Midlife

I'd sell you one at half that price but I need to keep all of the good ones I have for customers who have damaged their switches. Those switches were used for Mustangs only in 68 and 69. Doesn't Motorcraft still make that switch?

Isn't there a vacuum line to the transmission? I wonder if that may be the cause of the problem...

Yup...tie the two wires together (electrically, that is...).

Most puzzling, since there is really nothing in common between the tach itself and the headlight switch with the sole exception of the tach lamp which is controlled by the dash lamps. That's a separate circuit from the tach itself, which does not require a ground wire.

Standard colors are: green (brake signal) yellow (horn power) blue/yellow (horn output) white/red (e-flasher input) blue (flasher input) green/white (LH turn signal) white/blue (RH turn signal) orange/blue (RH rear turn signal) green/orange (LH rear turn signal) - might match your green/brown That leaves violet, one of the yellows, and brown.

If it reads full with 20 gallons of gas, does it come down reasonably quickly as you use the gas, or does it stay up there for a few gallons? If the latter situation, bending the float won't help much. If the former, the sending unit may be faulty (open circuit at halfthrow). It sounds like the gauge and the sending unit might be incompatible.

A lot of aftermarket sending units and gauges don't match one another for expected signals. If you are using Ford products, then they all should work. It is possible that the new gas float has a pin-hole in it...worth checking out. Does it read full when you have 20 gallons in it?

I just went through this on a 68. The repro turn signal switches are not Mustang specific, so other cars use all 12 wires. One extra wire is red and it should have a pin on the end: just plug it into the hole that matches the empty socket on the main harness connector. The other two wires may be related to the tilt system, but all of my schematics say no. They should have ends covered in plastic---if so, just leave them alone. Match the other wires color for color and you can't go wrong.

Best way to clean fuse clips is to remove the entire harness out of the car, place it in a seal-able bag except for the fuse box, remove the fuses, and put it in a sand blasting cabinet. Blow air on it afterwards and apply dielectric grease to all metal contacts.

You sure you are measuring TDC on the right piston? It should be the forward-most one on the passenger side (unless you are in Australia...).

Thanks for the reference. Usually when a customer starts talking modifications (other than a radio), I usually advise them to look towards aftermarket wiring kits. While I refurbish (and sell) stock harnesses, I can't add modifications because I don't know the length of wires needed for many of them. Since the original poster talked about using an XR7 harness if the first place, I can state with experience that modifying that to fit a Mustang is not trivial. If the OP wants something to run reliably, I would recommend a good refurbished stock harness that is compatible with the Ford tach dash for a lot less money than aftermarket. In addition, I provide a 2 year no questions asked warranty. Aftermarket kits don't have any warranties. Food for thought...

These are available at NAPA and other stores, but if you can't find them, let me know. I've seen both 194 and twist-type styles for side marker lamps.

What was it? Curious minds want to know.

I believe what you are experiencing is hydraulic forcing of the output shaft by the input shaft turning in the tranny, but they are not actually physically engaged. This only happens when the car is running in neutral on a lift (wheels off of the ground). You can stop the wheel rotation with your hand. This condition is perfectly normal.

Corrosion is definitely a problem with soldering if you do not clean the flux off of the joint when you are done. Once clean, however, the solder joint is good.

That unit looks a bit of overkill; you'll only need the ratcheting crimper and one of the dies. I bought mine for something like $50.

I've found that trying to cut two overlapping pieces of metal with a thin blade just doesn't work well, due to the width of the cut (kerf). The thinnest blade around is for the dremel, and even that can be too wide to be able to butt weld correctly. I've found the best way is to cut the original metal first, then start cutting the new metal, leaving a good 1/8 to 1/4" extra. Then take a grinding wheel and grind down the extra metal until you get a good fit. Unfortunately, you have to work this several times, working on about 1/2-1" sections. Eventually, you will get a perfect fit. Then use welding magnets or clamps to keep everything aligned and start tack welding.

Huh? That's definitely not stock. For both 69 and 70 (you didn't say what year), a gauge harness has the oil, coil, and water temperature signals. For 69, the alternator signals go through the headlight harness, attaching to a three or four prong plug that joins to the alternator harness. For 70, the alternator signals go with the main underdash harness out towards the starter solenoid, and joins up with the alternator with a blue two prong plug.

Check the upper left most fuse: horizontal and should be a 20 amp fuse.

All good points. One item not mentioned: a bad turn signal switch under the steering wheel can cause the turn signals not to work.

Got it...I'll let you know by Saturday.

I may have that wire. Some of the tail-lights I've refurbished do not come with that wire, but some do. Send me an e-mail at harnesses at fusemail.com. Price would probably be $10 plus $2 shipping.

Yes...way too high. $3k at most.

If the motor runs, I'd pay $4-500 at most if it didn't smoke. If the motor didn't run, only $200. It's a damn core in the condition it is in. You'd have to pay at leas $3500 to have the engine rebuilt. No way is it worth $6k.

No, green/red is left side turn signal, you should be looking for a green/yellow female bullet plug.