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rwcstang

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Posts posted by rwcstang

  1. Posted · Report reply

    14 hours ago, Mach1 Driver said:

    I tried to "Like" Ben's post, but that is unfortunately still broken for me. Anyway, I'm happy for the coming changes. With all the bot posts and my anti-virus program telling me the site isn't secure, I was seriously considering not returning to the site.

    its tough for sure, but adding ublock or adblack extension on your browser can help block the pop ups (if any). 

    Glad its moving on to a new server Ben. Let us know if there is anything we can assist with. 

  4. Posted · Report reply

    Took the car to a dyno session a few months back made a few more ponie, defintely alot of torque on the low end (due to the Stealth intake)  

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pc0BdMBcYCE

    Engine Dyno: 

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oa61GsZJFcQ 

    Happy with the results regardless, eventually I want to upgrade to a single plane intake and hit a higher RPM but need to find a nice intake that will fit under the stock hood. 

    Dyno Sheets: 

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  7. Posted · Report reply

    3 hours ago, RPM said:

    Hmm... just realized this site should be up again. If I forgot about it, pretty sure the casual observer is long gone. 

    Even if we pitch in for a Captcha, how would we implement it? Has anyone received a reply from @bswor?  The moderators have limited double secret powers. 

     

    Im not sure if you mods have this contact support access, but the company who supports this domain will have access to implement the security feature, they can provide the service. From searching the history of this site through Google, I found this https://www.wmtips.com/tools/info/1969stang.com maybe the mods can contact the domain company on behalf of bswor, but any final decision will need to be approved by him unless he adds someone as a secondary approver. 

    Data Center - HostDime

    Domain - godaddy.com 

    Seems this site is registered until 2025, and they do offer 3 tiers of security, Im just not sure what tier we have. Assuming we have the standard one, which makes sense as to why we are getting all these posts running the site to the ground. https://www.godaddy.com/web-security/website-security 

    Captcha can be implemented in certain ways, but usually during the first time user account setup or login, the captcha will appear due to a unknown IP it doesn't recognize. 

  8. Posted · Report reply

    4 hours ago, Ridge Runner said:

    Is anyone else getting pop up ads all of a sudden? They take over the whole screen and dont want to click out !

    Screenshot? Is it only on specific browser or when in the Desltop view or your Operating system? run a malware/virus scanner if you are on a PC and check your Chrome/FireFox Extension library hasn't downloaded any suspicious apps. 

    Also, try using ublock orgin (same as adblocker) its much better. 

    if issue persists, you may need to update the cache settings in the app settings. Ublock Orgin Settings>Filter > toggle check box "autoupdate filters" and select update now.

    This has helped me block ads including YT since they are trying to combat these types of apps now. 

     

  10. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks, the FRPP Hoodpins are around $45.00 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fms-m-16700-a so its a great buy compared to the overseas made pins that scott drake sells. 

    I was also thinking flush hood pins with the locks: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/qul-ql-38-lpbp or push-in type https://www.summitracing.com/parts/qul-ql-38-lpbp since Im more in the resto mod category, however, the FRPP seems to be the best one with out cutting too much into the hood. 

    RogerC reacted to this

  11. Posted · Report reply

    Looking for pros n cons here and If I should cut up my current hood and add hood pins, any issues going this route other than a dirty engine bay and cutting into the hood?

    I want my hood scoop functional in the early style piecut look or cut out a section of the hood entirely for more airflow to the air cleaner. In addition, I would add a 14" Round air filter https://www.summitracing.com/parts/knn-66-3040 w/ dropbase. Im currently running https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fms-302-350 w/ 13 k&n Air Filter element which also includes a drop base for more clearance under the hood.

    I dyno'd at 453rwhp 524rwtq with the 13" Drop base Air cleaner. I saw an engine masters episodes testing air cleaners from stock to salad bowl (lol) and data showed air cleaners with a dropped base can restrict airflow where it sucks air from sides then shoot upwards (where it thins out) and back down into the carb/intake, adding a Top Air filter element should solve this as air is now is sucking from the top element and sides causing no restriction. BUT this video counters almost all that https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HWIrIsJSX0U again these are in controlled environments so they are not under a hood/engine bay where all the heat is contained. 

    Im wondering what aftermarket air cleaners you are running under your 351w with stealth and 750 (brawler/holley carbs) under your functional scoops, are you using drop bases? 

    In addition, I'm debating if I should add Ford Racing hood pins to keep the hood down from blowing out as I think the undercover innovations radiator support cover I have is bending upwards allowing air to escape at higher highway speeds shaking the hood. One option is using the UC cover as a template and make one out of thicker sheet metal or just simply add some more mounting screws on the existing UC unit. 

    What do you all think? should I go with it?

     

     

     

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  12. Posted · Report reply

    likely cost per license, each.

    if we get 1000 licenses minimum (Assuming $1 each), it would be cheaper than getting let say, 500 Licenses @ 2.99 each, which would cost more, I believe. However, I'm not sure how many user's are signing up on 69stang, since it tends to be a smaller group, I cant see those metrics/trends. 

    The Normal Captcha and Recaptcha v2-3 is the most commonly used in most forums. 

    The site owner/web devs would know if this forum is capable of adding security options like Captcha. 

  13. Posted · Report reply

    6 hours ago, Vicfreg said:

    Thanks to all who got the site up and running again.  This is a great group and we need to find a way to keep it going.

    Every time the site goes out, I feel like we just got kicked out of the Fraternity house and have no where else to go....

    I hate being on Double Secret Probation...

    https://youtu.be/1tfK_3XK4CI?si=mbh_qhTDTzUe1CUa

     

     

    Animal House is one of absolute favorite movies! 

    As much as I like VMF, 69stang is my true home. 

    RPM and Mike65 reacted to this

  15. Posted · Report reply

    Hey @Flanders sorry to hear you didn't get it resolved.

    do you have your original shocks on hand or possibly purchase some KYB gas or bilsteins (soft setting)? maybe swapping them to eliminate the shock or leaf?

    Another option is to call Qa1 to see what they can do for you, maybe the shocks can be serviced or checked for inspection if under warranty.

     

     

  18. Posted · Report reply

    6 hours ago, Mach1 Driver said:

    These kits you are contemplating are from aftermarket manufacturers. Much of it will not fit without problems. The further you venture from a stock 69, they more problems you will encounter. Also, Ford build parts from newer models will not just drop-in and operate trouble free- they weren't designed for your car. You see a number of Coyote Mustangs for sale, and I believe it is because they are not satisfied with the end result. You end up with odd combinations that just don't work well together.

    Per Mac1Driver comment this is very true to an extent, I never did engine swaps using the newer motors but I have use their brakes.

    I had vintage venoms brake kit (much like mustangsteve.com) it utilizes brakes from new mustangs (i.e Cobra's, GT), the only difference is I had to use modern wheels with spacers included in the brake kit. Unfortunately you'll need to use 17" or larger wheel and change some braking hardware.

    But once everything is sorted out, you could buy replacement parts from the local autopart stores (i.e brake pads, caliper replacements or hose replacements) if you decide to go back to OE  this will be costly, as you have to revert everything back to OE setup.

    if you want a true daily with good brakes and retain your current wheel tire setup, go with Chockostangclassicmustang.com or opentracker.net Kelsey hayes front disk brake swap, its more than enough that older race cars that used this setup combined with large lincoln drums in the rear.

    Shocks and suspension parts will also play in regards to comfort and driveability, Id stay away from Mustang II crap as they are not great, if you find one that uses corvette suspension then thats even better but thats alot of modifying and money I can use to put in somewhere.

    I use Street or Track's Coilover front suspension which use the stock shock towers but changes the whole dynamic of the front suspension which is a night a day difference, I have their front and rear coilover kit, but just the front kit alone is worth the money.

    I say with a SOT front coilover conversion with some Kelsey Hayes brake set up will do wonders for you car.

     

  22. Posted · Report reply

    no, I don't think that would be a problem, unless you had a mechanical fan with shroud.

    I also see you have a grill cover to help redirect air to the radiator which helps a ton!

    I have a Dual Contour Fan with out AC setup but the fitment is some what close to yours. it could be either Alternator not producing enough amps for your e-fans or could be your e-fans are fubar and not pulling enough.

    most cars that are fully loaded with modern electronics, including Dual E-fans and AC will use 140-200 amp alternators. Im not sure what brand fan controller/relay you are using, did you configure the fans to turn at at a certain temp? if you didnt do that, it will use the default setup.

    I have the Dakota Digital Fan controller and relay kit and I can set temps via phone. My single fan will turn on at 195 and turn off at 185, second fan will turn on at 210, off at 200 and fans will shutdown when Im going 50 mph to let air through the fans.

     

     

  23. Posted · Report reply

    When you say overheating, can you describe in more detail?

    • is it boiling, spewing out coolant?
    • Replaced the Radiator Cap?
    • does it over heat with the AC on or Off or all the time at idle?
    • have you confirmed what are the actual temps are at idle? 195-220 should be normal operating temperature. fluctuating temp is fine, its going through heat cycles.
    • Re-Check Timing? does it detonate, ping?
    • you most likely need more CFM to pull-in Air at idle. Are both fans on at the same time or do you have them timed separately?
    • have you checked amperage on the fans? if you are riding a stock alternator, it may be the fans are not getting enough Juice to pull the correct amount of CFM.
      • I have the aftermarket Dual Contour fan on my 427w stroker but I use a 140amp 1 wire alternator. maybe Converting your stock alternator to a 3g 140+ amp may help. 

  25. Posted · Report reply

    Picked up an aftermarket bumper from NPD and sat for months before I tried to install it this past weekend, and man the fitment was terrible, no way to properly adjust it and get it perfect. the outer hole mount bracket would not line up with the inner braket, as the bumper ear hole mounts are too forward while the other was too far back. 

    luckily, going through craigslist, I picked up a set of OE 69 front and rear bumpers from an old chrome plating shop that went out of business. Renee has been in the chrome plating business for over 30+ years and was helping one of her partners sell off their old inventory cores. Most were already worked on, but was pending chrome plating before the biz stopped. 

    also, I found this doc which was informative prior to picking up the bumper, its how to ID Original 69-70 front bumpers to an aftermarket one, which matched to the bumper I just picked up. 

    Sad to see these type of chrome plating/repair shops go out of the business... I wish I could have seen and learned from these old shops, I may have picked up a new skill/trade, lol now I just gotta find a local chrome plating shop. 

    Her Name is Renee, based in San Jose, CA her cell number is (408) 690 3465 | most of the inventory are from the 60/s70s, she gave the green light to share her info for anyone interested and is willing to ship within the US. 

    Craigslist link: https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/pts/d/san-jose-ford-mustang-front-bumper-core/7659256576.html

     

     

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    69_70_front_bumper_id.pdf

    RPM reacted to this
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