rwcstang

The way I did it on my 69 Coupe if you look at the underside of the hood there is a recess for the hood pins about the size of the round trim plate that screws to the top of the hood. I drilled in the center of that recess from the underside, closed the hood then marked the center of the hole in the hood on the radiator support & then drilled the holes in the radiator support for the pins & then install them. Here is a video that could help.
Installing New Hood Pins | Mustang Mach 1 (youtube.com)

I went with these guys. Very responsive on the phone and the service. They turned it around within a week and it came back very professionally finished and packaged. I haven't installed it yet, but I'm confident that it will work as advertised.

Thanks for all the great suggestions and advise.

yes, I have this issue to.
I think its most likely restricted now to keep the bots at bay from posting nsfw photos or ads. Hoping we can change the site soon. 

You can't drop the motor much before the pan hits the engine cross member. Measure the clearance on yours before making it buying lowered mounts.

I run these on my 427w, https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hed-88308/make/ford/model/mustang/year/1969 I did have to use a drop bracket for the p/s setup, I highly recommend these heavy dutiy versions than the cheap ones scott drake sells as those will tear the frame eventually: https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/e5h21.html?a=GoogleProductSearch&sessionthemeid=26&srsltid=AfmBOorzfz3pRboxGCNDMK_5GMyl_bgodvJtNP4k9-UsJRaI89fhn4GVMfw 

It's a never-ending battle, the bots come back every day, sometimes more that once. We need the forum software upgrade - that should kill the bots and allow the site to be secure again which should fix the "unsafe" warnings and let the "like" feature work again.

Mach 1, you may be right, I thought he was talking about the brake booster - which I highly recommend sending it in for a rebuild and not replacing. however, I've seen some rebuilders do both MC and booster so that still could be a thing. 
in regards to the MC, its probably cheaper to get a replacement online, like summitracing, napa, oreilly auto and getting shipped if none are local, he just needs to know his bore size and swap over the pushrod before he tosses the old MC. 
I do recall some stores use to sell rebuild kits for MCs back in the day, but I think its just cheaper to replace now. My other suggestion is for op try http://www.chockostangclassicmustang.com/ and see what he recommends he knows his OE brake/steering stuff. 

gonna be tough with the brand, I bought it years ago but its a 24" 2 or 3 row I believe. 
for now, ill just do a prestone 50/50 since its already premixed and ill add a additive to help with cooling/lubricate the water pump. my go was driven CSP,  but going to try VP Racing Cool Down Additive. 
VMF woodchuck helped I will also add a Sacrificial anode to help with electrosys. 

just rebuild your unit, send it to that company in the video or the one I linked,  or find someone local.
not hard to look up in google search engine, plenty of vendors that can rebuild your unit.  

If you want to use the original radio and upgrade it to todays wiz-bang stuff (you can even give it voice commands), you may want to try this: https://www.tech-retro.com/aurora-design/home.html
 

Animal House is one of absolute favorite movies! 
As much as I like VMF, 69stang is my true home. 

Animal House is one of absolute favorite movies! 
As much as I like VMF, 69stang is my true home. 

Thanks, the FRPP Hoodpins are around $45.00 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m-16700-a so its a great buy compared to the overseas made pins that scott drake sells. 
I was also thinking flush hood pins with the locks: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/qul-ql-38-lpbp or push-in type https://www.summitracing.com/parts/qul-ql-38-lpbp since Im more in the resto mod category, however, the FRPP seems to be the best one with out cutting too much into the hood. 

Glad the site is back up n running!
 
Happy New Year everyone!

Glad the site is back up n running!
 
Happy New Year everyone!

Bots are hitting the site and causing the issues.  I am working with tech support still to try and fix it.  I thought it was already resolved.  There is another issue with upgrading the forum software I need to take care of but it currently crashes the entire forum so I am unwilling to do so until I have ample time to devote to it.  I am hoping to have the bot issue resolved by the end of the week.
Just a little update for you guys.  Bandwidth upgrade would only be a bandaid and not a full solution, so do not feel obligated to donate any more money.  And thanks for your donations so far that should cover the monthly losses for the remainder of the year.

Picked up an aftermarket bumper from NPD and sat for months before I tried to install it this past weekend, and man the fitment was terrible, no way to properly adjust it and get it perfect. the outer hole mount bracket would not line up with the inner braket, as the bumper ear hole mounts are too forward while the other was too far back. 
luckily, going through craigslist, I picked up a set of OE 69 front and rear bumpers from an old chrome plating shop that went out of business. Renee has been in the chrome plating business for over 30+ years and was helping one of her partners sell off their old inventory cores. Most were already worked on, but was pending chrome plating before the biz stopped. 
also, I found this doc which was informative prior to picking up the bumper, its how to ID Original 69-70 front bumpers to an aftermarket one, which matched to the bumper I just picked up. 
Sad to see these type of chrome plating/repair shops go out of the business... I wish I could have seen and learned from these old shops, I may have picked up a new skill/trade, lol now I just gotta find a local chrome plating shop. 
Her Name is Renee, based in San Jose, CA her cell number is (408) 690 3465 | most of the inventory are from the 60/s70s, she gave the green light to share her info for anyone interested and is willing to ship within the US. 
Craigslist link: https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/pts/d/san-jose-ford-mustang-front-bumper-core/7659256576.html
 
 






69_70_front_bumper_id.pdf

Since the site is back up I figured it was time for a final review and update of the SOT 3-link and help those who are possibly thinking of going this route.
I still had issues after setting the ride height/pinion angle, the car still was too either stiff when the car ride height was high causing the car jump around and not abosrb the road well or sat too low causing the axle and center section to bottom out. I couldn't find a medium after trying to tune it, eventually, I decided to take it to my trusted shop and have them work with them, as they have installed these kits before in other cars and have them recheck my work.
The shop confirmed my issues and relayed it to SOT but received no calls. Now one of the reasons I took it to my shop is Shaun quit responding to my emails/calls for a month, only way for him to notice and respond is I had to post a major update on the VMF thread. Im pretty sure he didn't like what I said to say about his 3link and probably thought I was bat shit crazy or dumb not able to get it right the first time. But I felt SOT wasn't helping, I was at the point of ripping it out all and going back to my leaf spring setup.
Eventually, he responded got in contact with the shop and contacted me that he was going to make it right. In the end, the Shock End Rod End that mounts to the axle was a 1/2 and SOT sent me a 1" rod end (heim joint) to get more droop and adjustability, this worked out and resolved my issues. 
I could finally drive this thing and really test the car out.
The Pros:
the car handles very well, especially on a rough street, it doesn't bottom out or wheel hop, the watts link is a nice touch and helps out alot with lateral axle movement.
The Cons:
the install manual was the most infuriating thing ever, it was NOT straight forward and heavily out dated with small pics. - Shaun agreed that it was outdated and he was going to update it asap....
Tuning the suspension, its not fun and NOT easy. you have to raise the car and drop the rear axle to access the 3rd-link, this wastes a ton of time and its not fun laying on your back doing this by your self. I think with a friend it makes it easier but still not fun. I think this is where the 4-link is much better option and easier to access/tune.
Shocks/axle mount needs more adjustability for proper height adjustment, like TCP and other 4links kits out there, the shock mount has different positions to raise or lower the car. however, with SOT shock mount it is fixed and only way to adjust ride height is through the coilover sleeve and creates limitations, this is where the new longer rod end joint comes into play.
In the end, is it worth the hype? Im 50/50 but not 100%, ride quality is good, but I felt there wasn't a difference with cars that have 4links or cars with HD leafs with Panhards or watts link, i think these kits are more of the Flex or WOW factor, but in the end I bit the bullet and wanted to find out for myself.
Now Im not saying dont' go with their 3rd link or brand, I still think their Front CoilOvers are one of the best conversions I did and really love that kit, but the 3link is okay, but not great, this manual and kit still needs a few tweaks before it becomes user friendly.
if I were to do this all over again, I'd would have gone the cheaper route, I would have upgraded to HD Leafs, added a Panhard and add Shelby HD TBs or caltracs to eliminate the wheel hop. hell, if the trans-am mustangs had no issue with it back then Im sure they are still the best budget option.
Ill keep driving this thing and maybe it will grow on me, if I have a change of heart I have no issue going back to leafs, stock axle and just go with a panhard kit as I decided not to sell my old rear end suspension.
now the only issue Im having now is with Strange Engineering's TT rear end, it whines like crazy.. even with the 3:50 gears they installed. luckily I have a 1yr and will ship it back to get the gears inspected.
 
 

Pardon the crude drawing. Took all measurements from the center of the pie cuts. Meaning that 22 1/4 is from the center of the pie cut on the cuts closest to the front of the hood. It was just getting messy. Mirrored measurements are all the same. All the pie cuts are the same size, the lengths of the two sides shown are if the lines continued straight instead of curving. The shapes of the forward two cuts are different on the radius, which you can see on the photo Ridge sent. If you have to cut the underside of the hood for the turn signals, those rear two oval measurement will be different from the top of the hood shown here. 

I have the measurements if y'all can wait till later tonight or in the morning so I can make them readable. 

took some time today.
first right height, roughly under 25" new height is above 25"

took some time today.
first right height, roughly under 25" new height is above 25"

took some time today.
first right height, roughly under 25" new height is above 25"

Your Shocks are most likely failing...
When I had my old mid-eye leaf springs, I had the same issue, come to find out it was my old Shocks (KYB) were failing and the leaf spring bushings were also worn out. I upgraded to Bilstein shocks and went with a de-a-lum bushing and shackle kit with greaseable fittings, the problem went away.
I would also check the leaf springs for any damage, warpage, or cracks.

try using firefox or different browser, for some reason on chrome it requires to sign-in or it won't show. its on my gdrive and that link is for public view (go figure) lol. 
The fluid was more powder like, like a metallic flake paint, I hovered a magnet over the stream would move slightly. 
in regards to the rebound shock part, I let shaun know and he responded back: I haven't had a need to modify the shocks.  There won't be an enormous amount of droop travel, it isn't really required unless you are picking up inside rear wheel in turns (won't happen) or are off roading it (not going to happen hopefully). 
again, I'm not going modify anything with out his Shaun's guidance/approval, but it was just a concern from the shop Tech as I wanted transparency on the install.  
As for the rear end gear whine Shaun followed up with me yesterday and spoke with his Strange Engineering rep: 
PRF130 WITH TRUTRAC
DID HE DO THE BREAK IN PROCEDURE ?
SEE THE NOTES  IN THE PDF ATTACHED
THEY ARE TIGHT AND WILL MAKE NOISE
FOLLOW THE BREAK IN PROCEDURE
USE 85-140 NON SYNTHETIC OIL  
IF STILL ISSUES  HE WILL  HAVE TO SEND IT IN FOR INSPECTION
PLEASE ADVISE
I've already responded back with answers and follow up questions: 
200 miles in breakin procedure, but stopped due to the gear whine and didn't want to void warranty.  First used Master Pro 85w-140 conventional gear oil changed fluids to Lucas 85w-140 Conventional gear oil What Brand Gear am I using? Some Brands tend to have gear whine (Im running on 3:50's) In regards to a "tight fit" (which will make noise), is there a way to know what the tolerances are for this type of setup? i.e backlash set up..etc. Ill take pics of the stance on where it sits now haven't had the time due to work.