rwcstang

I went with Undercover innovations, Big noticeable difference in cooling. The temps dropped faster as it directs all air to the radiator instead of having the air hit all sides and try to lift the hood.
you could make your own, I've seen some 69-70 trans am mustang with this setup.
 

I went with Undercover innovations, Big noticeable difference in cooling. The temps dropped faster as it directs all air to the radiator instead of having the air hit all sides and try to lift the hood.
you could make your own, I've seen some 69-70 trans am mustang with this setup.
 

finally got to drive my prestige motorsport crate engine just in time for a popular cruise night that happens in the bay area once a year.
it is a great feeling to get her back on the road. 

ordered a set of low profile caltracs after noticing wheel hop with the 200 tread tires after a few mid rev launches.. definitely not fun lol. 

finally got to drive my prestige motorsport crate engine just in time for a popular cruise night that happens in the bay area once a year.
it is a great feeling to get her back on the road. 

finally got to drive my prestige motorsport crate engine just in time for a popular cruise night that happens in the bay area once a year.
it is a great feeling to get her back on the road. 

I used por 15, it shouldn't hurt it just as long as you prep it/paint it correctly. 
 
 

looking great so far, love the paint work.

I don't have any pics from doing the left side but when I get around to doing the right side I'll take a few.

yeah, I need to check amperage to get the right fuse. from what I was told by dakota digital tech support a 30 amp fuse should do the trick. this is the one thing I haven't done.
I'll need to install a fuse for each relay this weekend and install it one on the green wire.
 

I'd stay away from the edelbrock Top End Kits & carb, they are outdated. 
go with Trickflow's top end kit or use 180 AFR heads with a new moderate cam,  you can use the E303+ cam its modernized slightly https://www.onallcylinders.com/2022/03/10/plus-is-the-new-e-summit-racing-e303-plus-vs-ford-e303-camshaft-comparison/ or call comp cams, and let them know your specs and your power you want to achieve. 
Also Intake can stay, Carb will need to be changed, maybe to a 650 cfm. (stay away from the edelbrock carbs), Headers will need to be 1 5/8 at minimum, I suggest long tubes. 
I have a 427w stroker w/ world products block from prestige motorsports and putting down 460hp/475tq to the wheels with 3:50 gears. I have a 750cfm, Stealth Intake, and 1 5/8 headman headers. 

finally got to drive my prestige motorsport crate engine just in time for a popular cruise night that happens in the bay area once a year.
it is a great feeling to get her back on the road. 

your sensor of the fan activity should be located at the exit of the radiator/entrance to the engine (lower hose).  basically, if the radiator (without fans) is able to adequately cool the fluid before it enters the engine, then there is no point in turning on the fans or have them turned up.    locating that sensor in the intake manifold will basically have you running the fans more necessary.  which of course won't hurt beyond consuming a little more energy/power at certain times.

This would depend on thermostat/environment, my 408w has a 180 thermostat, still testing the fans and trying to find that sweet spot.
Also, this weekend was very hot so I wanted to adjust the fans to come on sooner just to see how it worked. however, even with the 140amp 1 wire alternator, these fans are putting load at idle its jumps from 14.5v and drops to 13.8v - 12.5-7v with both fans on. however, when driving it shoots back up at 14.5v so instead of having both fans going on I re-adjusted the temps again for the second fan to come on a little later.
any suggestions if that type of change in voltage normal? still trying to learn this electrical fan thing as its something new to me. new settings: low fan at 180 and 188 for the high fan. its now between 13.5v - 14v at idle.
also, human error on my part, as I was adjusting the temp via iOS and I noticed the app was throwing off a different temp number compared to the gauges. after reading the manual (go figure) and ran diagnostics, I forgot to configure the temp sender. its now using the BIM I/O cable and now reading accurately with the app and gauges.
 

Alright, update!
 
Finally got my Contour Fan Installed and running. it was a fairly hot day (80 degrees) and engine temps were going from 185-190, seemed the single fan was able to keep down temps as the 2nd fan never kicked off. I used Dakota digital fan relay, PAC-2800BT since I have the RTX Series and give it a cleaner look and less wiring.
 
I used 2 x 70 amp relays from DD.
 
after looking around old threads for mounting ideas, I decided to go with an L Bracket to mount the dual fan. we had to trim the original mounts but otherwise, the installation was a breeze and fit like a glove.
 
I ran diagnostics to check sensors and ran Test Mode via the app and I was able to trigger low and high fans and now the drive, the real test!
 
The single fan was able to kick off with no problem during my drive, with the DD Accessories App, I was able to set up my low & high Temps for both fans. Low would kick off around 188, and close at 185. the second fan, would turn on around 190 and turn off at 188.
 
The single fan was working great, didn't seem to struggle, and definitely could feel it was pulling a lot of air. Today was hot and humid, so engine temps did go up slightly and hit 190 but didn't hear the second fan kick-off, most likely when I drove, the air would make the temps go down since I'm moving in stop-and-go traffic but didn't see it rise above 190.
 
The question I have is would you recommend if I should have both fans going on at the same time or should I have one running and the other kick-off when it gets over 190? This is the first time playing with the setup.
 
Overall, happy with the conversion.

I just remove the rotor in the distributor.

Very nice, @Len69Coupe congrats on the completion.
Hoping to get mine back on the road again. awaiting an engine to be delivered.

Congrats! this is definitely on my to do list in the future. 

agreed, I tried to base my wheel setup on this chart when I started to pick out wheels and tire combos, but soo many ppl had different set ups, its hard to collect that much data as every year a new kit would appear. 
Im happy with my setup 18x9/10 245/40 275/40 with SOT Front Coil Overs and Grab-A-Track 4.5 Mid Eye leafs with Vintage Venom's brake kit: 
 
 

A good rule of thumb is if there are more parts it probably won't be as reliable.

Thanks for all the responses. Figured I would clean and weld and see if I liked the results.  Got some good penetration on tohe welds, tuff to get a couple of them cleaned up but should work for a driver.