Midlife

Those pins are available from Newark and Digikey for a few cents each if you buy 100 at a time. You need a special tool to crimp both the wire and the insulation (for strain relief) simultaneously.

Sellerrodshop wants to blame his shed burning down on me...I swear, I was with someone else's wife at the time! *G*

On a 69, the resistor wire runs directly from the ignition switch to the molded plug beyond the firewall. I've seen an instance where a customer used an aftermarket (Mallory?) ignition system and fried a small pigtail of the resistor wire which was bypassed for full 12V. In this case, the coil was designed to not have a resistor wire (makes sense...but...). Because you cannot get inside the guts of the molded connector, a short pigtail is left for you to splice in a regular wire. However, the system feeds back large voltage spikes everytime the coil fires and the remaining resistor wire has to take up that voltage spike and drop it back down to 12V. After time, the resistor wire heats up and burns/fries. I now advise all to use an ignition system that accepts a resistor wire or bypass the resistor wire completely: I do not splice into the resistor wire at all. Just my experience with over 250 harnesses...

Apparently, many of you here know of me, because I keep getting referrals for wiring harness refurbishments. I'm not here to hawk my products, but I can answer almost any electrical question these old beasts have. I may even have some of my own questions for you from time to time. At any rate, I'm Midlife, aka Randy Jacobson, owner of Midlife Harness Restorations. The '69 model is the most popular harness to work on, accounting for 35% of all vintage Mustang years. Number 2 year in popularity is the 1970. I figured I might as well join the forum specializing in the most popular year Mustang, eh? Randy http://midlife66.com/harnesses