle.
I recommend going the stroker route, 302 - 331/347 or 351w 393/408/427, on my old 393 stroker, I was pushing 365 rwhp/400rwtq after a dyno tune. Great street manners and idle however I had cheap heads which caused valve guides/rockers to fail, so Im now my old 393w is getting converted to a 408w with more power and have reliable street manners to run on pump 91 gas.
I would like to update the suspension for a daily driver on curvy back roads.
If you have some cash to burn, start with suspension/brakes/subframe connectors;
front suspension: you have tons of options to go with, but everyone here goes with open tracker or if you want to really upgrade, go with street or track coil over conversion,  I have their front sport coilover kit installed in my coupe and its awesome to drive.
Rear Suspension: I have 4.5 mid eye leafs, but may go with a rear coil over set up later...
Transmission - I dont really want to spend big money on tko And I feel like a t5 is just too small. So, I'll probably find a toploader. I'll run close to stock height tires(25-27 inches), but make them a little fat, for a more aggressive look.  
I have a TKO600, its a good transmission but still notchy when shifting. The new TKX resolves this as it uses some t56 parts. 
T5z would be fine, but Tq capacity is 330-400hp with a good clutch and if you are not using sticky tires. if you can find a cheap top loader, go that route, otherwise TKX is what I would go with, but fyi, there is a huge backlog to get these.

nice, another coupe coming back to life! show us pictures! I attached a pic of mine, you can mods the coupe in different ways. from stock, old school muscle or the very popular protouring look.
Ideally,  I would like to have a fun street cruiser. I like manual transmissions,  but would settle for an automatic. I'd love to have a 351, but would settle for a 302. I live in fayetteville Arkansas, in the ozarks, so there are a lot of hills here, torque is king..  I will probably end up running holley sniper efi and timing control, but would settle for a carb, as I am familiar with them.  Id like to run on regular gas, 87 would be awesome, but any pump gas is good. 
any stock roller 302/351w with AOD would be best cruiser and to run 87 pump gas if your worried about the gas price.
I'd like 400+ hp/torque.  Enough to show the college kids that old muscle is the best muscle.
I recommend going the stroker route, 302 - 331/347 or 351w 393/408/427, on my old 393 stroker, I was pushing 365 rwhp/400rwtq after a dyno tune. Great street manners and idle however I had cheap heads which caused valve guides/rockers to fail, so Im now my old 393w is getting converted to a 408w with more power and have reliable street manners to run on pump 91 gas.
I would like to update the suspension for a daily driver on curvy back roads.
If you have some cash to burn, start with suspension/brakes/subframe connectors;
front suspension: you have tons of options to go with, but everyone here goes with open tracker or if you want to really upgrade, go with street or track coil over conversion,  I have their front sport coilover kit installed in my coupe and its awesome to drive.
Rear Suspension: I have 4.5 mid eye leafs, but may go with a rear coil over set up later...
Transmission - I dont really want to spend big money on tko And I feel like a t5 is just too small. So, I'll probably find a toploader. I'll run close to stock height tires(25-27 inches), but make them a little fat, for a more aggressive look.  
I have a TKO600, its a good transmission but still notchy when shifting. The new TKX resolves this as it uses some t56 parts. 
T5z would be fine, but Tq capacity is 330-400hp with a good clutch and if you are not using sticky tires. if you can find a cheap top loader, go that route, otherwise TKX is what I would go with, but fyi, there is a huge backlog to get these.

replaced my floor pan/inner torque box and toe board. man its easier said in done... now researching how im going to insulate the interior with out using "dynamat" or using a liner. 

Yeah I was wondering how many dents had to be removed from the roof of that Camaro. I am waiting for a reply from LizardSkin to find out if it is hydroscopic and how to remove it if repairs are required.
Edit, I got a quick response:
Once the coating is dry, it has to be submerged in water for 24+ hours to absorb any considerable amount water. It won’t absorb humidity or anything like that. If it does become submerged for prolonged periods, the water can damage the coating’s integrity, but it just depends on the situation and you’d have to see how the coating is holding up after a few days dry time.
If it has to be removed, a grinding wheel is the easiest way to do so. If some does need to be taken off and replaced after the work is done, it can be sprayed back on to the surface as long as it is primed (for steel surfaces) and clean of any dust/debris. You can just slightly overlap with the existing coating to try to make it as seamless as possible.
Hope this answers your questions, please let me know if there is anything else we can help with. Thanks so much.

Thanks guys, I definitely don't want to install dynamat or some form of adhesive mat i think thats just asking for rust to build up again or a heahache to remove the stuff later in the future. 
Lizard skin was my other choice,  but i think it would just get too messy for me.
I think the only logical choice would to prep, primer and seal the floor boards and use a non adhesive heat/acoustic mat but use a 3m double sided tape that is capable to handle heat and not melt or move. this would be easy to service in the future. 
now I just need to find a non adhesive mat lol 
 
 

And again outside temperatures are below 0 °C, so I'm trying to do at least some clean work inside the house.

I actually sold all my mustangs to buy some property and that fell through . I used to double the factory type sound deadner . I use the caulking seam sealer ,if needed it can be spread with a small brush . I recently did a fast back conversion that had the sticky back sound deadener and couldnt get the stuff off ,wound up cutting 1 inch strips and scraped with a putty knife ,took almost a week just to remove enough of it to do my replacement panels ,i will never use it .

Thank you! I've been looking everywhere online and could not find anything. 

RPM, those are real clean fingers; that means you neglecting the Mustang and not getting your hands dirty.

This is the bane of the new generation.   I call it the "history of now". If they find it on their IPhone, it must be true.  
They don't have to worry thought, when their Tesla convertible batteries die and it starts to rain, the top will not go up.  They can go Google that....
 
 

Who ever told you that they didn't make Mustang convertibles in 1969 is just odd and should never be listened to seriously.

Thanks Brian!

I'd vote for Opentracker for quality and to save your wallet a bit. I've seen his parts in person, and they're too quality. He's also a great guy. Street or Track is also top quality but might expensive. Lots of folks swear by the Bilstine shocks. I'm used a stock rebuilt manual box which I love, so I can't help you on power steering. 

I don't know for sure but i believe the only dot approved would be sealed beam lights. 

@lalojamesliz
I have the 6000k.
From Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L45VCT7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - https://www.octanelighting.com/5-34-crystal-clear-glass-metal-headlight-6k-set-033-034-3rd-gen-led-3.html
Octane lighting link: https://www.octanelighting.com/5-34-crystal-clear-glass-metal-headlight-6k-set-033-034-3rd-gen-led-3.html
 

FYI to anyone debating a SOT CoilOver kit: 
SOT will be doing a price increase after their current stock is done. So best to pull the trigger now! 

I have the Dakota Digital RTX Series and what an awesome kit! can give you multiple readings i.e Speed, Oil Pressure, Radiator Temp. You can also adjust these settings in your iOS or Android Phone. you can also change the color of the dials. 
my only gripe with this kit, is it doesn't have the running horse when you select the high beams. thats one thing that I wish that on there. other than that Dakota Digital is a winner for me.

I have Street or Tracks front Coilover setup with stock power steering/spindles. Easy install, fun to drive! 
never went with a Rack and Pinion, because of Header selection, I Think TCP would be top tier kit to go with, other rack n pinion kits have mixed reviews. 
 

Axle bearings would be about it