rwcstang

Animal House is one of absolute favorite movies! 
As much as I like VMF, 69stang is my true home. 

Animal House is one of absolute favorite movies! 
As much as I like VMF, 69stang is my true home. 

Thanks, the FRPP Hoodpins are around $45.00 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m-16700-a so its a great buy compared to the overseas made pins that scott drake sells. 
I was also thinking flush hood pins with the locks: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/qul-ql-38-lpbp or push-in type https://www.summitracing.com/parts/qul-ql-38-lpbp since Im more in the resto mod category, however, the FRPP seems to be the best one with out cutting too much into the hood. 

Glad the site is back up n running!
 
Happy New Year everyone!

Glad the site is back up n running!
 
Happy New Year everyone!

Bots are hitting the site and causing the issues.  I am working with tech support still to try and fix it.  I thought it was already resolved.  There is another issue with upgrading the forum software I need to take care of but it currently crashes the entire forum so I am unwilling to do so until I have ample time to devote to it.  I am hoping to have the bot issue resolved by the end of the week.
Just a little update for you guys.  Bandwidth upgrade would only be a bandaid and not a full solution, so do not feel obligated to donate any more money.  And thanks for your donations so far that should cover the monthly losses for the remainder of the year.

Picked up an aftermarket bumper from NPD and sat for months before I tried to install it this past weekend, and man the fitment was terrible, no way to properly adjust it and get it perfect. the outer hole mount bracket would not line up with the inner braket, as the bumper ear hole mounts are too forward while the other was too far back. 
luckily, going through craigslist, I picked up a set of OE 69 front and rear bumpers from an old chrome plating shop that went out of business. Renee has been in the chrome plating business for over 30+ years and was helping one of her partners sell off their old inventory cores. Most were already worked on, but was pending chrome plating before the biz stopped. 
also, I found this doc which was informative prior to picking up the bumper, its how to ID Original 69-70 front bumpers to an aftermarket one, which matched to the bumper I just picked up. 
Sad to see these type of chrome plating/repair shops go out of the business... I wish I could have seen and learned from these old shops, I may have picked up a new skill/trade, lol now I just gotta find a local chrome plating shop. 
Her Name is Renee, based in San Jose, CA her cell number is (408) 690 3465 | most of the inventory are from the 60/s70s, she gave the green light to share her info for anyone interested and is willing to ship within the US. 
Craigslist link: https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/pts/d/san-jose-ford-mustang-front-bumper-core/7659256576.html
 
 






69_70_front_bumper_id.pdf

Since the site is back up I figured it was time for a final review and update of the SOT 3-link and help those who are possibly thinking of going this route.
I still had issues after setting the ride height/pinion angle, the car still was too either stiff when the car ride height was high causing the car jump around and not abosrb the road well or sat too low causing the axle and center section to bottom out. I couldn't find a medium after trying to tune it, eventually, I decided to take it to my trusted shop and have them work with them, as they have installed these kits before in other cars and have them recheck my work.
The shop confirmed my issues and relayed it to SOT but received no calls. Now one of the reasons I took it to my shop is Shaun quit responding to my emails/calls for a month, only way for him to notice and respond is I had to post a major update on the VMF thread. Im pretty sure he didn't like what I said to say about his 3link and probably thought I was bat shit crazy or dumb not able to get it right the first time. But I felt SOT wasn't helping, I was at the point of ripping it out all and going back to my leaf spring setup.
Eventually, he responded got in contact with the shop and contacted me that he was going to make it right. In the end, the Shock End Rod End that mounts to the axle was a 1/2 and SOT sent me a 1" rod end (heim joint) to get more droop and adjustability, this worked out and resolved my issues. 
I could finally drive this thing and really test the car out.
The Pros:
the car handles very well, especially on a rough street, it doesn't bottom out or wheel hop, the watts link is a nice touch and helps out alot with lateral axle movement.
The Cons:
the install manual was the most infuriating thing ever, it was NOT straight forward and heavily out dated with small pics. - Shaun agreed that it was outdated and he was going to update it asap....
Tuning the suspension, its not fun and NOT easy. you have to raise the car and drop the rear axle to access the 3rd-link, this wastes a ton of time and its not fun laying on your back doing this by your self. I think with a friend it makes it easier but still not fun. I think this is where the 4-link is much better option and easier to access/tune.
Shocks/axle mount needs more adjustability for proper height adjustment, like TCP and other 4links kits out there, the shock mount has different positions to raise or lower the car. however, with SOT shock mount it is fixed and only way to adjust ride height is through the coilover sleeve and creates limitations, this is where the new longer rod end joint comes into play.
In the end, is it worth the hype? Im 50/50 but not 100%, ride quality is good, but I felt there wasn't a difference with cars that have 4links or cars with HD leafs with Panhards or watts link, i think these kits are more of the Flex or WOW factor, but in the end I bit the bullet and wanted to find out for myself.
Now Im not saying dont' go with their 3rd link or brand, I still think their Front CoilOvers are one of the best conversions I did and really love that kit, but the 3link is okay, but not great, this manual and kit still needs a few tweaks before it becomes user friendly.
if I were to do this all over again, I'd would have gone the cheaper route, I would have upgraded to HD Leafs, added a Panhard and add Shelby HD TBs or caltracs to eliminate the wheel hop. hell, if the trans-am mustangs had no issue with it back then Im sure they are still the best budget option.
Ill keep driving this thing and maybe it will grow on me, if I have a change of heart I have no issue going back to leafs, stock axle and just go with a panhard kit as I decided not to sell my old rear end suspension.
now the only issue Im having now is with Strange Engineering's TT rear end, it whines like crazy.. even with the 3:50 gears they installed. luckily I have a 1yr and will ship it back to get the gears inspected.
 
 

Pardon the crude drawing. Took all measurements from the center of the pie cuts. Meaning that 22 1/4 is from the center of the pie cut on the cuts closest to the front of the hood. It was just getting messy. Mirrored measurements are all the same. All the pie cuts are the same size, the lengths of the two sides shown are if the lines continued straight instead of curving. The shapes of the forward two cuts are different on the radius, which you can see on the photo Ridge sent. If you have to cut the underside of the hood for the turn signals, those rear two oval measurement will be different from the top of the hood shown here. 

I have the measurements if y'all can wait till later tonight or in the morning so I can make them readable. 

took some time today.
first right height, roughly under 25" new height is above 25"

took some time today.
first right height, roughly under 25" new height is above 25"

took some time today.
first right height, roughly under 25" new height is above 25"

Your Shocks are most likely failing...
When I had my old mid-eye leaf springs, I had the same issue, come to find out it was my old Shocks (KYB) were failing and the leaf spring bushings were also worn out. I upgraded to Bilstein shocks and went with a de-a-lum bushing and shackle kit with greaseable fittings, the problem went away.
I would also check the leaf springs for any damage, warpage, or cracks.

try using firefox or different browser, for some reason on chrome it requires to sign-in or it won't show. its on my gdrive and that link is for public view (go figure) lol. 
The fluid was more powder like, like a metallic flake paint, I hovered a magnet over the stream would move slightly. 
in regards to the rebound shock part, I let shaun know and he responded back: I haven't had a need to modify the shocks.  There won't be an enormous amount of droop travel, it isn't really required unless you are picking up inside rear wheel in turns (won't happen) or are off roading it (not going to happen hopefully). 
again, I'm not going modify anything with out his Shaun's guidance/approval, but it was just a concern from the shop Tech as I wanted transparency on the install.  
As for the rear end gear whine Shaun followed up with me yesterday and spoke with his Strange Engineering rep: 
PRF130 WITH TRUTRAC
DID HE DO THE BREAK IN PROCEDURE ?
SEE THE NOTES  IN THE PDF ATTACHED
THEY ARE TIGHT AND WILL MAKE NOISE
FOLLOW THE BREAK IN PROCEDURE
USE 85-140 NON SYNTHETIC OIL  
IF STILL ISSUES  HE WILL  HAVE TO SEND IT IN FOR INSPECTION
PLEASE ADVISE
I've already responded back with answers and follow up questions: 
200 miles in breakin procedure, but stopped due to the gear whine and didn't want to void warranty.  First used Master Pro 85w-140 conventional gear oil changed fluids to Lucas 85w-140 Conventional gear oil What Brand Gear am I using? Some Brands tend to have gear whine (Im running on 3:50's) In regards to a "tight fit" (which will make noise), is there a way to know what the tolerances are for this type of setup? i.e backlash set up..etc. Ill take pics of the stance on where it sits now haven't had the time due to work. 
 
 

I couldn't get the video to play. I've never had new gears, but I don't think shavings are normal. Are they shavings or powder like?For the price of what stuff costs today, I wouldn't put up with a loud whine. I had a set of used 3.70 gears that were very loud, and no amount of adjustment could quiet them. 
That rear rebound situation sounds goofy. What did Shaun say about it? Can you post pics of your car ride height and rear coil overs?
 

Alright update 2: Original thread: https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/sot-3-link-watts-install.1209996/
After checking pinion angles, I finally was able to get the right angles I needed. Thanks to you all and Shaun from SOT. 
I took the car for a drive but car kept bottoming out and had a loud thump (pinion yoke hit the 3rd link heim joint) after readjusting the coilovers (more height) and resetting pinion angles car was much better and wasn't bottoming out. Finally, I took the car to an alignment speed shop here in mountain view to redo the front alignment and check the rear suspension if there was any issues. 
tech said everything was good with front alignment so no major big change, other than my idler arm was failing (was on my list to do anyways), so we swapped it to open trackers roller idler arm.
as for the rear suspension, shock compression was good, but rebound of the shock was a concern, he showed me by lifting the car on the lift it would not fully extend would move have 1/4 an inch, but suggested if I want full rebound (better ride quality) possibly a 1/2 - 1" coil over spacer may work but overall due to the limitation shock mount, its leaves little to no major re-adjustment like the TCP Quadra link or other kits out there, only real adjustment you have is to adjust the coil over spring. 
now, during the break-in process of the strange rearend, I have been getting this gear whine since first install, noted I understand some kits like mine will make noise as the 3rd link or 4 links brackets are welded on to the rearend housing which causes the noise. however, I spoke with others that have this kit and seen their videos, none provide this gear whine. let me know what you think. 
https://drive.google.com/file/d/10eIgOuF0ek8i8K0XVhzRjR6q1tqahJiZ/view 
emailed SOT, said that is normal i need to add sound deadener to limit the vibration sounds, however in the main cabin has some sound deadener but not the trunk. I still think it's the gears making this noise. 
per strange engineering break in procedure I need to use non synthetic 85w-140, I used Motion Pro (Oreilly brand) first, then after 200 miles, I decided to change fluids I did see metal shavings, assuming this is normal during breakin. 
I changed fluids again but I used lucas 85w-140, however, no real change and the whine is loud above 40mph
SOT hasn't responded, Im sure he's probably busy so ill wait and email again. but if no action is taken, Im going to remove the rear and send it back to strange for inspection. 
Ugh, just when you think you can enjoy the car you go back to square 1. 
 
 
 
 

+1 I had 03/04 Cobra brake front and rear and they were one of the best kits I had before upgrading.
servicing them is easy as they are off the shelf parts, I also recommend Mustang Steve brackets aswell as they retain the oe track width.  

yep, I have this in my TKO600 aswell.
np, happy to share the info! aint no way Im paying $40 dollars more, plus ship/tax for a shifter that's being resold. no offense to MDL, but the price gouging is insane.

I have a Ron Morris controller I planned to use then one I got the Dakota rtx I saw it was available and the phone programming like you said sold me!

Looking good so far @lalojamesliz
Those Contour fans are a great mod, especially with the DD Controller, its so helpful that you can set the control temps via phone. 

It's been a long while since I've posted a update but a good friend made my MC bar recently and I finished my plug wires just now.  
The msd ones I had on were rubbing against the shock towers.  
Next I run my starter solenoid and power line then wire up the contour fans.  Just a single 10ga power wire to each from my relays inside  controlled by my Dakota controller and I'll ground them to the frame or something. 
Then I'll start hiding all the wires with my flame retardant wire loom and make it look nicer.   Almost.....

I have a sqeak coming from somewhere behind the front seats. After much investigation I found if I turn up the stereo real load the sqeak goes away. 

@bigmal Im sorting something similar with my SOT 3 link, but I have a TKO. I have yet to try it, but since I dont have a garage, the rain is keeping me at bay. 
but to piggy back of of Det, and Im sure you have done this, put the car on an even surface with jacks, so it can mimic the car is on full weight on tires, measure the transmission tailend with an inclinometer or app on your phone, measure how many degrees the transmission tail is, measure the drive shaft angle and finally pinion angle. 
at least for my set up, SOT recommended my car to be around, 3-4 degrees Transmission down and 3-4 degrees pinion up. of course have the transmission and pinion be centered at 0 degrees should cause no vibration. 
 
 

@TexasEd
too bad you are not in SF, California, Im selling my old mustang 67-70 rear end with ford 9 28 spline, truetrac since I converted to a 3link and upgraded to Strange's ford 9 31 TT spline.
Good luck with your search!