rwcstang

did the same, I removed mine to give a cleaner look.

been watching the highlights of WRC on youtube recently....so crazy how they drive. no fear!

totally agree, I want to go EFI, but wasn't sure if this would add extra "Umf" to the reliability and performance. most likely a digital box would make sense, but wondering how reliable those boxes are?

yeah, Im still going through my engine build and I agree it is a bit pricey, I wanted to see if it makes a difference in reliability and performance. Unfortunately, there is no data to compare both the old ignition system vs DIS My current ignition setup never gave me issues, so its best to stick with what I have for now.

Wondering if anyone has done a DIS swap on their Carb Application. Read that its both compatible with EFI/Carb, its almost like a MSD 6AL ignition box. Most modern motors have this setup as its the norm, but wondering if this would be a good upgrade for our carb'd push rod motors. any thoughts? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-601533?addwishlistsku=MSD-601533 https://www.holley.com/blog/post/adding_modern_coil-per-cylinder_ignition_to_a_vintage_engine/

my 69 coupe had the same thing, did the chassis strengthening kit and welded all the hairline cracks, never had an issue since and I did autocross, which was scary at first but it never cracked again or show signs of stress. if your car is 1 or 500 somethings or going concourse.. then I would go the extra mile and replacing the shock towers and reuse the chassis stiffening kit that is installed now.

Depends on what you plan on doing. if you just want to go with a refresher: upgrading shocks and spring/leafs. Spring/Coil: Eaton Detroit Springs: https://www.eatondetroitspring.com/ Shocks: Bilstien Shocks Tires: BFG, Cobra Coopers or any good summer tire. also, upgrading the sway bar 1" or 1 1/8" should be good, replace all bushings/tierods/strut rods. if you want to go further, i.e roller bearing spring perches and adjustable strut rods, start looking at https://opentrackerracing.com if you want to go with performance and pro-touring: Coil-over setups Street Or Track Front and rear coil overs - I have their front coil overs and love them: https://streetortrack.com/ Maier Racing or Mike Maier Inc (too expensive for my taste): https://mikemaierinc.com/ & https://www.maierracing.com/ Total Control products: http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/ Global West Suspension: https://www.globalwest.net/ Im sure I am missing a few, but you have loads of options.

in that case, give it to me. Ill take care of it ;)

nice, any more pictures how the exhaust was routed through the panhard bar? Im between using something like or going with SOT's rear coil over kit.

I get what your saying SWpruett but this information in the book is widely known and tons of race shops sell these parts that were taken from the book. i.e Maier, opentracker, Cobranda and few engine builders to name a few. you can type the book name in any search engine and this pdf will appear on multiple free sites. If someone wants to buy a hard copy of the book, then yes, spend the $10... imo information on a car no longer being produced shouldn't gate keep this type of info and should be shared freely and digitally. But I leave this up to the mods, if they feel I broke the rules then I will allow them to remove this post.

Just wanted to share this with you all, if you're looking for the these books in pdf form. BOSS302ChassisMod.pdf BOSS302EngineMod.pdf

just to add to that, you can buy the headlight lense from amazon.com for starting from $21 bucks: https://www.amazon.com/IPCW-CWC-7003-Plain-Conversion-Headlight/dp/B000NZUQ56/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2KR7H9HST5464&keywords=5+3%2F4+headlights&qid=1641315121&sprefix=5+3%2F4+headlights%2Caps%2C127&sr=8-4 https://www.amazon.com/Round-Style-Premium-Headlights-Upgrade/dp/B007KB0O12/ref=sr_1_9?crid=WGN3J5XNXP1E&keywords=5+3%2F4+headlight+bulb&qid=1641315265&sprefix=5+3%2F4+headlight+bulb%2Caps%2C129&sr=8-9 https://www.amazon.com/Hella-002850871-HLMP-135MM-12V/dp/B00F3ZTW56/ref=sr_1_2?crid=35LNMOKQLJUTJ&keywords=hella+5+3%2F4+headlight&qid=1641338580&sprefix=hella+5+3%2F4+%2Caps%2C160&sr=8-2 so quite a few options

Thanks Ed, looks like ill be looking for a rubber grommet from the old post. What size did you use? going to buy an assortment kit.

it had a mild cam which produced enough vacuum at idle, not sure on the specs though, I bought this engine through FPS in LA 15 years ago, I say cam lift was probably around 512+ however, Im unsure on the lobe separation. Heads are 195 that was 58cc with 1.6 rockers, Weiand Stealth intake and 750cfm carb and ran 1 5/8 long tube headers I am also running a ford 9 with 3:50 gears, so engine hp was around 430hp 480-500tq = 365rwhp 400rwtq. It had tremendous amount of torque, which I loved! I couldn't shift from 1-2 from a dead stop as 1st gear was pretty much useless, TQ/hp would come in around 3k and drop power would drop around 5800rpm. most newer cars can spin up to 6500-7k. My engine could have done the same, but I suspected the rear end gears, stealth Intake and long tube headers size restricted this. Overall the it was a great engine! what I like about my tko it has 64 OD, so on the freeway at 65 mph, I was at 2k rpm so highway driving was a breeze and more bearable. My car was also a 6cyl and auto car, so it took a lot blood/sweat and tears and I've been modding since I was 16. Im now 36 and still can't get enough of this car, lol. Thanks to this forum and the guys here, they helped me alot.

nice, another coupe coming back to life! show us pictures! I attached a pic of mine, you can mods the coupe in different ways. from stock, old school muscle or the very popular protouring look. Ideally, I would like to have a fun street cruiser. I like manual transmissions, but would settle for an automatic. I'd love to have a 351, but would settle for a 302. I live in fayetteville Arkansas, in the ozarks, so there are a lot of hills here, torque is king.. I will probably end up running holley sniper efi and timing control, but would settle for a carb, as I am familiar with them. Id like to run on regular gas, 87 would be awesome, but any pump gas is good. any stock roller 302/351w with AOD would be best cruiser and to run 87 pump gas if your worried about the gas price. I'd like 400+ hp/torque. Enough to show the college kids that old muscle is the best muscle. I recommend going the stroker route, 302 - 331/347 or 351w 393/408/427, on my old 393 stroker, I was pushing 365 rwhp/400rwtq after a dyno tune. Great street manners and idle however I had cheap heads which caused valve guides/rockers to fail, so Im now my old 393w is getting converted to a 408w with more power and have reliable street manners to run on pump 91 gas. I would like to update the suspension for a daily driver on curvy back roads. If you have some cash to burn, start with suspension/brakes/subframe connectors; front suspension: you have tons of options to go with, but everyone here goes with open tracker or if you want to really upgrade, go with street or track coil over conversion, I have their front sport coilover kit installed in my coupe and its awesome to drive. Rear Suspension: I have 4.5 mid eye leafs, but may go with a rear coil over set up later... Transmission - I dont really want to spend big money on tko And I feel like a t5 is just too small. So, I'll probably find a toploader. I'll run close to stock height tires(25-27 inches), but make them a little fat, for a more aggressive look. I have a TKO600, its a good transmission but still notchy when shifting. The new TKX resolves this as it uses some t56 parts. T5z would be fine, but Tq capacity is 330-400hp with a good clutch and if you are not using sticky tires. if you can find a cheap top loader, go that route, otherwise TKX is what I would go with, but fyi, there is a huge backlog to get these.

@TexasEd no, doesn't have to be correct, just need something to compress the spring, anything you recommend?

Update - replaced toeboard, inner torque box, flr pan and seat riser. need a couple of measurements, need to drill two holes for the highbeam switch, can anyone take any measurements from the ecable hole for me? Also, I noticed my ebrake return spring clip is broken, and need a replacement, anyone know the part number or where I can find this? I've looked at NPD/CJPP and WCC but maybe Im not looking hard enough.

@Berto77 this post is from 2015, it would be best to start a new thread. I have 18x9/10 fr500s on my 69 coupe, but you will need to run a wheel adapter/spacer. If you buy those type of wheels, buy from 94-04 mustang wheel. you may need a 1" spacer in front and 1/2 in the back, but that depends on your brake setup. Assuming if you are on a disc/drum setup.

gotta search which ford 8 rears had 3:25'/3:50s, I think they are full size fords like LTD/fairlane/galaxie/ possibly mavericks and cougars. Im not sure which junk yards would have them since at least for me, junkyards near me do not carry old classic cars/parts anymore, just car from 80s - 90's + era vehicles. I would contact West Coast Cougar as they have a yard with old parts, maybe you can barter or buy a 3rd member from them. you are correct that ford 8/9 had different axle widths, I think what @Rsanter is saying is find a complete used rearend with 3:25 and just simply swap out the complete 3rd member (pumpkin) and install it into your current rear end housing since its a direct swap and sell your old one in the other rear end housing since it is not a direct fit, or keep for storage if you have the space.

replaced my floor pan/inner torque box and toe board. man its easier said in done... now researching how im going to insulate the interior with out using "dynamat" or using a liner.

Thanks guys, I definitely don't want to install dynamat or some form of adhesive mat i think thats just asking for rust to build up again or a heahache to remove the stuff later in the future. Lizard skin was my other choice, but i think it would just get too messy for me. I think the only logical choice would to prep, primer and seal the floor boards and use a non adhesive heat/acoustic mat but use a 3m double sided tape that is capable to handle heat and not melt or move. this would be easy to service in the future. now I just need to find a non adhesive mat lol

for your first question: what mods does your engine have? is it stock? Mild? Wild? it sounds like you may have a stock engine with some mods, but details would be great. if you are worried about high RPMs, I would recommend 3:00 or 3:25s over 3:50's or 3:73's I have a ford 9 with 3:50s Trutrac rear end with a TKO with 64 overdrive. I hit 2k at 65mph. I think with the c4 you'll be at 2200-2500k rpm depending on tire size. going 3:73 will raise your RPMs alot, unless you have a manual or Auto w/Overdrive. I would use a rpm calculator to get an estimate. 2 - never bought from ebay, however there is one gent that sells 3rd members, I think some members on here have bought from him. https://www.ebay.com/itm/333955300971?epid=1717878485&hash=item4dc1497e6b:g:xRMAAMXQ0pNQ9gEa 3 - you can change out the gears, but you might aswell make it a posi unit, sure it'll be more cash but at least you did the swap all at once and didn't pay twice to remove it and upgrade. 4 - if it were me, I would go with a full 9 conversion but a ford 8 can handle power. doesn't matter if its a ford 8 or 9 as long as the 3rd member and axles are upgraded with good parts. 5. I would also put a shift kit on your c4 with a 2500 stall convertor. this will give you the push you want aswell event if you stick with the 2:79 rear end.

Hi Ridge! good to hear from ya! Thank you for for recommendation, in regards to the seam sealer, Im assuming it was brushed on in larger areas, while the small areas used a caulking gun? I've read alot of pros and cons to the sound/heat deadener mats, so Im leaning more to spray on kit like lizard skin or just using primer and sealer to protect it from rust. have you done anything to your cars to keep out heat and sound? I was trying to look for something similar to the mats they used under the rug, but couldn't find anything close to it.

Hey All, wanted to your advice on the best Sound and Heat Insulation and seam sealer prep. Going to reseam some of the areas of the interior as most of it is dried up then primer and seal up the interior floor pans. Also, I would like to use modern sound/heat deadener but read that if not prepped properly, rust can come back or some of the deader is not true Buytl rubber as its mixed with Asphalt which can trap moisture. any advice on prep and brand to use? I've read you can use frost king from home depot aswell.