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Midlife

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  1. Like
    Midlife got a reaction from KMD88 in Wiring - A Good Project?   
    Awww shucks.  Thank you!
  2. Like
    Midlife got a reaction from capemustang in Im in need of some help!   
    A common problem with 69/70 dash clusters is that the gauges (except ammeter) don't work.  The reason is that one of the various posts of the gauges is touching the metal housing, which basically shorts all of the gauges.  This often happens when one replaces the circuit card.  To solve, take the dash out and loosen the 2 bolts for one of the gauges and re-set the gauge in the housing and re-tighten the bolts.  If you have a multimeter, measure the resistance between any one of the posts and the metal housing of the dash cluster.  If you see 1 or 14 ohms, then one of the bolts is touching.  You will spend a fair amount of time re-setting the gauges until you get a reading of kilo- or mega-ohms: that is the reading you want.
    You can't see the issue, as the view is obstructed by the circuit card and the cardboard insulation pad underneath the bolt nuts.
  3. Like
    Midlife got a reaction from KMD88 in Mentorships and where to find them?   
    Idle is waaaay too high.  Should be somewhere around 800 rpm; 1600 when cold.
  4. Like
    Midlife got a reaction from Mach1 Driver in Mystery Power Outage   
    While the engine is running, the only thing the starter solenoid does is provide a connection point between the main harness, battery, and alternator via the large post on the side.  I don't think the starter solenoid is your problem, unless the connection is loose. 
  5. Like
    Midlife got a reaction from det0326 in 69 8" Ring & Pinion   
    The 8.8 rear end is an entirely different design than the vintage Ford rear that came with first generation Mustangs.  I believe the 8.8 was introduced sometime in the late 70's or early 80's.  It is not at all compatible with the earlier 8" or 9" design.
  6. Like
    Midlife got a reaction from Mountaineerfan in Mystery Power Outage   
    Sounds like something going on at the fuse box, as radio, backup lights, and blower motor/AC are powered by ACC and fused by 2 fuses.  Might be a bad ignition switch or bad/nearly broken wire for ACC at fuse box.  Usually, it is the BAT line that breaks, not the ACC line.  Something is going on that when more power is pulled through those lines, continuity is lost due to higher resistance.  I'd check your fuse clips first.
  7. Like
    Midlife got a reaction from JayEstes in Mystery Power Outage   
    Sounds like something going on at the fuse box, as radio, backup lights, and blower motor/AC are powered by ACC and fused by 2 fuses.  Might be a bad ignition switch or bad/nearly broken wire for ACC at fuse box.  Usually, it is the BAT line that breaks, not the ACC line.  Something is going on that when more power is pulled through those lines, continuity is lost due to higher resistance.  I'd check your fuse clips first.
  8. Like
    Midlife got a reaction from Rich Ackermann in Quick dash ground/voltage regulator question   
    Nope: when you replace the circuit board, you have to loosen the nuts holding the various gauges.  The posts can easily contact the metal housing when reinstalling and tightening the nuts, shorting out the CVR output  and the gauges will not work.  This is a chronic problem for 69/70 dash clusters.  The cheapest solution is to remove the circuit card and place black electrical tape over the rectangular cutout sides so that the posts won't contact the metal housing.  Re-install the cardboard insulation pad, the circuit card, and tighten the nuts. 
    As a check, you can measure the resistance between each post and the housing metal.  If you see 1 to 14 ohms, one of the gauges is shorting out, causing the others to short out too.  The ammeter, if shorted, will cause a massive short and because the lines are not fused, can cause a fire.  Bad design by Ford.
  9. Like
    Midlife got a reaction from TexasEd in 1969 Dash Grounding   
    You should be seeing 1 ohm or less between chassis ground and the battery ground.  Anything more than that, and you'll begin to have problems.  Ask me how I know...
    OK...I'll tell you.  My wife is trying to put me 6 feet underground so I can test continuity to ground...I'm trying to convince her that a copper or steel red/pipe stuck in the ground is just as good but she's not having any of that...
  10. Like
    Midlife got a reaction from TexasEd in Quick dash ground/voltage regulator question   
    Nope: when you replace the circuit board, you have to loosen the nuts holding the various gauges.  The posts can easily contact the metal housing when reinstalling and tightening the nuts, shorting out the CVR output  and the gauges will not work.  This is a chronic problem for 69/70 dash clusters.  The cheapest solution is to remove the circuit card and place black electrical tape over the rectangular cutout sides so that the posts won't contact the metal housing.  Re-install the cardboard insulation pad, the circuit card, and tighten the nuts. 
    As a check, you can measure the resistance between each post and the housing metal.  If you see 1 to 14 ohms, one of the gauges is shorting out, causing the others to short out too.  The ammeter, if shorted, will cause a massive short and because the lines are not fused, can cause a fire.  Bad design by Ford.
  11. Like
    Midlife got a reaction from 69RavenConv in New shock tower is not perfect   
    Use an export brace to ensure the upper structures of the shock tower are in alignment.
  12. Like
    Midlife got a reaction from RPM in New shock tower is not perfect   
    Use an export brace to ensure the upper structures of the shock tower are in alignment.
  13. Thanks
    Midlife reacted to aslanefe in More Factory AC Wiring Questions :)   
    On my 69 with factory air, the green wire to compressor is molded as part of the bundle where NSS and wiper motor wires come out, about 2 inches inboard of the gas pedal cable.
  14. Haha
    Midlife reacted to RPM in Missing my 1935 Ford pick up .   
    That's Jenny's CC number. I've got her info saved. 

  15. Haha
    Midlife got a reaction from RPM in Missing my 1935 Ford pick up .   
    Damn.  If I had your money, I'd throw mine away!
  16. Like
    Midlife got a reaction from Grabber70Mach in Dakota Digital Install   
    1970 Standard Dash Cluster Wiring:
     
  17. Like
    Midlife got a reaction from RPM in Ideas for adding tach to non-tach car?   
    You pretty much have nailed it.  Easiest, cheapest option is a stand-alone tach.  Would run $60-100.
    Aftermarket dash clusters are certainly not plug-n-play, fairly expensive, then add in your labor (or someone else's) to wire it and you're looking an $800+ easy.
    There's some jerk named Midlife that can convert underdash harnesses to tach compatible.  But...you'll first need to find a factory tach dash.  Those now run $1000-1500 in good shape.  Add in wiring changes for everything forward of the tail-light and you're looking at another $3-400.
    Final option is to sell your car and find another one that already has a tach.  Downside is that you now have a new set of unknown issues to fix...
  18. Like
    Midlife got a reaction from stangs-R-me in Boss 9 Tribute   
    I like the gloves on the front of the frame rails: looks like they want to grab a beer or two...
  19. Haha
    Midlife got a reaction from Caseyrhe in speed ometer stopped working   
    With all that spaghetti, be still my heart! 
  20. Haha
    Midlife got a reaction from Caseyrhe in speed ometer stopped working   
    Damnit.  I could have retired trying to fix that mess!
  21. Haha
    Midlife got a reaction from RPM in speed ometer stopped working   
    Damnit.  I could have retired trying to fix that mess!
  22. Haha
    Midlife reacted to RPM in MSD ignition box   
    You do know that MSD stands for my spark disappeared, right? Although I've never had one, and many people love them. 
  23. Haha
    Midlife got a reaction from Caseyrhe in New Ride/Project   
    I wouldn't spend a dollar for any of those three guys: they simply aren't worth restoring at all!!!
  24. Thanks
    Midlife got a reaction from rr03cobra in backup light assembly/dome light   
    No good (concours correct) lamp sockets are available.  Be careful to find an aftermarket one with the proper diameter and length of metal before and after it snaps in place.
  25. Like
    Midlife got a reaction from capemustang in Wiring diagram? Or just rewire the entire car?   
    One other thing about most of the aftermarket wiring kits: they are basically designed for *gasp* GM products, so you'll need to cut off your Ford connectors and splice into the pigtails.
    What you're looking for is more aligned with what I do: give you a factory correct set of wiring, all plug-n-play, with a 2 year warranty.  From there, you can modify things for 1 wire alternators, etc., as you see fit.
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