Midlife

Aha!  All of you are having insecurity problems.  I recommend a psychoanalyst to help with your anxieties and insecurities!

I suspect the problems are related to your browser.  I have no problems using FireFox.

I've had problems with the like button myself. 

It's called "RTFM".

Magnum 500 wheels need to be lug-centric balanced, nut hub centered.  Very few tire places have that capability.
Bad u-joint, incorrect driveshaft to tranny/rear end angles can also cause vibrations.

I guarantee that you'll find them in the last place you look...trust me on this!

That's definitely not stock.

Works for me...I guess I'm special!

Works for me...I guess I'm special!

Yep, broke.

Ding Ding Ding!  Free beer for Mach1 Driver tomorrow!

Ding Ding Ding!  Free beer for Mach1 Driver tomorrow!

Ding Ding Ding!  Free beer for Mach1 Driver tomorrow!

Ding Ding Ding!  Free beer for Mach1 Driver tomorrow!

Ding Ding Ding!  Free beer for Mach1 Driver tomorrow!

oh!  I mistyped when I entered 9/11; I meant to pick 9/21!  Tee Hee!

The prize will be a free month's subscription to the forum!

The prize will be a free month's subscription to the forum!

The more I think about the issue, I believe the ammeter gauges were designed to let one know when either the battery or the alternator completely fails, and not for use during normal driving conditions.  It's intent was to act as a gauge equivalent to the alternator indicator lamp: if it deflects, it means something is dreadfully wrong.

I don't know the length off the top of my head.  Each year seems to be different as well. 
This whole problem does not seem to have an easy solution at all.  Basically, one is measuring the difference in voltage across an approximately 2-3 foot section of #12 or #10 gauge wire, whose resistance is on the order of 0.05 ohms or so.  Corrosion at contact points are well above this level.  Unfortunately, this is not a precision system.  Attempts to make the ammeter respond in a more aggressive manner by adding extra length wires between alternator and battery (starter solenoid) is asking for reliability degradation as well. 

I don't know the length off the top of my head.  Each year seems to be different as well. 
This whole problem does not seem to have an easy solution at all.  Basically, one is measuring the difference in voltage across an approximately 2-3 foot section of #12 or #10 gauge wire, whose resistance is on the order of 0.05 ohms or so.  Corrosion at contact points are well above this level.  Unfortunately, this is not a precision system.  Attempts to make the ammeter respond in a more aggressive manner by adding extra length wires between alternator and battery (starter solenoid) is asking for reliability degradation as well. 

Apparently, a BOT was using enough bandwidth that the system ran out of allotted bandwidth.  The service provider has apparently blocked that from happening again.
But yes, more money paid to the provider would allow more bandwidth to be used per month.

Apparently, a BOT was using enough bandwidth that the system ran out of allotted bandwidth.  The service provider has apparently blocked that from happening again.
But yes, more money paid to the provider would allow more bandwidth to be used per month.

This is what I do for customers who want this modification:
I first cut the pink resistor wire right at the back side of the ignition switch, fold it over on itself and slip a piece of heatshrink on it.
I then cut the pink resistor wire before the firewall grommet (inside of the passenger compartment), fold it over, and heatshrink it.  There are now two folded over pink resistor wire segments before the grommet.
 
I then splice into the green/red wire coming from the ignition switch (same pin as the cut pink wire) and tie it into the brown wire that goes through the firewall grommet.  That brown wire shares the pink resistor wire at the engine gauge feed plug past the grommet that lies in the engine compartment.  Everything will look stock where people can see things.  Take the wire that normally goes to the + side of the coil and use that for either the coil or electronic ignition that requires +12V in the RUN key position.
 
I've also spliced in male/female bullet plugs behind the ignition switch and before the firewall grommet so that one can use either the pink resistor wire or the bypass wire.
 
Don't bother trying to completely remove the pink resistor wire, as it is embedded deeply into the underdash harness, requiring removal of a lot of tape and then taping things back up. 
Hope this helps.

Well, this isn't the first time I would be wrong...