rwcstang

They should have been the same color, not sure where you ordered it from, but I would reach out and see if they can exchange it for the correct color.

ah I see, I bought my TKX through Tremec/summitracing, so I dont have that feature and have the Basic Tremec Shifter.

Good to know, I have their MDL shifter on my current TKO600, it moves the shifter 1" back, its not bad, never had an issue with it, but thats alot of money to fork out. I was thinking of making an 1" adapter plate or bracket to move the shifter back like MDL and utlizie the stock TKX shifter or purchase something like this from ebay:https://www.ebay.com/itm/225285115663 looks like Lokar is jumping on this aswell: https://inthegaragemedia.com/lokar-performance-axishift/ Let us know how the rubber trans mount mod works, definitely following your thread.

Thanks for info and pics, this helps alot, I will eventually swap out my TKO600 to a TKX in the coming months, so I'm wondering if my old MDL TKO mount will be the same or if I should buy the mount you have. ill need to give them a call later on to confirm. As for the shifter location, mine slightly does this with the TKO, I think the only way to correct this is to either modify the transmission hole and relocate slightly, or like you mentioned drill holes in the mount for side way adaptability and possibly get some custom motor mounts that are adjustable aswell, maybe someone will chime in that has the same issue.

hard to tell, but I would look at various photos of side photos of 69 Gt350 verts to get an idea, maybe 1 1/2 - 2" from the B pillar and start from there.

Odd, the TKO600 and TKX should be the exactly the same other than a few take aways. Maybe this Low Profile mount requires you to modify the tunnel and you need the standard version? Hopefully MDL sends you another mount

Any scoop will not match the holes, they prolly ment the bolts will match to the original Gt350 vert holes. you can also use a dremel too to open the mouth more, I also recommend getting a screen made so rocks or debris wont get lodged in there. Also, cobranda has the ducts to make the scoops functional, Cobranda I bought a set, it was the only place that had it in stock (kinda pricey) but worth it. if those scoops give you trouble, @Ridge Runner can possibly make one for ya, he did a set for me, its the closest you'll ever get to actual side scoops that shelby offered to the gt350s verts, and they are not fiberglass. Im learning Cad and 3d Printing, my first challenge is to create & 3D print some side scoops which would be the better quality. eventually make a 3d fish tail like the shelby de mexico and/or camaro wing that will bolt on or add double sided tape the trunk panel.

@Flanders Thanks for the comparison, I gotta see if mine is the standard or low profile one when i did the TKO install a few years back. Im running the stock rubber mount that MDL sent me, it should clear your exhaust unless you have it riding up against the floor boards.

totally tagged the wrong person.

@Ridge Runner tagged the wrong guy! my bad! @Flanders do you know which MDL mount you have? I believe they sell two, the low profile and standard one. I recently bought a TKX, assuming my tko mount is standard and the same as the TKX mount, wondering if I should also purchase the low profile one aswell, looking forward to hows your fits!

yeah, Im going to drop it some to 4 degrees and adjust the 3link to match the trans, originally with the MDL mount it sat at 4.5, at 3.5 degrees the TKO is rubbing against the trans tunnel and making a squeaking/metal rubbing sound and driving me nuts as it comes and goes I do have a TKX to install but later on, and since the TKX and TKO600 are the same and one is smaller, I can probably go back down to 3.5-3 degrees with out touching the tunnel, they use the same mounting hardware. but going to try to adjust with the TKO as I need to keep testing this suspension and brake in the new 3rd member. excuse the drawing but assuming its going to look like this after I adjust it, the other option is to raise the car and adjust the coilovers and have the 3rd link/pinion get closer in balance with the transmission. does that make sense?

Thanks, I spoke with Shaun and he recommended the same thing, I mentioned to him that my 3rd member sits slightly higher than the shimmed transmission mount, he still said to put the angles the same, so trans down, adjust the 3link pinion up, so Im going to take a few shims away and let it sit at 4 degrees down and raise the pinion angle to 3.5-4 and see if the clunking while shifting/acceleration improves, it will most likely look like image 3 but reversed.

Hey Guys, hoping you can help me out with something, as I'm a little stuck. my lack of knowledge of pinion angles is none existent and im trying to understand it correctly. Before I start, Im running the following: poly motor mounts and stock rubber trans tko mount from MDL. after reading about how pinion angle works on different sites, the summary is they are supposed to be 3" degrees or less and suppose to cancel each other out under acceleration, however, I think I may get my pinion angle wrong. with the MDL TKO conversion kit w/ their Trans Mount, before adjustment, we measured the trans angle at - 4.5 Degrees down, however, I didn't check the angle of the pinion with the stock axle/leafs, ugh I wish had. we shimmed the MDL trans mount, and the best we got was +3.5 degrees up and transmission was already hitting the top tunnel/shifter hole, also per SOT instructions, we started the 3rd link at 3 degrees up as a baseline and I lowered it 2 degrees down to 1 degree, this was to compensate from the pinion moving up when accelerating, assuming I did this wrong, would someone educate me? should I have done - 3.5 down instead? OR should I have left the TKO Trans mount as is (4.5 degrees down and raised the 3rd pinion angle slightly higher to match the transmission angle, when under acceleration they would cancel each other out or do I have it wrong? still got a lot to learn here, so excuse the ignorance and overthinking. https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/pinion-angle-change?slide=2

got the week off to tackle this, so far its been a crazy experience. Im looking forward to getting this girl back on the road!

its one of my gripes about MDL, they should redesign, or use other resources like malwood as an upgrade, or how you put it, cut the damn thing for you.

I have MDL kit TKO600 in my 69 coupe, never had an issue of what you described, we didn't have to notch or use a BFH to get the transmission to fit. the TKO didn't have the modified covers that I have seen in most installs, had the stock covers and didn't rub, I am using the "stock" poly type motor mounts. wondering if maybe the kit they supplied was a defect. Only complaints I had was their shifter 1" adapter, the supplied serrated nut kept loosening and I would have to keep re-tightening it, eventually added a washer and never had that issue again. the other issue was the overpriced external hydraulic slave that bolts to the bellhousing, the bracket was nice, but could be made with a thicker grade steel, the the slave it self is $12 - $20 at any local auto parts store (early 80's nissan or toyota truck), MDL resells them at $100+ which I think is insane. I had their clutch, but only lasted a year as the pressure plate failed, I dug deeper and the clutch kits are made overseas, not a bad company who makes them but to say they do all their clutches inhouse is a lie. Went with Mccleod super street and it has lasted me 5 years and counting.

Thanks, this was something I was considering if I the new OEM was bad qaulity. I ran into another problem which caused the throttle cable to snap in the first place. The gas pedal bracket was missing a bolt against the firewall which was causing the gas pedal to move around when accelerating which freyed the cable, ha, go figure.. bought a repro bracket, return spring and a bracket from NPD, but the bracket didn't fit my current carb due to the secondary primary pump cover and lever in the way, eventually I was going to mod the bracket and was digging through my storage/tools and found a Lokar throttle cable kit and bracket I bought years ago, past me was thinking of the future. Installed the Lokar kit and it resolved my problem for now. Happy Holidays everyone!

no one has any recommendations, did I stump everyone? either way, I ordered from NPD and bought the ACP Cable, Bracket and spring.

Hello All, had a hiccup this morning, luckily I was at home when this happened. I went to press the gas pedal to start the choke and boom, the gas pedal went to the floor and the cable snapped at the T cylinder at the gas pedal. Does anyone have any recommendations for a replacement and what is the actual length? I believe mine was an aftermarket from oreillys/autozone and I went through different sizes, years back and it was a nightmare. I have 351w with a 750 cfm (4150) brawler carb, OE pedal. The Current Cable is from a ford vehicle, not sure what year, but it was the closest I got when I did this in high school, bracket is an L bracket (mr.gasket) that I had to modify. would anyone have any recommendation on going back to the OE brackets, spring and throttle cable? which brand do you recommend?

Agreed with Det0326, try the manual brakes and go for the 6 piston wilwood offers. a friend has it on his 69 vert/manual brake setup and stops really well.

Anyone running SOT 3 link? just pulled the trigger on it for my coupe to complete the suspension package, and had some questions. Seems Shauns on Vacay but will call Monday, hoping to get an answer from yall over the weekend. Im using his new rear end housing witch requires big bearings, wondering if my ford 9, 28 spline axles will fit in the housing, if so what bearing size/brand should I go with? Ill be posting an install/pics, this is the first time I'm eliminating the rear leafs/shocks so should be fun.

GT or Cobra? I think they are 3/8 in.-24 Thread,

Thank you, all, I started tearing the front part of the interior. Ill take pics of the progress. So far I removed the following: Upper Dash (looks it was an AC on a non AC car) Clock/Gauges/cluser removed, unfortunately, clusters are brittle the moment I touched it just snapped off. :( seems this car was out in the sun to long. Unplugged most of the wiring Removed headliner/visors/ring going to start tearing the lower/mid dash that bolted to the a pillars next weekend, however I want to remove the main harness from the firewall once I remove the lower dash, whats the best way to tackle that? is it simply a plug that clipped on or a rubber grommet? want to save as much as possible so I can send it to midlife for restoration later. also see some surface rust in some areas, going to clean that and use ospho and spray it with a rust inhibitor.

106148 placed an order with NPD, the cowl hood, both front DR/PS floor pans/and toe board need replacement, a pillar on the passenger had weird rust with silicone (most likely someone tried to coat this with silicone as undercoating... which traps moisture (ironic). I used a borescope to look into the inner pillar saw nothing damaged or rust. area of concern right now, is the rear tail panel, looks like there was a minor accident which bent the tail panel and rear trunk brace slightly inward and passenger qtr had some work done but going to cut it open and replace but phase one is to replace and treat the front cowl and floor pans, I also looked under the front and rear frame rails look great and see no warpage or buckling, but going to take measurements using the dimensions I found here. I wanted to paint it Silver Jade, but google pics dont do it justice, so I between Iconic Silver, Magnetic Grey or Rapid Red. Question for those out there, is there a schematic on how to remove the rear flip seat and side panel trim? my coupe was so easy, assuming they are on tabs aswell. also, for these type of FBs, was there rear speakers or only in the front? trying to save everything as much as I can but alot of the plastic has been baked and brittle so trying to remove this carefully.

We'll I got a new project, purchased a 1969 Mach 1. got alot of work to do, but priority is gotta replace the cowl/floor boards first and finally rear trunk brace/tail panel/qtr panel. car been through hell, but 90% of the car is there. will post pics of the progress. had a 351w w/ fmx, all drums, definitely needs alot of TLC, this will be a long project, but the goal is to slightly bring it back to its former glory and go with a original look. paint is super last thing on my mind, so may paint it primer or use a matte color. Original color was Silver Jade, San Jose car and was in LA most of its life.