rwcstang

I've seen some sensors location front/behind the cylinder head, I've seen some that are located on thermostat housing or on lower radiator hose like buckeye mentioned. however, my sensor is on the intake manifold. just did my contour fan conversion, I have the DD guages and DD bt fan controller. I set my fan to 190(first fan) and shut off at 185, my second fan goes on at 195 and shut off at 190 (electric fan). another plus to this DD setup if I used the bim i/o cable, both fans can shut off when Im going over 50mph to let air through and not cause any disruption with airflow. I may need to adjust the temps and relocate the temp sensor as buckeye mentions a good point, as I have noticed my e-fans at times consume some power and noticed the rpms/voltage would drop.

move the large rounded part if the clip downward by the slot facing below and use a thin flat head screw driver or needle nose pliers through the slot/rounded part and pull downward..slowly, I recommend using a shop rag to cover it so it does't fly out and hit your eye or get lost. if that clip doesnt move use some lube oil (any oil) or wd40 to help with lubrication.

Probably the coolest EV out there.. probably the only EV I would want to own/buy. if only they made super vans for production.. that would be boss. https://jalopnik.com/the-ford-supervan-returns-as-an-ev-supercar-shaped-like-1849099315 Those not familiar with the ford super van, here is the original one: EV super van.webp f531fad2e89dcbbc65ad535d0417cc8f.webp

yeah, I need to check amperage to get the right fuse. from what I was told by dakota digital tech support a 30 amp fuse should do the trick. this is the one thing I haven't done. I'll need to install a fuse for each relay this weekend and install it one on the green wire.

Nah I have the tuff stuff 1g 140amp alternator. $700 is a bit much for my taste lol. adjusted the second fan to go on later and shut off early so it would not put a major load on the alternator, I’m now between 14.0 - 14.5v at idle since the single fan is on. for those out there running the contour fan, is this Normal for voltage to fluctuate at idle when both fans are on? I have 2 x 70 amp relays. Would I need to run a fuse on each relay?

This would depend on thermostat/environment, my 408w has a 180 thermostat, still testing the fans and trying to find that sweet spot. Also, this weekend was very hot so I wanted to adjust the fans to come on sooner just to see how it worked. however, even with the 140amp 1 wire alternator, these fans are putting load at idle its jumps from 14.5v and drops to 13.8v - 12.5-7v with both fans on. however, when driving it shoots back up at 14.5v so instead of having both fans going on I re-adjusted the temps again for the second fan to come on a little later. any suggestions if that type of change in voltage normal? still trying to learn this electrical fan thing as its something new to me. new settings: low fan at 180 and 188 for the high fan. its now between 13.5v - 14v at idle. also, human error on my part, as I was adjusting the temp via iOS and I noticed the app was throwing off a different temp number compared to the gauges. after reading the manual (go figure) and ran diagnostics, I forgot to configure the temp sender. its now using the BIM I/O cable and now reading accurately with the app and gauges.

np, ill post more pictures of how the contour fans are mounted. today, I decided to adjust the temp via app again as I wanted both fans to be on as it was really hot today. first fan - 180 on | 177 off second fan - 185 on | 180 off Both fans were on and pulling alot of air, temps were between 180-185. didn't go over 185. this is a win and happy with it.

before I went with dakota digital RTX gauges, I had a stand alone tach that was mounted on to the steering column, I never had any issues.

Alright, update! Finally got my Contour Fan Installed and running. it was a fairly hot day (80 degrees) and engine temps were going from 185-190, seemed the single fan was able to keep down temps as the 2nd fan never kicked off. I used Dakota digital fan relay, PAC-2800BT since I have the RTX Series and give it a cleaner look and less wiring. I used 2 x 70 amp relays from DD. after looking around old threads for mounting ideas, I decided to go with an L Bracket to mount the dual fan. we had to trim the original mounts but otherwise, the installation was a breeze and fit like a glove. I ran diagnostics to check sensors and ran Test Mode via the app and I was able to trigger low and high fans and now the drive, the real test! The single fan was able to kick off with no problem during my drive, with the DD Accessories App, I was able to set up my low & high Temps for both fans. Low would kick off around 188, and close at 185. the second fan, would turn on around 190 and turn off at 188. The single fan was working great, didn't seem to struggle, and definitely could feel it was pulling a lot of air. Today was hot and humid, so engine temps did go up slightly and hit 190 but didn't hear the second fan kick-off, most likely when I drove, the air would make the temps go down since I'm moving in stop-and-go traffic but didn't see it rise above 190. The question I have is would you recommend if I should have both fans going on at the same time or should I have one running and the other kick-off when it gets over 190? This is the first time playing with the setup. Overall, happy with the conversion.

Thanks Buening! good info here. has anyone used a Nissan Pwm fan controller in their electric fan install, or would that be fore EFI models? I've read this is a popular swap on 79-93 Mustangs, to keep the Amps down and does a soft start and doesn't spike like most fan controllers. Currently have the Dakota Digital blue tooth Fan relay that Im going to install since its less wiring connecting to my BIM Controller, but not sure if this helps prevent spikes when the fan switches on.

go with 3:50's, I have him them on my 69 with a 408w and a tko600 with 64 OD. at 65mph Im slightly around 1800-2k rpm. putting down 460rwhp with 470rwtq, plenty of of power with the 3:50s and OD makes it all quiet and enjoyable.

might be something to think about, But Im putting down 460 rwhp 475rwtq in my 408w and i have a TKO600 with .064 and 3:50's at 65 mph, Im around 2k.

depends how far off the shift hole is and if you can reach all bolts. you could potentially do it from the cabin, however if you are unable to reach all of the bolts, you may need to unbolt trans mount and drop the transmission slightly so you can free up space, but make sure you have a jack under the transmission so it doesn't touch the ground. Best,

looking good so far, the marquis wheels make it look better than those fleamarket looking wheels. I would only upgrade to larger 17 or 18" wheels if I was doing a large brake upgrade, like I did. what wheels did you order?

Hey yall Going with a reproduction Dual Contour Fan from Late model restoration (LMR.com) and using a Dakota Digital Fan controller w/ bluetooth, since I have the RTX gauges. I also have a Tuff Stuff 1g wire 130 amp alternator. Was wondering what you guys did to mount the fan to the 24" Aluminum radiator? did you make custom L brackets or make any custom brackets to accommodate the stock mounting location of the fan? used any some type of rubber strip between the radiator and fan? (if so, do you know the p/n?) any suggestions any photos would be greatly appreciated! Thank you

Hello All, Testing waters to see if there are any potential buyers. figure I give this site dibs before going on FB/Craigslist/Cal-fords forums. Engine Details: 351w built as a 408w stroker with less than a 1000 miles built by Gromm Racing, San Jose, CA I have the Engine Build sheet and Dyno sheet and video from Gromm Racing. The engine is for sale but it is currently installed in my 69 mustang and was recently dyno'd & tuned on 5/6/22 by DeLeon Dyno performance in Santa Clara, CA. Engine dyno HP/TQ Numbers from Gromm Racing: 522hp 6300rpm and 544tq 4100rpm (video upon request) The Car was recently Dynod and tuned by Deleon Dyno Performance: 460brwhp 6100rpm and 475brwtq at 4125 on 91 pump gas (this is with a TKO with 3:50 gears. I have video & dyno sheet) The reason for selling is I'm going with a 4bolt main 427w stroker from prestige motors, Im selling this from carb to pan, the only thing that will not be included is the clutch/headers/starter/Belt Drive System and water pump. Please note - I will not part out as a long block or short block, the engine is 3 weeks old, less than 1000 miles, and waited roughly a year and 3 months to get this engine built. the engine will be removed by Mustang Fever, in Santa Clara, you can pick up the motor once my new engine arrives at his shop and payment is paid in full, We can coordinate on this. Can provide a full detailed Build Sheet and dyno videos on request. 408w Long block details: Stock OE 351w bored .40 over Scat Forge Crank/rods JE Pistons Melling oil pump DSS Girdle Custom Grind Comp Hyd roller Camshaft 632 lift. Morel Lifters and custom pushrods CompCams 1.6 Ultra Pro Magnums AFR 205 58cc heads custom Timing pointer Arp Hardware. Compression is 10:8 Accessories (these parts are not new, they were used when I had my old 393 stroker) 750 Holley Carb was built for choke setup but the electric choke was removed. Ready to run Summit Dizzy (vacuum is locked out) stealth Weind intake dual plane (The divider in the intake was removed to make it into a single plane intake) Canton 7qt Pan Black Ford Racing Valve Covers The engine has the potential to hit 600hp plus with a better intake and headers. I will only sell in the bay area, and will not ship out of state or deliver to your door that's too risky and probably would cost more. I don't have a truck, unfortunately. this is a great engine for someone who is not willing to wait on lead times from other builders. Happy to meet at local cars and coffee or on Bay Area Cruise night in July. My new engine is almost done so starting to advertise this one to whoever is interested. as all things are being sold here, this is being sold as-is. Asking 12,000. also willing to throw in a 10k used late model c4, but you'll need a shift kit and better TQ converter if you want to run it.

Good Info @fvike, thanks for sharing I may need to consider a bulk head fitting to give it a cleaner look and hide the the lines.

@fvike which setup did you go with the GM or Ford Cast Iron unit? can you post a photos of your install and how your lines are routed? I was thinking of TCP rack n pinion myself, but thats up in the air aswell.

Hello All I wanted your input on hydratechbraking, Has anyone ever used them? I wanted to eliminate the vac booster as my cam has taken all of the vacuum from the booster, so it's a freight train when stopping...almost reminded me of when I had drums and it was manual brakes... wanted your input on this conversion or brand, also did any of you who did the conversion add an oil cooler to prevent foaming with heavy use? current setup 351w w/ 1 5/8 headman headers MDL 5 speed conversion w/ ext clutch slave stock power steering ram with a drop bracket running a 5.0L Serpentine power steering pump.

Very nice, @Len69Coupe congrats on the completion. Hoping to get mine back on the road again. awaiting an engine to be delivered.

Hi @LindenBruce, if the other seller isn't interested, feel free to reach out to me, happy to take a look as Im in the market for a project. Im based in the bay area.

Ridge, sad you had to sell the collection, I should jumped on that 69 fb you had. are you still making parts or is that on the back burner?

Congrats! this is definitely on my to do list in the future.

I would disconnect the throttle base plate and see if you can soak it in WD40 or some type of safe lubrication fluid that wouldn't damage the seals, parts.

should be the small ones though this link Im sharing is for fastback, I think they should be the same: https://www.npdlink.com/product/mounting-kit-rear-window-molding/211631?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dwindow%2Bclip%26top_parent%3D200001%26year%3D1969&year=1969